Hoʻohālikelike ʻia me ke kai Caribbean, hoʻonui ka Riviera Maya ma mua o 180 km, mai Puerto Morelos a hiki iā Felipe Carrillo Puerto, kahi kaiāulu piha i ka mōʻaukala a me ka waiwai kūlohelohe, kahi i hoʻokūpaʻa ʻia ai ka ikaika a me ka paʻa o nā kuʻuna o nā kamaʻāina i ka nohona o kēlā me kēia lā o nā kamaʻāina. kahi moʻomeheu kahiko.
ʻO ka huakaʻi ma waena o ka mokuʻāina ʻo Quintana Roo e lawe mau ai i nā mea pūʻiwa, ʻoiai ʻoe e hele aku i ka ʻākau, kahi e ʻike ʻia ai ka pahū kanaka a me ka hoʻopukapuka ʻole i ka hōkele a i ʻole nā lawelawe no nā malihini kipa, ma mua inā ʻoe e hele hema, Hoʻohui ʻia i ka Riviera Maya, akā i ka ʻāina nona, ʻo ka mea pōmaikaʻi, aia nō he mau wahi nui, ʻaneʻane ʻole e ʻike ʻia, me nā huakaʻi huakaʻi haʻahaʻa a me nā kaiāulu e mālama mau nei i kā lākou hui kaiaulu a me ka huahana i loko o nā papahana kuʻuna. Mahalo i kēia, ʻokoʻa loa ke ala ma waena o kēia wahi Maya mai ka mea i hana mua ʻia mai Puerto Morelos a Tulum, ʻaʻohe kānalua ʻoi aku ka nui o ka cosmopolitan.
Hoʻomaka ke ala
Welina mai ʻo Playa del Carmen iā mākou i ka napoʻo ʻana o ka lā, a ma hope o ke koho ʻana i kahi kaʻa kūpono e neʻe ai ma ke ala, ʻimi mākou i kahi hōkele kahi e hiki ai iā mākou ke noho i ka pō mua, e hoʻoulu hou i kā mākou pila uila a haʻalele i kakahiaka nui no Felipe Carrillo Puerto, ko mākou wahi nui. Ua koho mākou i ka Maroma, me nā lumi he 57 wale nō, kahi ʻano puʻuhonua no kāna poʻe malihini i waenakonu o ke kahakai hūnā. Ma laila, no ko mākou laki i kēia pō mahina piha ke komo nei mākou i ka temazcal, kahi ʻauʻau e hoʻomaʻemaʻe i ka ʻuhane a me ke kino, kahi i loko o hoʻokahi hola a me ka hapa o ka hoʻomana e paipai ʻia ka poʻe e hele e hālāwai me kahi kuʻuna nona nā aʻa e komo hohonu i nā loina o nā Mayans a me nā Aztecs kahiko, nā lāhui ʻōiwi o ʻAkau ʻAkau, a me ka moʻomeheu ʻAigupita.
ʻAʻole e ʻōlelo i kēlā mea mua i ke kakahiaka ua mākaukau mākou e hāpai i ka petroline ma kahi kokoke i Playa del Carmen, i ʻike nui ʻia ma ka honua holoʻokoʻa me ka nui ʻole o 100,000 poʻe, a me ke poʻo o ke kaona ʻo Solidaridad, kahi e hauʻoli ai kekahi a me ka hopohopo o Loaʻa i kāna mau luna ka helu ulu ulu kiʻekiʻe ma Mekiko, ma kahi o 23% i kēlā me kēia makahiki. Ma kēia hanana mākou hoʻomau, ʻoiai no ke aha e hōʻole ai, hoʻowalewale ʻia mākou e kū ma kekahi o nā wahi hoihoi i hoʻolaha ʻia ma ka ʻaoʻao o ke ala, ʻo ia paha ka pāka eco-archaeological kaulana o Xcaret a i ʻole Punta Venado, kahi huakaʻi me 800 hectares o ka ululāʻau a me ʻehā km o kahakai.
