E kiʻi i Tecolutla, ma ke alanui no. 129 ʻoe e huakaʻi ma kahi o 500 km, e hele ana i nā mokuʻāina o Hidalgo a me Puebla, ma mua o ka hōʻea ʻana i Poza Rica kahi e hele ai i kahi huli i Papantla a i ka ʻākau paha, inā makemake ʻoe e hele i Tuxpan.
I kēia manawa ua haʻalele mākou iā Mexico City i ka wanaʻao no ka mea makemake mākou e hele i kahakai i ka ʻaina awakea.
ʻO kahi ʻāina kupaianaha, piha i nā conifers, leʻaleʻa i ka wā o ka huakaʻi, i manaʻo ʻia e ka lā no ka mea ua kaulana ka noe ma ka ʻāpana ma waena o Acaxochitlán a me Huauchinango, kahi e waiho ai nā hale kūʻai kūwaho e kūʻai aku ana i ka waiʻona a me nā mālama hua hua ʻāina. Ma ke ala, i ke kiʻekiʻe o ka dam Necaxa, ma ke kaona ʻo San Miguel, kūpono i kahi lumi hoʻokipa a me nā hale ʻaina e hoʻolōʻihi i kou mau wāwae a ʻoliʻoli i ka nānā kupaianaha.
Akā, ʻo kahi e hele aku ai kahi ʻē aʻe, hoʻomau mākou ma ke ala wili, komo i loko o ka noe a iho i lalo, ma hope o ka hala ʻana iā Xicotepec, ʻike ʻia nā māla maiʻa nui. ʻAʻole lōʻihi ia ma mua o ka loaʻa ʻana o ka mea kūʻai aku i nā mea kanu palai, momona a paʻakai paha ma nā piko, kahi e māʻona ai ko mākou makemake nui me kā lākou ʻono ʻokoʻa.
Ke komo nei i Papantla, aia ma kahi o 43 km komohana o Tecolutla, a i hoʻokumu ʻia e nā Totopila ma kahi o ke kenekulia 12, he hōʻailona e hōʻike ana he ʻelima wale nō mile ka mamao o ke kahua archaeological o El Tajín, a ʻoiai ʻaʻole i hoʻokomo ʻia i loko o kā mākou papahana He mea hoʻowalewale loa ia, no laila ke hoʻololi nei mākou i ka papa e ʻike ai i kēia kūlanakauhale ma mua o ka Hispanic i ʻike ʻia ma ka manawa wale nō i ka makahiki 1785 ke ʻimi nei kahi luna Sepania i nā mahi paka.
MA KA HANOHANO A KE AKUA O THUNDER
I ka hōʻea ʻana, ma ke ākea e komo ai i ka pūnaewele, i hoʻopuni ʻia e nā wahi ʻoihana i piha i nā mea hana lima a me nā lole kuʻuna mai ia wahi, hoʻomaka ka hōʻike ʻo Voladores de Papantla, kekahi o nā hana keu loa ma waena o nā Mesoamerican rites, nona ka hōʻailona sekule e hoʻopili ʻia. me ka hoʻomana lā a me ka momona o ka honua. ʻO ka poʻe e ʻike nei i kēia hana no ka manawa mua e kāhāhā i ka wiwo ʻole o ka poʻe hula ke piʻi lākou i luna o kahi pahu kiʻekiʻe a nakinaki ʻia e nā kaula ma ko lākou pūhaka e iho lākou i 13 mau pōʻai, e hoʻohālike ana i nā ʻaeto i ka lele ʻana, a hiki i ka wā e hoʻopā ai lākou i ka honua me ko lākou mau wāwae.
