Unique, ʻano, succulent, wela, me ka paʻakai, kālua ʻia, ma Taco, al pastor, ma quesadilla, chilaquil, sope, i ka sup, me ka lima, comal, polū, keʻokeʻo, melemele, momona, lahilahi, liʻiliʻi, nui, la ʻO ka tortilla Mekiko ka hōʻailona a me ka moʻomeheu kahiko o ka moʻomeheu culinary o ko mākou ʻāina.
Aloha ʻia e nā poʻe Mekiko me ka nānā ʻole i ka papa kaiapili nona ia, hoʻopau ʻia ka tortilla i kēlā me kēia lā e like me kā mākou berena, ʻo ia wale nō a i ʻole i nā ala lehulehu a waiwai hoʻi o ka hōʻike ʻana iā ia. Me nā kala a me nā onaona o ka meaʻai o kahi Mexico kūwaho, ʻo ka tortilla, me ka maʻalahi maʻalahi ʻole, ka protagonist o nā kīʻaha, a me kequila a me ka chili, ka hōʻailona culinary e hōʻike ana i ka Mexico.
Akā i ka manawa, ma hea a pehea i hānau ai ka tortilla? ʻO kona kumu i ʻelemakule ai i ʻike ʻole ʻia kona ʻike. Eia nō naʻe, ʻike mākou e pili ana ka mōʻaukala pre-Hispanic i ka palaoa a ma kekahi mau kaʻao a me nā kaʻao ʻike mākou i nā kūmole like ʻole i kēia.
I ka panalāʻau o Chalco ua ʻōlelo ʻia ua iho mai nā akua mai ka lani a kahi ana, kahi a Piltzintecutli i moe ai me Xochiquétzal; mai ia hui ʻana ua hānau ʻia ʻo Tzentéotl, ke akua o ka palaoa, nāna i kiʻi ma lalo o ka honua a hāʻawi i nā ʻanoʻano ʻē aʻe i ka ʻaoʻao; mai kona lauoho mai ka pulupulu, mai kona mau manamana lima ka ʻuala a mai kona mau kui kekahi ʻano kulina. No kēia kumu, ua ʻōlelo ke akua ka mea i aloha nui ʻia o nā mea āpau a ua kapa lākou iā ia he "haku aloha."
ʻO kahi ala ʻē aʻe e hoʻokokoke ai i ke kumu e kālailai i kona pilina me Tlaxcala, nona ka inoa ʻo "wahi o ka tortilla kulina."
ʻAʻole wale ia e hoʻokipa mai ka Hale Aupuni o Tlaxcala iā mākou me nā kiʻi mural kahi e kū ai ka mōʻaukala ma o ka palaoa. Hiki iā mākou ke kuhi i ke kumu o ka tortilla ma kēia ʻāina?
No ka hoʻāʻo ʻana e wehewehe i ka mea pohihihi, ua hele mākou e ʻimi i ke kumu ʻo Desiderio Hernández Xochitiotzin, kahi muralist a me ka mea kākau moʻolelo i aloha nui ʻia no Tlaxcala.
Aia ʻo Master Xochitiotzin i mua o kāna mural, e hāʻawi ana i kahi haʻiʻōlelo. Ua ʻaʻahu ʻia i ke ʻano o Diego Rivera, pōkole, me ka ʻili ʻeleʻele a me nā hiʻohiʻona ʻōiwi ona, ua hoʻomanaʻo ʻo ia iā mākou i kahi ʻāpana o ka mōʻaukala e koi ana e ola.
"He kahiko loa ke kumu o ka tortilla - haʻi ke kumu iā mākou - a he hiki ʻole ke ʻōlelo ʻia ma kahi i hana ʻia ai, ʻoiai loaʻa pū ka tortilla ma ke awāwa ʻo Mekiko, Toluca a me Michoacán."
He aha ke ʻano o nā aʻa ʻōlelo o Tlaxcala iā mākou i ia manawa?
"Kāhea ʻia ʻo Tlaxcala pēlā no ka mea aia ia ma kahi kūikawā loa: ma ka ʻaoʻao hikina nā mauna ʻo Malitzin a i ʻole Malinche. Piʻi ka lā ma laila a napoʻo i ke komohana, ma ka puʻu ʻo Tláloc. A e like me ka hele ʻana o ka lā, pēlā nō ka ua. Kuhi ʻia kahi e kahi kanu kanu maikaʻi loa; no laila ka inoa ʻo Tierra de Maíz. He ʻumi a he ʻumikūmākahi kaukani mau makahiki paha ka nui o nā archaeologists, akā ʻaʻole ia kahi wale nō, aia kekahi mau mea.