MA KA HOPE O NA KAUAHI
Hāʻawi mākou i ka hoihoi i ka iho ʻana i nā ana ʻo Kantun-Chi, nona ka inoa ʻo "waha o ka pōhaku melemele" ma Maya. Ma aneʻi ʻehā o nā cenote e kū nei i hāmama i ka lehulehu, hiki ke ʻauʻau i loko o kā lākou wai kai crystalline. ʻO ka mua ma ke ala ʻo Kantun Chi, ʻoiai e ukali ʻia e Sas ka leen Ha a i ʻole "wai aniani moakaka". ʻO ke kolu ʻo ka Uchil Ha a i ʻole "ka wai kahiko", a ʻo ka hā o ka Zacil Ha a i ʻole "ka wai maʻemaʻe", a ma hope o ke awakea ʻike ʻia nā kukuna o ka lā ke hele lākou i loko o kahi puka kūlohelohe i kona ʻaoʻao luna, ʻo ia ka nānā lākou i ka wai, me kahi ʻano ʻokoʻa o ka mālamalama a me ke aka.
ʻAneʻane hala ka manawa me ka ʻike ʻole a wikiwiki mākou i kā mākou wikiwiki e kipa i ka Grutaventura, me nā cenote ʻelua e pili ana i nā alaloa i hana maoli ʻia, nona ka lōʻihi a me ka laulā i piha me nā stalactite a me nā stalagmites. He mau kilomita i mua ke ʻike nei mākou i ka hoʻolaha o nā ana ʻē aʻe, nā Aktun Chen, a mākou i hui ai ma kahi huakaʻi mua. Eia nō naʻe, makemake mākou e kipa i ka pūnaewele archaeological o Tulum, pono i ka itinerary ma o ka ʻāina.
Kū mākou e inu i kahi wai huaʻai hou ma La Esperanza, kahi a lākou e manaʻo ai e heʻe i nā kahakai mālie o Caleta de Solimán a i ʻole Punta Tulsayab, akā hoʻomau mākou i nā wahi neoneo, ʻoiai aia kekahi mau ʻiʻini e iho hou.
TULUM A I 'O "DAWN"
I ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, ʻo ia kekahi o kēlā mau wahi i luhi ʻole ke kipa ʻana. He kilokilo kuikawa kona, me kāna mau hale paʻakikī e kū pono ana i ke kai, kahi e like me nā noiʻi archaeological i hala iho nei, inā paha i kūkulu ʻia kekahi o nā kūlanakauhale nui ʻo Maya ma nā kenekulia 13 a me 14. I kēlā manawa ua koho ʻia ia e ka inoa o "Zamá", pili i ka huaʻōlelo Maya "kakahiaka" a i ʻole "puka ʻana o ka lā", hiki ke hoʻomaopopo ʻia no ka mea aia ka pūnaewele ma ka hapa kiʻekiʻe o ka hikina hikina, kahi o ka puka a ka lā i kona nani a pau.
No laila, he ʻano hou aku nei ka inoa ʻo Tulum. Ua unuhi ʻia i loko o ka ʻōlelo Sepania ma ke ʻano he "palisade" a i ʻole "paia", kahi manaʻo maopopo i ka mea i mālama ʻia ma aneʻi. A ʻoiai ʻaʻole hiki iā mākou ke leʻaleʻa i kēlā puka nani ʻana o ka lā, ua kali mākou a hiki i ka wā panina e noʻonoʻo ai i ka pō ʻana o ka pō, ma waena o ka nui o ka pūʻali koa polū a me nā kūkulu honua, i hoʻopilikia ʻia e ka hoʻouka kaua ʻana o nā pūʻali koa kūlohelohe.