Ma hope o ka leʻaleʻa i kēlā ʻike weliweli, a no ka hoʻomākaukau ʻana iā mākou iho i ka hoʻolālā o ia wahi, ua komo mākou i ka Hale Hōʻikeʻike ma kahi o kahi hiʻohiʻona didactic i alakaʻi ma ke ʻano he alakaʻi mua. Hōʻike lākou i ka hoʻolālā ʻana o kēia kūlanakauhale kahakai, ʻo Totatira, kahi ʻano o ka hoʻohui mau o nā mea ʻekolu, nā pali, nā frieze o nā niches a me nā cornice i lele ʻia, a me nā ʻanuʻu i hehi ʻia. Hōʻike lākou i ka mea nui o ka Pāʻani Pōpō, kahi haʻuki maʻamau, ʻoiai ua ʻike ʻia nā ʻaha he 17 ma laila.
Lilo mākou i ke ala o ka manawa ke hele mākou ma waena o nā hale pīhoihoi i pāhola ʻia ma kahi o 1.5 km2, i noho ʻia ma mua e nā luakini, nā kuahu a i ʻole nā hale aliʻi, a ʻoiai, ua pīhoihoi mākou i ka Pyramid mua o Niches, me nā lua pele 365 me ke kanalua ʻole. allusive i ka ikehu lā makahiki a me kona mau cornices, no laila ʻokoʻa mai nā kia'āina Hispanic mua. Pau wale kā mākou huakaʻi ke aʻo aku lākou e pili ana i ka pani hou ʻana o ka wahi, hānai ʻia me ka ʻaʻala o vanilla, nona nā lāʻau kī i kūʻai aku ʻia i nā poʻe mākaʻikaʻi.
I KA HIKI
ʻAneʻane kokoke i ka pōʻeleʻele ke komo mākou i Gutiérrez Zamora, i ka lua o nā muliwai o ka muliwai ʻo Tecolutla, i ke kaona huakaʻi o kēia inoa. Ma ka Hotel Playa "Juan el Pescador" ʻo ka mea nona, ʻo Juan Ramón Vargas, pelekikena o ka ʻAhahui o nā Hōkele a me nā Motels, ke kali nei iā mākou mai ke awakea, kahi aloha aloha i kona wahi i hānau ai a he alakaʻi alakaʻi nani e ʻimi i nā wahi o ka wahi, ʻoi aku ma ʻō aku o nā kahakai a i ʻole nā hale ʻaina helu ʻole me nā ipu ʻono, ma muli o nā hua o ke kai.
ʻOi loa, ʻaʻohe mea maikaʻi aʻe e hōʻoluʻolu i ka voracity o kēlā mau hola ma mua o ka leʻaleʻa i ka leʻo me kahi cocktail shrimp maikaʻi a me kahi iʻa iʻa me ka wai kālika, me nā huaʻai, ma hope o ka noho ʻana i loko o kā mākou lumi e nānā ana i ke kai. Ma hope, hele wāwae mākou ma nā alanui mālie o kēia kaona me kahi 8,500 mau kamaʻāina, i ke kau kiʻekiʻe e ʻaneʻane pākolu ʻia ka nui o nā mākaʻikaʻi, ka hapa nui o ka lāhui a mai ka mokuʻāina like, a mai nā wahi pili ʻē aʻe, e like me Hidalgo, Puebla a i ʻole Tamaulipas.
I kēlā me kēia makahiki, me ka hoʻohui ʻana, hoʻākoakoa lākou i ʻelua o nā hoʻokūkū lawaiʻa haʻuki nui i ka ʻāina, ʻo ia ʻo Sábalo a ʻo Róbalo, e pili ana i ka hapa nui o nā kamaʻāina o Tecolutla lāua ʻo Gutiérrez Zamora, ʻoiai ua neʻe kā lākou lawaiʻa me kā lākou mau moku. i ka poʻe hoʻokūkū a hana ma ke ʻano he alakaʻi maikaʻi loa, ʻoiai ua hoʻopiha ʻia kona mau lumi he 1,500, mahele ʻia i kekahi mau hōkele he 125, ʻo ka hapa nui o lākou nā mea nona kahi, a ʻoi aku ma mua o hoʻokahi haneli mau hale ʻaina, aia wale nō ma kahakai. Pēlā nō, haʻi lākou iā mākou e pili ana i kekahi hanana makahiki hou o ka pili kūpono no kēia heluna kanaka, ʻo ka Hōʻike niu, kahi i hoʻomākaukau ʻia ka niu nui loa o ka honua, ʻoiai i ka makahiki i hala i hana ai lākou i ʻeono kaukani a me ʻelua tone o kō, i waena o nā mea hana ʻē aʻe. Me ke kanalua ʻole, hāʻawi kēlā me kēia hoʻolauleʻa i nā kumu kala maikaʻi e hoʻi ai i kēia kauhale lawaiʻa.
