ʻO Totolapa, San Lucas a me ka punawai Pinola ʻekolu mau wahi e hōʻike ana i ka waiwai o kēia wahi wela
ʻO kahi huakaʻi wikiwiki o 70 km ma ke ala keleawe e lawe iā mākou i ke kulanakauhale kahiko o El Zapotal, i kēia lā i kapa ʻia ʻo San Lucas, aia ma 700 mika ma luna o ke kai, ma waena o nā awāwa ʻo Grijalva a me nā kuahiwi o nā kuahiwi ʻo Chiapas.
Me ke aniau ʻoluʻolu a nani hoʻi, ke kaona o San Lucas, mai ka wā ma mua o ka Hispanic, kekahi o nā māla hua nui nui loa o ka ʻāina, a ua hoʻopaʻapaʻa ʻia ka mahi ʻana e ka ʻōiwi Chiapas a me Zinacantecos. Aia nō kahi ʻāpana o kēia māla a ʻo kāna hana ʻana i kēia manawa kahi kumu waiwai nui no ke kaona, bapetizo ʻia hoʻi ma ke ʻano ʻo El Zapotal ma muli o ka nui o nā kumulāʻau sapote kenekulia e mālama ʻia ma laila.
Ua ʻike ʻia ʻo Saint Luke i ka mōʻaukala i ka makahiki 1744, i ka moʻolelo o Bishop Fray Manuel de Vargas y Ribera. Ma ʻApelila 19 o kēlā makahiki ua hōʻeha ʻia kahi ahi weliweli, a e like me ka moʻolelo i hoʻokumu ʻia e nā ʻōiwi ponoʻī e kūʻē i ka hana a nā kāhuna a me nā mea ʻona i hoʻokau ʻia ai lākou.
I kēia lā ʻo San Lucas kahi kūlanakauhale liʻiliʻi o ka lepo a me nā pōhaku ʻaʻole i ʻoi aku ma mua o 5,000 mau kamaʻāina. ʻO kāna mau wahine, nā moʻopuna a Tzotziles a me Chiapas, ʻike ʻia e kā lāua mau mantillas keʻokeʻo, nā ʻāpana ʻelua ʻāpana a me nā lole ʻulaʻula nani; He mea maʻamau ka ʻike ʻana iā lākou e hāpai ana i nā mea nui ma luna o ko lākou mau poʻo a hāpai i nā pēpē - aloha aku nā pichisles iā lākou - wahī ʻia i nā ʻāpana ma ko lākou kua a i ʻole nā pūhaka, me ka nalo ʻole o ka lokomaikaʻi a me ke kaulike.
Ma ke komohana o ke kaona, e hala ana i nā koena o ka māla mua o ka Hispanic, aia kekahi o nā mea hoihoi nui o ke kaona: ka wailele ʻo San Lucas, kahi i ʻike ʻia e kekahi poʻe mahiʻai ʻo El Chorro. I hiki i ka wailele, pono ʻoe e hele i ka muliwai, i ke komohana o ke kūlanakauhale, a hele ma waena o nā kahawai haiki kahi e hāʻule ai ka wai. ʻO ka hele wāwae ʻana he huakaʻi ʻoluʻolu a ʻoluʻolu hoʻi. Piʻi nā keiki a me nā wahine i ke kauhale i piha i nā bākeke o nā hua a me nā nīʻau i kapa ʻia ʻo shutis. ʻO ka wailele ʻo San Lucas e heʻe ana ma kahi o iwakālua mau mika, e kūkulu ana i nā loko wai liʻiliʻi i loko o kahi moe. E kiʻi i kona kumu pono ʻoe e holomua i ke kahawai, ma waena o nā paia kahi e kau ai nā mea kanu i lalo.