Ke ʻeleʻele nei a ʻike mākou mai ke kaona ʻo Tulum ke alanui e pili ana i nā ala ʻelua a me ke kukui ʻole a hiki iā Felipe Carrillo Puerto, no laila ke hele nei mākou i kahakai ma ke alaloa ʻo Ruinas de Tulum-Boca Paila, a ma km 10 ua hoʻoholo mākou i kekahi o nā hōkele kaiaola ma mua o ka Sian Kaʻan Biosfer Reserve. Ma laila, ma hope o ka hoʻāʻo ʻana i kahi ʻōlika kālika ʻono, kahi grouper i hoʻomoʻa ʻia a me kahi pia anuanu, lanakila ka hiamoe iā mākou. Eia nō naʻe, i ke komo ʻana o ke kukui kokoke i ka wanaʻao ma o ka puka aniani, uhi wale ʻia e ka pale lahilahi i nā makika, komo mākou i ka ʻauʻau kakahiaka i kēlā kahakai me ka wai aniani a mehana e like me nā mea ʻē aʻe.
I KA PUUWAI MAYANA
Ke hele nei mākou e hahau ʻia e kekahi mea hana i hana ʻia i ke kō a i ʻole liana a nā mea hana lima ponoʻī e hāʻawi ai i kahi hale liʻiliʻi i ke kiʻekiʻe o ka Chumpón Cruise. Hōʻike lākou i ka hana maoli intrinsic o nā ʻōiwi o ia wahi, ka poʻe i loaʻa i nā kumuwaiwai kūlohelohe kahi ala kūpono e loaʻa ai kā lākou ola.
ʻAʻole mākou e hoʻolōʻihi, no ka mea ke kali nei nā alakaʻi o ka wā e hiki mai ana, nā mākaʻikaʻi huakaʻi ʻo Xiimbal, iā mākou ma ka noho aupuni, kahi keʻena e mālama ʻia ana ʻo Gilmer Arroyo, he kanaka ʻōpio i aloha i kona wahi, nāna i noi pū me nā loea ʻē aʻe e hoʻolaha a pale pū kekahi. ka manaʻo o ecayourism kaiāulu Maya a me Gabriel Tun Can, ka mea e hele pū me mākou i ka wā o ka huakaʻi. Ua kāhea lākou i nā mea hoʻolaha hoihoi no ka ʻai, e like me ka mea kālaolaola ʻo Arturo Bayona, mai Ecociencia a me Proyecto Kantemó, nona ke ʻano hoihoi nui loa ʻo ke ana o nā nīʻau kau, ʻo Julio Moure, mai ka UNDP āpana a me Carlos Meade, ka luna o ka papahana ʻo Yaxche ' "ma ka paipai ʻana i ka ecotourism kaiāulu Maya, ua hoʻolauna ʻia ka hui komo o nā kamaʻāina o kēlā me kēia wahi, me nā hana kuʻuna moʻomeheu e hoʻoikaika ai nā waiwai ʻōiwi, a hoʻohui ʻia kahi hoʻomohala hoʻomau o nā kumuwaiwai kūlohelohe, mahalo iā ia hana lākou i nā pono kūpono i nā kamaʻāina ”. Ma kēia ala, kono lākou iā mākou e kipa i ke kaiāulu o Señor i ka lā aʻe, kahi ʻoi aku ma mua o ʻelua kaukani poʻe e noho nei ma ke ʻano he kikowaena hoʻohui i ka ʻākau o ke kaona, a ʻo kāna mau hana maʻamau ka mahiʻai, hana hua, ulu lāʻau a me ka mahiʻai. beekeeping.
Ma hope, kipa mākou i nā wahi hoihoi loa o ka mōʻaukala, ka Hale Kānāwai o ke Keʻena Kūkākūkā, ka luakini Katolika kahiko o Santa Cruz, ka Makeke, ka Pila de los Azotes a me ka Hale o ka moʻomeheu. He lā lōʻihi loa ia a ke noi nei ke kino no ka hoʻomaha, ma hope o ka hoʻoulu ʻana iā mākou iho me kahi wai chaya ʻono a hāʻawi iā mākou iho i kahi salbute, noho mākou i ka Hotel Esquivel, e hauʻoli ai i ka hiamoe maha.