KE ANA O NA MEA
ʻO kekahi o nā leʻaleʻa o Tecolutla nā kahakai me ke komo ʻana o ka lehulehu, ʻoiai aia ma kahi o 15 km o ke kahakai e kū pono ana i ke kai ākea, me ka maʻamau me nā nalu mālie a mehana, koe wale nō i ka wā o ka ʻākau. Akā, ʻo ka mea kupaianaha nui loa no ka mea hele, ʻo ia nā kahawai wai o ka muliwai ʻo Tecolutla, a i ka wanaʻao hoʻi, e mākaukau ana mākou e huakaʻi i ka moku "Pataritos" o kā mākou mea hoʻokipa. Ma ke ala, ʻo ka inoa maikaʻi o ka moku ma muli o ke koho a ka makahiapo o kāna mau keiki, nāna i kapa i kēlā ʻano ke hoʻomaka ʻo ia e ʻōlelo.
ʻEkolu mau kahawai i kipa ʻia, ʻo El Silencio, me ʻelima mau mile e hiki ke hoʻokele ʻia, momona i nā mangrove a me kahi nani hiki ʻole ke haʻi ʻia i nā huaʻōlelo. ʻAʻole makehewa ka inoa o kēlā wai kua, no ka mea, ke pio ka ʻenekini a ʻo nā kulu nahenahe paha o nā ʻekena a me nā kulu hau e hāʻule mālie mai luna o nā kumu lāʻau. Hele hou mākou, hele mākou i ka Estero de la Cruz, no ka aniani moakaka 25 km, kahi i lawaiʻa pinepine ʻia ai ka snook, ʻoiai ka lua wai ʻo Naranjo, ka nui loa, me kahi o 40 km, e hele i nā mahi holoholona a me nā ulu ʻalani. He ʻāina bucolic ia, kūpono no ka nānā manu ʻana, ʻike mākou i ka ibis, nā cormorants, nā ʻoka, nā ʻākena, nā iʻa ʻulaʻula, nā ʻaeto, nā ʻaleʻale, a me nā nalo ʻokoʻa o nā ʻano like ʻole. I ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, ke hele wāwae ma waena o nā estuaries e paipai i ka launa piha me ke kūlohelohe, hiki ke hoʻomaha i ke kakahiaka hoʻokahi i nā kaumaha a pau i lawe ʻia mai ke kapikala nui.
Ma ke ala e hoʻi ai, lawe ʻo Juan Ramón iā mākou i kahi o Fernando Manzano, ka mea i ʻike maikaʻi ʻia e kona mau kamaʻāina ʻo "Papa Tortuga", ʻo ia, ma ke poʻo o ka hui kaiaulu ʻo Vida Milenaria, e hakakā nei no nā makahiki he kaua ikaika loa i ka mālama ʻana i nā kuhukukū, kahi āna i kōkua ai. e hana kope a hoʻokuʻu i kēlā me kēia makahiki ma waena o ʻelima a ʻeono tausani i kikoo ʻia mai nā hua manu i mahalo ʻia i ko lākou ʻike nui, me ke kākoʻo o nā mea manawaleʻa he nui a me ko lākou mau ʻohana, i nā hele lōʻihi ma nā kahakai kokoke A ma mua o ka haʻalele ʻana no Costa Smeralda, kipa mākou i kahi kanu hana vanilla ma Gutiérrez Zamora, no ka ʻohana Gaya mai ka makahiki 1873, kahi a lākou e wehewehe ai i nā hana e pono ai e kiʻi i nā extract a i ʻole liqueurs o kēia hua ʻaʻala.