ʻO ka holoholo ʻana ma kapa o ka muliwai i hulilulu ʻia e nā lau junipers, a komo i loko o ka intricacies o ka māla ʻeleʻele a hoʻomaha i ka ʻūhā o El Chorro, ʻo ia nā kumu kala maikaʻi loa e kipa aku ai iā San Lucas a ʻōlelo maikaʻi i kēia wahi me ka ukana maikaʻi o nā hua Miko maoli. Inā makemake ʻoe e hele i Zapotal kahiko, e haʻalele iā Tuxtla Gutiérrez ma ke alaloa ākea a ma ke alo o Chiapa de Corzo ka hoʻololi i hele aʻe ma o Acala a me Chiapilla, lawe iā mākou ma lalo o hoʻokahi hola i kēia kaona poina e ka manawa.
A e hoʻomau i ka wahi a mākou e hele nei i ke kaona ʻo Totolapa.
Haʻalele mākou iā San Lucas ma hope a hoʻi i ka hui o ke alaloa ʻo Acala-Flores Magón. ʻElua mau kilomita i ka hikina ke ala e alakaʻi iā mākou i kekahi o nā kūlanakauhale kahiko loa o ia wahi, ʻo Totolapa, a i ʻole Río de los Pájaros.
ʻO ka aurora o Totolapa e hoʻi i nā manawa ma mua o ka Hispanic. Aia kekahi mau pūnaewele archaeological ma ia wahi, kahi e kū ai nā hale pule ʻelua i hōʻike ʻole ʻia, ʻo ia ʻo Tzementón, "tapir pōhaku", a me Santo Ton, "saint pōhaku", ma Tzotzil. Wahi a ka haku Thomas Lee, no Amber ko lākou ʻāina ʻaʻole wale i nā kaona kokoke akā akā i nā mea kālepa Zapotec a me Mexico.
Totolapa hohola aku i ka piko o ka puʻu i hoʻopuni ʻia e nā awawa, e like me ka hale kiaʻi hiki ʻole ke komo ʻia, pale ʻia e nā paia pōhaku. ʻO nā ala komo i hala nā ala i pohō i waena o nā paia o ka honua a me ka pōhaku e like me ka mea i hana ʻia e ka lima o ke kanaka a ma kahi e hele ai hoʻokahi wale nō i ka manawa. Ua akaka ua koho nā mea hoʻokumu i kēia wahi o ke komo paʻakikī e pale aku iā lākou iho mai nā ʻohana lehulehu i hele ma waena o ka ʻāina, ʻaihue i nā huahana, i kēia hihia i ka amber, a hoʻokauwā i kona poʻe noho, e like me ka makaʻu o Chiapas ma mua.
He kūlanakauhale liʻiliʻi ʻo Totolapa me ka ʻoi iki o 4 mau kānaka, ka hapa nui o ka poʻe mahiʻai. Aia ka wai a me nā hoʻolālā ma nā kapa e hoʻopuni ana i ka puʻu. Ma luna aʻe ka hale o nā hale mauʻu haʻahaʻa, kekahi i hana ʻia i ka lepo a me ka lāʻau a i ʻole adobe, ma o kāna mau puka aniani e ʻike ai, nā alo o nā keiki he nui. ʻO ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, ʻo ia kekahi o nā kūlanakauhale ʻilihune loa ma ia wahi, nele i ka wai ohe a me ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana o ka wai, i loaʻa i nā manawa he nui mai ka hōʻeha ʻana o ka cholera a me ka mālama ʻole i nā hoʻolālā hoʻomohala kūhelu.
Hiki ke ʻike ʻia kahi ʻāpana o ka mōʻaukala o Totolapa i nā paia o ka luakini o San Dionisio, i kāna mau kiʻi i kālai ʻia i ka lāʻau a me nā pōhaku i kālai ʻia o nā hale o Coral.
ʻO nā kuʻuna ʻoi loa o nā Totolapanecos i hōʻike ʻia ma nā ʻoliʻoli ʻo ʻAukake a me ʻOkakopa, ke loaʻa lākou i nā kipa ʻana mai nā luna haipule a me nā kaiāulu o Nicolás Ruiz: nā kāne a me nā wahine e hele wāwae ana i ʻewalu mau liga, me ke keʻa o kā lākou parish i hoʻolauleʻa i ka wahine puʻupaʻa o ka manaʻo a me San Dionisio. Hoʻokipa nā papa hoʻolauleʻa iā lākou me nā hana kūikawā o nā ʻaloʻalo a me nā ʻahaʻaina i hala ʻekolu mau lā.