I KA ENCOUNTER O NA MAI
Ma ke ala e hele aku ai i Tihosuco, ma ke ala nui 295 hele mākou i Señor, kahi e kaʻana like ai mākou me kekahi o kona poʻe kamaʻāina i nā ʻike o ke ola o kēlā me kēia lā, kā lākou kuʻuna a me nā meaʻai maʻamau, i kono ʻia e nā mea hoʻonohonoho o ka XYAAT Community Ecotourism Project. I ka wā ma mua, ua wehewehe ʻo Meade iā mākou i ka wahi e mālama mau ana i nā ʻāpana kūloko ma ke ʻano o ka hoʻonohonoho kaiāulu a me ka hoʻokumu ʻana, a ʻo ka mea nui o nā hana ka hana ʻana i nā meaʻai no ka ʻai ponoʻī, i ʻelua mau wahi: ka mea nui, ka milpa, ma ka ʻāina kokoke i ke kaona me nā mea kanu o ka wā e like me ka kulina, ka pīni, ka palaʻai a me nā kūpe, ʻoiai e hana ana nā mea ʻē aʻe ma ka pūnaewele, a puni ka hale, kahi o nā mea kanu a me nā lāʻau hua, a me nā moa a me puaʻa.
Eia kekahi, i kekahi mau hale aia nā māla me nā mea kanu lāʻau, e like me nā mea hoʻōla maikaʻi a i ʻole nā mea hoʻōla - ʻo ka hapanui, nā wahine-, nā palekeiki a me nā mea kanu lāʻau, a ʻike ʻia nā mea hoʻokalakupua, mahalo nui ʻia no ka mea he kumu kā lākou i hoʻokumu ʻia i ka naʻauao. kaulana o kona mau kūpuna. ʻO kekahi o kēia poʻe hoʻoponopono ʻōiwi ʻo María Vicenta Ek Balam, nāna mākou i hoʻokipa i kāna māla i piha i nā mea kanu hoʻōla a wehewehe i kā lākou waiwai no nā lāʻau lapaʻau, nā ʻōlelo Mayan āpau, a mākou e hauʻoli nei no kona kani leʻaleʻa, ʻo Marcos, ke poʻo o XYAAT. , unuhi lohi.
No laila, ʻōlelo lākou e kipa aku i ka mea haʻi moʻolelo a i ʻole nā "hōʻailona", e like me ke kāhea ʻia ʻana. No laila, ʻo Mateo Canté, e noho ana i loko o kāna hama, e haʻi iā mākou ma Maya i nā moʻolelo moemoeā o ka hoʻokumu ʻana o Señor a me ka nui o ka hoʻokalakupua i laila. Ma hope, hālāwai mākou me ka mea hana i nā mea kani perkusi ma ia wahi, ʻo Aniceto Pool, ʻo ia wale nō me kekahi mau mea hana maʻalahi e hana i ka bom bom a i ʻole nā tamboras e hoʻonani i nā ʻāpana kūpanaha. ʻO ka mea hope loa, e hōʻemi i ka wela, ua pakele mākou no kekahi manawa e ʻauʻau i ka wai mālie o ka Blue Lagoon, ʻekolu wale nō mile i ke kaona ʻo Chancen Comandante. I ko mākou hoʻi ʻana, aia wale nō, ʻōlelo mai nā alakaʻi XYAAT me nā minoʻaka kolohe aia kekahi mau crocodile ma nā kapa, akā ua ʻano palaka lākou. He mea hoʻomakeʻaka Maya maikaʻi nō ia.