ALANUI I PUERTO JAROCHO
Ma ke ala nui e hele ana i ke kūlanakauhale ʻo Veracruz, hoʻolaha ʻia ka mea i kapa ʻia ʻo Costa Esmeralda, kahi ala maikaʻi loa me nā hōkele liʻiliʻi, nā bungalow, nā kahua hoʻomoana a me nā hale ʻāina. Kū iki mākou ma Iztirinchá, kekahi o nā kahakai i paipai ʻia, ma mua koke o Barra de Palmas, kahi hiki ke hoʻomaʻamaʻa i ka lawaiʻa a hoʻomaha me ka maʻalahi. Mai laila aku hele ke ala mai ke kahakai, a i Santa Ana, kahi e loaʻa ai iā mākou kahi lumi hoʻokipa a me nā mea hānai maʻalahi, ʻoiai ma Palma Sola a me Cardel kahi e ʻike hou ai i nā ʻano hoʻokipa ʻē aʻe. Ma laila mākou e hoʻouka ai i ka wahie a me ke ala nui ʻehā e alakaʻi ai i ke awa e hoʻomaka, ʻoiai ʻo ka poʻe e makemake e noho i ka pō ma ke kahakai mālie hiki iā lākou ke hele i Boca Andrea a i ʻole Chachalacas, kekahi o nā mea kaulana loa no kāna puʻu nui.
HE KOPE ikaika ...
Ke komo mākou i ke kūlanakauhale, hele mākou i ka cafe maʻamau ʻo La Parroquia e loaʻa kahi kofe ʻono, ikaika loa, ma ka pā hale e nānā pono ana i ka papa nui. Aia mākou i ka puʻuwai koʻikoʻi o ka mokuʻāina ʻo Veracruz, kekahi o nā mea waiwai loa o ka ʻāina, piha i ka ʻaila, nā lole a me nā hana pia, nā hale wili kō, nā mahi mahiʻai a me nā holoholona holoholona, kahi hoʻonui nui i nā manawa kolone i ka wā o ka Fleet waiwai o Ua waiho aku ʻo Sepania Hou i kona awa ma ka pālākiō i ke kai kūʻono o Havana, me nā moku i piha i ke gula, ke kālā a me nā ʻano huahana like ʻole i makemake ʻia e ka pāpale aliʻi Sepania.
Ua wehewehe ʻo Alexander de Humbolft i kēia kūlanakauhale i loko o kāna Political Essay on the Kingdom of New Spain ma ke ʻano he "nani a kūkulu mau ʻia." A i kēlā manawa ua manaʻo ʻia ʻo ia ka "ʻīpuka nui o Mekiko", kahi e kahe ai ka waiwai a pau o kēia mau ʻāina ākea i ʻEulopa, ʻoiai ʻo ia wale nō ke awa ma ke Kai Kūʻono i ʻae ʻia e komo maʻalahi i loko ona. Mālama ʻia kēlā galantry laulā ma kāna kikowaena mōʻaukala, kahi e hui ai nā memo o ke keiki jarocho i ke ahiahi a me nā mea o ka danzón hānai, ma nā puka i piha i nā kamaʻāina a me nā mākaʻikaʻi, no ka mea ʻaʻohe hopena o ka pō. Ma ka wanaʻao, hauʻoli mākou i ka papa helehelena kupaianaha i mua o ka hōkele ma Boca del Río, a ma mua o ka hoʻomau ʻana i kā mākou ala i ka hema, kipa mākou i ka Aquarium, kanalua ʻole kekahi o nā ʻoi loa o ka honua, me nā ʻano kai he nui. He pūnaewele nui ia no nā mea hele malihini aloha.