Ke kipa mākou iā Totolapa e hele mākou i mea e ʻike ai i nā loko wai o Los Chorritos, aia ma 2 km hikina o ke kaona. Ma kahi kaʻa mākou i hele aʻe i ke kaona holoʻokoʻa, e hāhai ana i ke ala hoʻokahi e hiki aku ai i ka hopena o ka pā lōʻihi a haiki hoʻi e kalaunu ana i ka piko o ka puʻu. A laila ke hele wāwae nei ke ala, e iho ana i lalo o kekahi o kēlā mau ala kūlike ʻole e like me nā ʻeleʻele ʻeleʻele i poholo i ka honua. Hoʻopiʻi nā puaʻa no ka mea ʻaʻohe wahi no nā mea hou aʻe ma waena o nā paia kiʻekiʻe o ke ala hāiki. Ke hui ʻelua hui, pono e kali a hoʻi paha kekahi no ka hala ʻana o kekahi. ʻAʻole mākou i ʻike i nā ala like.
Ma lalo mākou e komo i nā kapa o ka muliwai Pachén. Hele mākou ma kekahi o nā kapa wai i kekahi o nā kahawai, a ma kahi mamao iki aku nā loko i piha i nā wai o Los Chorritos. Puka mai kekahi mau ʻāpana aniani he aniani o nā nui like ʻole mai ka paia i uhi ʻia me cañabrava, a hāʻule i loko o kahi loko wai e hōʻike ana nā moena limu i nā leo ʻōmaʻomaʻo a me nā polū, e hilinaʻi ana i ka ʻōlinolino o ka lā. Hohonu ka wai ʻauʻau a ʻōlelo ka poʻe kamaʻāina i ka poʻe mahi ʻai e mālama i ka mea e mālama ai, no ka mea, manaʻo ʻia aia he poho i loko.
Ma mua o ka hoʻomau ʻana i kā mākou huakaʻi he mea pono e haʻi aku iā Totolapa a me San Lucas ʻaʻohe o lākou hale ʻaina, lumi hoʻokipa a i ʻole nā keʻena ʻenekini. Loaʻa kēia mau lawelawe ma Villa de Acala, ma Chiapa de Corzo a i ʻole Tuxtla Gutiérrez. Inā ʻoe e hele i ka wailele ʻo San Lucas a i ʻole ʻo Los Chorritos de Totolapa, paipai mākou e kiʻi i kahi alakaʻi mai nā pelekikena kaona o nā kaona, no kou palekana a ʻoluʻolu hoʻi.
ʻO ka puna Pinola ka ʻāpana hope loa o kā mākou huakaʻi. Mai Tuxtla Gutiérrez hele aku mākou no ke ala i Venustiano Carranza-Pujiltic, kahi e lawe ai iā mākou ma ke kahawai ʻo Grijalva a me kāna mau kahawai, e hele ana, ma waena o nā wahi ʻē aʻe, ma o ka pale o ka wai wai La Laostostost.
100 km mai Tuxtla ka Pujiltic kō wili, nona ka hana kō i kekahi o nā mea nui loa ma Mekiko. Mai aneʻi ke ala nui a hiki i Villa Las Rosas, Teopisca, San Cristóbal a me Comitán, e hoʻohui nei i ka ʻāina wela me nā kuahiwi anuanu o Altos de Chiapas. Lawe mākou i kēia ala a me ka hapalua kakini kilomita mai Soyatitán, ma ka ʻaoʻao hema, ʻike mākou i ka auwaha lepo ʻo Ixtapilla, he mau haneli mau mita i mua, alakaʻi iā mākou i ka pahuhopu o kā mākou ala.