MA KA NOHO ANA I NA SNAKES
Ua kokoke ka hopena o ka huakaʻi, akā ua nalowale ke kipa iā Kantemó, e iho i ke ana o nā Serpents kau. Ke hele nei mākou me nā meaolaola ʻo Arturo Bayona lāua ʻo Julissa Sánchez, ka mea i mua o kā mākou kānalua e makemake e mālama i nā mea i manaʻo ʻia. No laila, ma ke alahele ma ke Alaloa Nui 184, ma hope o ka hala ʻana iā José María Morelos, i ka hōʻea ʻana i Dziuché, ʻelua km aku ʻo Kantemó, kahi kauhale kahi e hoʻokō ʻia ai ka papahana - kākoʻo ʻia e ke Komisina no ka hoʻomohala ʻana i nā lāhui ʻōiwi (CDI). a me Ecociencia, AC.
Holo mākou i kahi waʻa pōkole ma waena o ka lagoon a laila hele mākou ma ke ala wehewehe o ʻelima km, e nānā i nā kamaʻāina a me nā manu neʻe. Pono mākou e kali no ke ahiahi ke hoʻomaka ka mau ʻōpeʻapeʻa e puka mai ka waha o ke ana, kahi manawa kikoʻī e iho i lalo, no ka mea a laila nā nāhesa, nā mousetraps i hoʻoweliweli, e kū i ko lākou kūlana e hoʻouka iā lākou, e puka mai ana mai nā lua kala i ka kaupaku o ke ana. a kau ʻia i lalo i ka huelo, e kiʻi i ka ʻōpeʻapeʻa i kahi neʻe wikiwiki a ʻōwili koke i kona kino e ʻū a ʻeli mālie iā ia. He mea hoʻonani a kū hoʻokahi ia, i ʻike hou ʻia, a ua lilo ia i mea hoʻohihi nui i loko o ka papahana kaiāulu ecotourism e mālama ʻia e nā kamaʻāina.
MA KE KAUA KENE
ʻAneʻane ma ka palena me ka mokuʻāina ʻo Yucatán e kū nei ʻo Tihosuco, kahi kūlanakauhale me ka mōʻaukala lōʻihi, akā me nā poʻe liʻiliʻi i kēia lā a ua kū paha i ka manawa. Ma laila mākou i hōʻea ai e ʻike i kona Hale Hōʻikeʻike Kaulana o ke Kaua Caste, i hoʻonoho ʻia i loko o kahi hale kolone e like me ka moʻolelo a kekahi mau mōʻaukala no ka moʻolelo kaulana ʻo Jacinto Pat.
Aia i loko o ka hale hōʻikeʻike ʻehā mau lumi, kahi e hōʻike ʻia ai nā kiʻi pena, nā kiʻi, nā replicas, nā hiʻohiʻona a me nā palapala e pili ana i ka neʻe ʻōiwi e kūʻē i ka Paniolo. I ka lumi hope loa he mau mea kaua, nā hiʻohiʻona a me nā palapala e pili ana i ka hoʻomaka a me ka hoʻomohala ʻana o ke Kaua Caste i ka kenekulia ʻumikūmāiwa, a me ka ʻike e pili ana i ka hoʻokumu ʻia o Chan Santa Cruz. Eia nō naʻe, ʻo ka mea kupaianaha loa e pili ana i kēia pūnaewele ka hana kaulana a lākou e hōʻike ai me nā hui like ʻole, mai nā papa wili a me nā hana humuhumu, e hoʻohana ai i ka ʻike o nā mea humuhumu kahiko, i nā mea i nā ʻaina kuʻuna a i nā hulahula āpana paha, i mea e mālama i nā loina i waena o nā hanauna hou. No kēia mea, hāʻawi lākou iā mākou i kahi laʻana i ke awakea ua, akā piha i ke kala ma muli o ke kāhiko nani o nā huipile a nā mea hula e komo ai a me nā ipu Maya momona a mākou i ʻono ai.