NA ALVARADO
Hele mākou i ke ala ma ka hema. Nānā mākou iā Laguna Mandinga, nona nā hale ʻaina muliwai e paʻa mau a hoʻomau iā Antón Lizardo, kahi e mālama ai i ke ʻano o kahi kauhale lawaiʻa ʻoiaʻiʻo.
Ma kahi o 80 km ka mamao, ke kali nei ʻo Alvarado iā mākou, kahi o nā wahi nani loa o ka ʻāina, me kahi kūlana gastronomic maikaʻi, no ka mea, ma laila e hiki ai ke ʻai i nā ʻano iʻa a me nā ʻano iʻa like ʻole ma nā kumukūʻai henehene maoli ʻole, me ke ʻano gourmet. .
Ma mua o ka ʻike ʻana i kēia wahi, ua ʻike wau e pili ana iā ia mai nā paukū o ka haku mele ʻo Salvador Vives, nāna i wehewehe iā ia ma ke ʻano he “awa liʻiliʻi, he kauhale lawaiʻa e ʻaʻala i ka iʻa o ka iʻa, ka paka a me ka hou. Hale mahiʻai keʻokeʻo e holo ana i kahakai a nānā pono ʻole i ka muliwai ”. ʻOiai, me he mea lā ua paʻa ʻia i ka manawa, mālama ʻia kona kikowaena mōʻaukala i kahi maluhia maʻamau ʻole no ka poʻe paʻahana i kēia lā. ʻO nā hale keʻokeʻo hanohano me nā alaloa ākea a malumalu hoʻi e hoʻopuni i ke kikowaena waena, kahi e kū ai ka luakini parish a me ka hale aliʻi opulent. Ua lawa ka hele wāwae ʻana i kekahi mau alaloa e palena ana i ke awa, piha i nā moku lawaiʻa, ua pala kekahi a ʻo nā mea ʻē aʻe e mākaukau mau ana e hele i kai, ʻoiai ʻo ka lawaiʻa kā lākou kumu waiwai nui, ʻoiai ʻaʻole i ʻike ka mākaʻikaʻi i kēia wahi e like me ka mea kūpono. . Hui pū ka Lagoon ʻo Alvarado a me ka muliwai ʻo Papaloapan e hāʻawi iā mākou i kahi ʻano ʻokoʻa.
ʻOiaʻiʻo, ma mua o ka hoʻomau ʻana i ka huakaʻi mālama mākou iā mākou iho i kahi laiki momona i ka tumbada, kahi ʻano Alvaradeña o ka paella kuʻuna, akā ʻo ka moa, hoʻomākaukau ʻia me nā iʻa a me nā iʻa, a me kekahi mau toast crab maikaʻi loa. Kakaikahi nā meaʻai e like me kēia, i ka maikaʻi a me ka nui.
ʻIke ʻia nā kahakai
Mai ʻaneʻi e hoʻonui ʻia ke ala ma waena o nā moena ʻohe nui a me nā kalaka i hoʻokau ʻia me ka mauʻu mauʻu e hele mau no ka hana ʻana i nā mea wili, a nā chimneys e hoʻopuka nei i kahi pae ʻole o ka uahi palaunu, kahi hōʻailona o ka hana mau ʻole i kā lākou hale wili kō. Ma kahi mamao aku hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike i nā wahi mauna o Los Tuxtlas, akā ʻoiai makemake mākou e ʻike e like me ka hiki e pili ana i nā kahakai kokoke, ma hope o ka hele ʻana ma o Lerdo de Tejada a me Cabada huli mākou i ka hema ma ke ala ʻololī, a ma hope o hoʻokahi hola. ma ke ala e lawe iā mākou i Montepío.
Akā, ma mua iki o kā mākou ʻike ʻana i kahi hōʻailona liʻiliʻi: "50 mau mika, e Toro Prieto." Lanakila ʻo Curiosity iā mākou a komo i ke ala lepo hele mākou i kahi kahakai kahi mākou e ʻike ai i kahi hoʻomoana kaiaola keu, ka Pirate's Cave, a me kekahi o nā lumi kuke pipiʻi ʻole, e hāmama ana ke hiki mai nā mea kūʻai aku.