ʻO ka hōʻailona i hōʻike ʻia i nā mural o ka haku Desiderio, pena ʻia ma nā pio ma ka puka o ka Hale Aliʻi - kahi hale kenekulia 16, kahi i noho ai ʻo Hernán Cortés -, e kamaʻilio mai iā mākou i ka waiwai nui o ka kulina i ka mua o ka Hispanic honua. Ua synthesize ke kumu iā ia e like me kēia: “ʻO Corn ka lā no ka mea no loko mai ke ola. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Legend i iho ʻo Quetzalcóatl i Mictlán, kahi o ka poʻe i make, a ma laila ʻo ia i lawe ai i kekahi iwi o ke kāne a me ka wahine a hele aku e ʻike i ke akua wahine ʻo Coatlicue. Kūleʻa ke akua wahine i ka palaoa a me nā iwi lepo hoʻi, a mai kēlā pāpaʻi ua hana ʻo Quetzalcóatl i nā kāne. ʻO ia ke kumu o kā lākou ʻai nui ka palaoa ”.
ʻO nā mural o ka haku Xochitiotzin e haʻi aku me ka noʻonoʻo akamai i ka mōʻaukala o Tlaxcala ma o ka palaoa a me ka maguey, nā mea kanu nui ʻelua no ka hoʻomohala moʻomeheu o kēia mau lāhui: ʻo Teochichimecas Texcaltecas kahiko, nā haku o nā Texcales, ke lilo lākou i poʻe mahi kulina nui. Ua hāʻawi lākou i ko lākou homeland i ka inoa ʻo Tlaxcallan, ʻo ia hoʻi, ka ʻāina o ka Tlaxcallis a i ʻole ka ʻāina kulina.
ʻO kā mākou ʻimi ʻana i nā kumu o ka tortilla ʻaʻole e pau ma aneʻi, a i ka pō e hele mākou i Ixtenco, kahi kūlanakauhale ʻo Otomí ma Tlaxcala i ʻike ʻia i mua o ko mākou mau maka e like me kahi ʻuhane, me kona mau alanui lōʻihi a mehameha.
ʻO Mrs. Josefa Gabi de Melchor, i ʻike ʻia a puni ʻo Tlaxcala no kāna humuhumu maikaʻi ʻana, ke kakali nei iā mākou ma kona hale. Ma kanawalu makahiki, wili ʻo Doña Gabi i kāna palaoa me ka ikaika ma ka metate, ua hoʻomālamalama ke kolo a ʻeleʻele hou ka uahi i ka lumi, anuanu loa a ʻoluʻolu nā ʻala o nā wahie kuni iā mākou me ka mehana. ʻLelo ʻo ia iā mākou me ka nīnau ʻole i kekahi mea. E wili wau iā lākou a hana i kā lākou mau tortilla. Ma hope ua hoʻomaka ka mīkini, a hoʻokahi o koʻu mau kaikoʻeke. I kekahi lā ua ʻōlelo mai ʻo ia iaʻu: "He aha kāu hana ma laila, e ka wahine, e hoʻopau ana ʻoe i kāu metate" ". Ma kahi ʻano kuʻuna, ma ka hale o Doña Gabi a me Don Guadalupe Melchor, kāna kāne, kanu ʻia ke kulina; mālama ʻia i ka cuexcomate a waiho ʻia e hoʻomaloʻo, a ʻoki ʻia ma hope. I ka nīnau ʻana inā ua hoʻokumu ʻia ka tortilla ma Tlaxcala, pane ka wahine: "ʻAʻole, ua hoʻomaka ma aneʻi, no ka mea, ua hoʻokumu ʻia ʻo Ixtenco ma mua o Tlaxcala. ʻLelo ka poʻe i kekahi mea, akā ʻo ka kaao o ke kaona kēlā. ʻO ka mea maikaʻi ʻaʻole makemake kekahi e wili hou, maʻa lākou i ke kūʻai ʻana. Makemake ʻoe i paʻakai hou i kāu tortilla? ”. ʻOiai ʻo ia e kamaʻilio pū ana me mākou, ʻai mākou i kekahi mau tortilla ma kahi o ka comal. Nānā mākou iā Dona Gabi e hana nei me kēlā ʻano, a me ka luhi ʻole, o ka wili ʻana i ka metate. "Nānā, pēlā e wili ai." ʻO ka ikehu maʻemaʻe, manaʻo wau. A luhi paha ke hana i nā tortilla? "No ka poʻe i ʻike mua i ka wili, ʻaʻole."
Hele mālie ka pō, e ʻike nei ma waena o nā hāmau e hūnā i kahi ʻāpana poina o Mekiko, kahi mea kaiāulu e ola nei ma muli o ka hoʻomanaʻo waha o nā poʻe a me kā lākou mau kuʻuna. ʻO ka hoʻomanaʻo ʻana i nā pilau o ka uahi a me ka nixtamal e waiho pū me mākou, nā lima ikaika ma ka metate a me ke ʻano ʻōiwi o ka Otomí. I ke kakahiaka, hoʻomālamalama nā māla ma lalo o ka lani polū o Tlaxcala, kahi me ka lua pele ʻo La Malintzin, e hoʻokuʻu iā mākou mai ka ʻāina mau o ka lā kulina.
Puna: Un Mexico Mexico No. 298 / Kekemapa 2001