KA HOPE O KE ALANUI
Ua hana mākou i kahi huakaʻi lōʻihi mai Tihosuco, e hele ana i ke kūlanakauhale ʻo Valladolid, ma ka mokuʻāina ʻo Yucatán, e hele ana ma Cobá a hōʻea i Tulum. Ua hoʻi mākou i kahi i hoʻomaka ai, akā ʻaʻole ma mua o ke kipa ʻana iā Puerto Aventuras, kahi hoʻomaha a me nā hoʻomohala ʻoihana i kūkulu ʻia a puni ka marina wale nō ma Riviera Maya, a kahi e hāʻawi ai lākou i kahi hōʻike maikaʻi me nā dolphins. Aia kekahi ʻo ka Cultural and Polyreligious Center, hoʻokahi wale nō o kona ʻano ma ia wahi, a ʻo CEDAM, Hale Hōʻikeʻike Nautical. E moe i ka pō, hoʻi mākou i Playa del Carmen, kahi o ka pō hope loa o ka huakaʻi ma Los Itzaes hotel, ma hope o ka ʻaina awakea kai ma La Casa del Agua- Me ke kanalua ʻole, haʻalele mau kēia ala iā mākou e makemake e ʻike hou, Hōʻoiaʻiʻo hou mākou i ka mālama ʻana o ka Riviera Maya i nā enigma he nui i loko o kāna ululāʻau, cenote, ana a me nā kahakai, e hāʻawi mau i kahi Mexico pau ʻole e ʻike.
HE MOOLELO KOHO
I ka hōʻea ʻana mai o nā kolone Sepania, ua hoʻokaʻawale ʻia ka honua Maya ma ka mokuʻāina o Quintana Roo i ʻehā mau aliʻi a i ʻole nā panalāʻau mai ka ʻākau a i ka hema: Ecab, Cochua, Uaymil a me Chactemal. Ma Cochua he mau kaona i lilo i ke kulanakauhale o Felipe Carrillo Puerto, e like me Chuyaxche, Polyuc, Kampocolche, Chunhuhub, Tabi a me ke kapikala a laila aia ma Tihosuco, ʻo Joʻotsuuk ma mua. Ma Huaymil ʻike ʻia ia o nā noho Maya ma ke kai kūʻono o ka ʻUhane Hemolele a ma ke kūlanakauhale ʻo Felipe Carrillo Puerto i kēia manawa.
Kauoha ʻia e ka Paniolo Francisco Montejo, ma 1544 ua pio kēia teritori, no laila ua hoʻokau ʻia nā ʻōiwi i ka ʻōnaehana encomienda. Ua mau kēia ma ke kolone a me ke kūʻokoʻa, a hiki i Iulai 30, 1847 kipi lākou i Tepich i kauoha ʻia e Cecilio Chí, a ma hope e Jacinto Pat a me nā alakaʻi kūloko ʻē aʻe, e hoʻomaka ana i ke Kaua Caste no 80 mau makahiki i mālama ʻia. ma ka ʻaoʻao kaua e kūʻē aku i nā Mei o ka peni Yucatecan. I loko o kēia wā, ua hoʻokumu ʻia ʻo Chan Santa Cruz, kahi noho o ka Talking Cross, kahi hoihoi o kāna mōʻaukala hoʻomana: i ka makahiki 1848, ʻo José Ma. me ke kōkua o kahi ventriloquist ua hoʻouna ʻo ia i nā leka i ka poʻe kipi e hoʻomau i kā lākou hakakā. Me ka hala ʻana o ka manawa, ua ʻike ʻia kēia pūnaewele ʻo Chan Santa Cruz, ka mea e kapa ʻia ʻo Felipe Carrillo Puerto a lilo i noho aupuni.
Puna: Nūhou Mexico No 333 / Nowemapa 2004
