E heluhelu i kēia moʻolelo mōʻī o ka huakaʻi i Espinazo del Diablo, ma ka Sierra Madre Occidental, ma Durango.
Ke haʻi hou mai kekahi i ka huaʻōlelo "Espinazo del Diablo" i ke kaʻina o ke kamaʻilio ʻana, ʻike mākou e hoʻomaka kahi moʻolelo kahi i pili ai nā pilikia. pīhoihoi a me ka pīhoihoi. Ma mua koke iho e kū wau i ka pilikia o ka hele ʻana e launa me ia ke nīnau aku ka mea hoʻokele o kahi kaʻa pākī i nā mea kaʻa: "Makemake anei ʻoe e hele a hele a hele pū paha i ka diabolō a ka Diabolo me aʻu."
ʻO mākou nō i ka ʻāpana kiʻekiʻe a weliweli loa o ka mea i kēlā mau makahiki i koe kahi āpau i hele aku mai ke awa kū lā o Mazatlán a i ke kūlanakauhale ʻo Durango. Hoʻomaopopo wau ua haʻi mai koʻu makuahine iaʻu, me kēlā ʻano kolohe ʻākau i hōʻike mau ʻia iā ia: "Mai neʻe, e iho i lalo kou mau collones." Hoʻomau mākou i ka hele, kuiki ka hakahaka, ma ka ʻaoʻao o ke ala i nānā aku ai ka poʻe mākaʻikaʻi i nā puka aniani a pili i nā pale o ko lākou mau noho. Ua hele a kuli ka leo o ka ʻenekini, hele aku nā wahine iā lākou iho a paʻa ka Hail Mary i ko lākou waha. Hāʻawi ke kaʻa ʻōhua i ka huki hope loa, haʻalulu ke kino, manaʻo wau i kēlā manawa ʻo mākou hele mākou i ka pali… Akā ua haʻalele mākou a hala kekahi mau kilomita ma hope ua hiki mākou i kahi pā liʻiliʻi. E hoʻomaka ana ka lā e napoo.
ʻUā ka mea hoʻokele: "Ua hōʻea mākou i ke kūlanakauhale, e hoʻomaha ana mākou i kekahi mau minuke." Ua puka mākou i waho o ke kalaka, ua komo mai ka hau hau keʻokeʻo, keʻokeʻo a palupalu hoʻi i koʻu mau kāmaʻa, ua hoʻokalakupua ka ʻāina. Ua hele ka mea kalaiwa i kekahi o nā hale i kūkulu ʻia me nā lāʻau, hōʻike ke kapuahi i nā hōʻailona o ke ola, me he mea lā wela, ʻoiai ʻaʻole anuanu ke anuanu. Aia mākou i "ke kūlanakauhale", i kahi kauhale liʻiliʻi o nā lumberjacks i kēlā mau makahiki i hemo loa ʻia mai ka honua.
Ua puni mākou i nā ulu lāʻau ʻoka a me nā paina, ʻo ka hapa nui o ʻO Sierra Madre Occidental, ma luna e piʻi ai ka hakahaka, mālama mau i kona mau mea kanu. ʻAʻole i haku ʻia ka huaʻōlelo "biodiversity" a ʻo nā pilikia o ka nāhelehele ʻana, ʻoiai he mea nui ia, ʻaʻole koʻikoʻi e like me kēia manawa. Me he ala ala wale nō ka noʻonoʻo ke lohi.
ʻAʻole au i ʻike inā he hale ʻaina a i ʻole hale ʻaina, ʻo ka ʻoiaʻiʻo ka hana ʻana o ka pā a me ka lumi kuke i ka manawa like, e lawelawe ana i nā kamaʻāina a me nā poʻe e like me mākou, e holoholo ma kēlā ala huakaʻi liʻiliʻi. ʻO ka papa kuhikuhi i hoʻopaʻa ʻia me ka pipi i kalua ʻia, jerky, beans, a me ka raiki. Ma kekahi kihi, ʻekolu mau mea e hele pū ana me kahi kika e mele ana i ka holo ʻia e Benjamín Argumedo. Noho mākou ma kahi pākaukau me ka papa ʻaina ʻulaʻula a me keʻokeʻo.
Ua hele mai kekahi mau huakaʻi ʻē aʻe i koʻu noʻonoʻo: ʻo ka mea a mākou i hana ai i mau makahiki i hala aku nei e kipa aku iā Yucatán ma hope o ke alaloa kahakai, ʻaʻohe o nā alahaka a ʻo nā mea e hele i nā kahawai e hana mākou iā ia ma pangas; ka huakaʻi weliweli mai Tapachula a Tijuana ma luna o nā kaʻaahi i kēlā mau lā i hana i ka huakaʻi i nā lā he nui; ka huakaʻi i Monte Alban i a ʻO ka huakaʻi ʻo Mexico-Oaxaca ʻoiai he prologue mau kaukani keu ma ke ala. Lōʻihi kēlā mau huakaʻi āpau, luhi hoʻi, piha i nā pūʻiwa a me nā nuances, akā i loko o kekahi o lākou ʻaʻole mākou i kahi mehameha a mehameha. I ka haʻalele ʻana o nā kāne e mele ana, ua hele au i ka puka e ʻike pehea lākou i nalowale i ka mānoanoa o ka ululāʻau.
Ma hope iki o ka hoʻomau ʻana i kā mākou ala e lawe iā mākou i Durango a laila i ke kūlanakauhale ʻo Parral, Chihuahua. I ka wā i ʻoi aku ai ke anuanu, hoʻi mākou i ke ala like, ʻaʻole i kū hou ka mea hoʻokele ma "ke kūlanakauhale", i ka wanaʻao e like me ke kūlanakauhale ʻuhane. Ua kāhāhā ʻo El Espinazo iā mākou, hiamoe iki i ka wā e hele aʻe ana i kāna piko, me ka hoʻopuka ʻole ʻana i kahi ʻōlelo. Ua hala nā makahiki he nui a ʻaʻole wau i ʻike i kekahi i hele i ke kua o ka diabolō i loko o kahi kalaka ʻoʻoleʻa, i kekahi manawa manaʻo wau ʻaʻole i loaʻa kēia ala a ʻo nā mea āpau nā huahana o kahi huakaʻi noʻonoʻo i ka puʻuwai o ka mauna mauna ʻo Durango.