Ke waiho nei ke ala wai Pinola ma lalo o ka ululāʻau. He oasis ulu lāʻau ia i nā paia mauna e kaupalena ana i ka pā o nā moʻo ʻohe. Holo kahi kahawai wai ma ke ala o Ixtapilla aʻo ia ke alakaʻi maikaʻi loa e kiʻi ai i ka dam e kaohi ana i ke kahe o ka puna.
Hoʻopili ʻia i waena o nā mea kanu, e like me kahi huna, huki ka nui o ka wai e kona transparency, e ʻae iā ʻoe e nānā i ka lalo me kahi ʻoi maʻamau. Hiki ke maʻalahi ka moena, akā hōʻike ka luʻu wikiwiki i ʻoi aku ma mua o ʻehā mau mika ka hohonu.
Lele ka dragonflies a me nā butterfly nā waihoʻoluʻu i waho. I ka lima e iho ana lākou i ke aniani o ka loko iʻa e pāʻani ai i nā lau e wili ana ma nā kapa. Aia ka ʻalani, melemele, ʻōniʻoniʻo e like me nā tigika; Hoʻohui kekahi i nā ʻeheu e ʻeleʻele a ʻulaʻula, a ʻo kekahi e ʻōmaʻomaʻo i ʻūlū ʻia me nā lau a uli i ke kala o ka wai. Pupule no kekahi ʻohiʻohi.
ʻOi ka ʻōlinolino o ka loko iʻa i puni i ke kaiapuni e hoʻopuni iā ia. No kēia kumu, ke komo ʻana i loko o kāna wai he bapetizo moemoeā maoli i ka ʻoiaʻiʻo maoli. Inā ʻoe e kipa i ke kahawai Pinola, mai poina i ka visor, ka mea e hoʻoliʻiliʻi ai i kāu hana luʻu.
E hoʻopau i kēia huakaʻi makemake mākou e ʻōlelo ʻo ke kaona kokoke loa i ka pūnāwai ʻo Villa Las Rosas -8 km ka mamao - nona ka inoa kahiko ʻo Pinola, i kapa ʻia ma hope o ka inu kīʻaha huina i maʻa i nā kamaʻāina.
Nui ka ʻāina o Villa Las Rosas i nā piko a me nā ana, me nā hale hōʻikeʻike he nui "kahi āu e komo ai i kahi lā a haʻalele i kekahi lā", a i ʻole e like me ke ana ʻo Nachauk, i kilokilo nui ʻia, ma nā ʻōlelo a Nazario Jiménez, kahi ʻōiwi Tzeltal nāna mākou i alakaʻi i kēia mau kuhikuhi.
Ma luna o Villa Las Rosas, ma ka Sierra del Barreno, aia nā wahi i hōʻike ʻole ʻia o nā hale pule mua Hispanic a me nā hale paʻa. ʻO kekahi o lākou ka hale paʻa o Mukul Akil, hoʻokahi hola a me ka hapalua i ke ala pali. Eia hou, ma ke ala o Pujiltic hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike i ka hōʻino ʻia o ka luakini kolone o Soyatitán, nona ka ʻaoʻao baroque e kū nei ma ke kapeta nui o nā moena ʻohe.
Aia ʻo Villa Las Rosas i nā lawelawe hoʻokipa, hale ʻaina a me nā hale ʻenekini. E kamaʻilio ka lehulehu i ke komohana ʻākau me Teopisca a me San Cristóbal de las Casas, a i ka hikina me Comitán, e nā ala pākea.
Teritori o ka pau ʻole, Chiapas e loaʻa mau nā makana hou no ka poʻe ʻimi o Mekiko ʻike ʻole ʻia. ʻO San Lucas, Totolapa a me ke kahawai Pinola he ʻekolu mau laʻana o ka nui o ka mea hele i loaʻa ke komo inā komo i kāna mau ala a me nā panakō he nui.
Puna: ʻAʻole ʻike ʻia ʻo Mexico No. 265