ʻOi aku ma ke kahakai ʻo Roca Partida, kekahi o kēlā mau wahi e makemake ai ʻoe e noho mau. Ma laila e hāʻawi ai ka poʻe lawaiʻa i kahi huakaʻi ma lalo o ke ana, kahi e like me ka mea a lākou e wehewehe ai, hiki ke hele ʻia i ka holo ʻana i ke au haʻahaʻa.
Hoʻi hou mākou i ke ala a kokoke i ka pō ahiahi hiki mākou i ke kahakai ʻo Montepío, kahi nui o nā hōkele a me nā hale hoʻokipa, a me kekahi mau palapa e ʻai ai i mua o ke kai. Nui loa ka hāmau i hiki ke lohe ʻia nā mele o nā hale ʻuʻuku ma ke kahakai kokoke i ka pā o ka hale noho a mākou i koho ai e noho i ka pō, ʻoiai mākou e leʻaleʻa nei i ka helu ʻana i nā hōkū e ʻinā i loko o kahi waihona lani maemae kahi e hoʻomālamalama mau ai ka mahina nani.
KA HOPE O KA HUAKAI
Ua noi mākou i ka luna hōkele e pili ana i nā kahakai maikaʻi loa i hiki iā mākou ke loaʻa ma mua o Catemaco a ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia iā Playa Escondida lāua ʻo Hicacos. No laila, i ke kakahiaka nui, haʻalele mākou i ke kūlanakauhale kaulana o ka poʻe hoʻokalakupua, ma ke ala lepo, ʻoʻoleʻa loa, ʻaʻole pono e hele i ka pō. Eia nō naʻe, he mea kūpono ke lele, no ka mea, ma hope koke iho o ka ʻike ʻana o mākou i ka ʻaoʻao i mua o nā kahakai i ʻōlelo ʻia aʻe nei, ʻaʻole makehewa ka inoa, no ka mea, he kihi maikaʻi loa ia ma waena o kahi, i hoʻopiha ʻia i loko o nā lau nahele lush, i ka ʻO ka mea hiki wale ke komo i ka hele ʻana i lalo i kahi ʻūlili pali a kūlike ʻole, a i ʻole ma ke kai e ka moku. I ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, he wahi hoʻokalakupua ia, kahi a mākou e makemake ai e moku a ʻaʻole loa e hoʻopakele ʻia.
Akā, hopu ka makemake i ko mākou manaʻo a hoʻomau mākou i Playa Hicacos, kekahi o nā wahi puʻupaʻa kokoke kahi hale hoʻokipa maʻalahi, a me kahi hale ʻaina liʻiliʻi hoʻi e holo ʻia e kahi ʻohana aloha, hiki ke hoʻomākaukau i kekahi o nā mea iʻa momona ua hoʻāʻo mākou i ke ala āpau. Ma ke ala, iā mākou i nīnau ai iā lākou “inā he hou”, ua like ka pane me he mea hoʻomākeʻaka lā, “ʻaʻole ia mai kēia lā, akā mai ka ʻauinalā o nehinei”.
Ua pau ka huakaʻi, ʻoiai ʻaʻole ma mua o ka hoʻouka ʻia ʻana o ka petroline ma Catemaco, kahi i waiho ʻia ai mākou e makemake e hele i ka Mokupuni o nā Monkeys, a i ʻole e kipa aku i kekahi o kāna poʻe kilokilo Akā, hoʻonohonoho ka manawa i ka leo a pēlā i kau ʻia ai ka hoʻi i Mexico City. Eia nō naʻe, ʻae ʻia kēia ala iā mākou e komo i nā wahi i manaʻo ʻole ʻia, i nā estuaries a me nā kahakai i hiki ke loaʻa i nā mea huakaʻi he nui, i ke aloha me nā nani kūlohelohe ʻole o Mekiko.
