Ma nā kapa o kēia kahawai ikaika o nā wai polū turquoise, kahi huahana o nā mineral calcareous i hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i loko o lākou, e noho nei i nā kaiāulu Tzeltal ʻōiwi. Ma laila e kū ai kā mākou moʻolelo ...
Ua nānā ka huakaʻi ma ʻekolu o kēia mau kaiāulu e ʻālohilohi nei no kā lākou waiwai kūlohelohe a moʻomeheu: San Jerónimo Tulijá, San Marcos a me Joltulijá. Ua hoʻokumu ʻia lākou e Tzeltales mai Bachajón, Chilón, Yajalón a me nā wahi ʻē aʻe, i ka ʻimi ʻana i ka ʻāina e mahi, hānai i kā lākou holoholona a noho pū me ko lākou mau ʻohana, ua loaʻa kahi kūpono e noho ai ma kapa o ka muliwai. Hiki ke ʻōlelo ʻia he ʻōpio ʻōpio kēia ʻekolu, ʻoiai ua hoʻokumu ʻia ia mau mea i ka makahiki 1948, akā ʻaʻole ka moʻolelo moʻomeheu o kona poʻe i hoʻi i ka wā kahiko.
San Jerónimo Tulijá, kahi e hīmeni ai ka wai
Ma kahi o ʻekolu mau makahiki i hala aku nei, ua hōʻea i kēia wahi mai Palenque ma kahi o ʻelua mau hola, ʻoiai ke ala e manaʻo ʻia e hoʻohui i nā kaiāulu o ka ululāʻau me ke Alanui Border Hema, ma ka waena o kahi piko, lilo i alanui lepo weliweli. I kēia manawa ua hoʻoliʻiliʻi ʻia ka huakaʻi i hoʻokahi hola mahalo i ka ʻike ʻia o ke ala i pāheʻe ʻia a aia wale nō kekahi mau kilomita o ke ākea mai ka huli ma Crucero Piñal a San Jerónimo.
He kaumaha ke ʻike aku i ka nahelehele i hana ʻole ʻia i kekahi manawa, ua lilo i kēia lā i mau paddock. E ola wale kekahi ke ʻike ʻo ia e mālama mau nā kaiāulu, e kalaunu ana i ko lākou mau kauhale, nā kuahiwi i pahū me ke ola. ʻO nā puʻuhonua i noho mau i ka ululāʻau, ma muli paha o ko lākou ʻano kapu e like me nā kuahiwi ola, no ka paʻakikī o kā lākou mahiʻai, a i ʻole no ka hui pū o nā mea ʻelua. ʻO kēia mau kuahiwi kahi home o nā ʻano holoholona he mau kaukani e like me ka monika sarahuato, ka jaguar, ka nahesa weliweli ʻo Nauyaca, a me ka tepezcuincle, kahi e ʻimi ai ka poʻe i ka meaʻai. Aia kekahi mau lāʻau nunui e like me chicle, ceiba, mahogany a me ant, ka lāʻau hope i hana ʻia ai nā marimbas. Hele nā Tzeltal i ke kuahiwi e ʻimi a hōʻiliʻili i nā mea kanu ʻāhiu e like me chapay, ka hua o ka pāmaʻi ʻoi, me nā tortillas, nā pī, raiki, kope a me nā hua moa, ke kumu o kā lākou papaʻai.
Ka hōʻea ʻana i San Jerónimo ...
Ua hōʻea mākou i ka pō i ka wā o ka symphony nocturnal nui, hou a pau ʻole hoʻi, ua holomua. Hoʻokumu nā kaukani ʻalekika he mele mele e holomua i nā nalu hiki ʻole ke wānana ʻia. Lohe ʻia ma hope o nā toads, makemake lākou i ka bass paʻakikī, hīmeni me ka leo hohonu a me ka lethargic rhythm. Koke, e like me ka mea nona ka soloist, lohe ʻia ka halulu ikaika o ka sarahuato.
ʻO San Jerónimo kahi kaiāulu me nā wahi o ka nani kūlohelohe e kono i ka noʻonoʻo luhi ʻole i ka hoʻolohe ʻana i ke mele hoʻomaha o ka wai. 200 mau mika wale nō mai ke kahua nui nā kahawai ʻo Tulijá. I hiki iā lākou, pono ʻoe e hele i kahi kai liʻiliʻi e lawelawe ana, i kēia manawa ke kaomi nei ka wela, ma ke ʻano he wahi hālāwai no nā poʻe o nā makahiki āpau. Hele mai ke kāne tatiketic (ʻelemakule kāne i ke kaiāulu) e ʻauʻau ma hope o kā lākou hana ma nā kula. Hiki mai nā keiki a me nā ʻōpio ʻike ʻole i ka palena o ka poʻe e noho ana i ke kūlanakauhale a pono e noho ma ka home; hele nā wahine e holoi lole; a noho pū ka poʻe āpau e nanea ana i ka hou o ka wai. I ka waenakonu o ka pūnāwai, aia ke kahawai i kahi pae haʻahaʻa, hiki ke hele i ka pale o nā kumu semi-aquatic, nā trampoline improvised no ka poʻe ʻōpio, a iho i waena o nā wailele nani a keʻokeʻo.
Wailele ʻo Betani
Ma kahi o hoʻokahi kilomita mai San Jerónimo, e hele ana i nā paddock he nui i piha i nā ticks i loko o ko mākou kino e hoʻāʻo e komo i nā wahi i kū pinepine ʻole ka lā iā mākou, aia kēia mau wailele. He laʻana lākou no ka ʻano o ka Agua Azul - he mau mile i lalo ke kahe - ma mua o ka hoʻouka kaua ʻana. Maʻaneʻi e hui pū nā wai polū o ka muliwai ʻo Tulijá me nā wai anuanu o ke kahawai i ʻike ʻia ʻo Kʻankʻanjá (muliwai melemele), nona ke kala gula i loaʻa mai nā limu i hānau ʻia ma nā pōhaku keʻokeʻo ma lalo, kahi e pili ai hoʻohuli ka lā o ka lā i kahi amber hohonu. I loko o kēia paradaiso, kahi e nohoaliʻi ai ka maluhia, hiki ke ʻike ʻia nā kāne pākahi e wīwī nei i ko lākou uē ʻana a me nā nuku kaumaha i ka lewa, ʻoiai e ʻau ana i nā loko wai hohonu kahi e hoʻomaha ai ka wai ma mua o ka hāʻule ʻole ʻana.
Uapo Kūlohelohe
ʻO ia kahi pūnaewele ʻē aʻe hiki ʻole ke nalo ma kēia mau ʻaoʻao. Ma ʻaneʻi i hele aku ai ka mana o Tulijá ma waena o kahi mauna, mai luna mai hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike ma kekahi ʻaoʻao o ka muliwai e hoʻouka i kona mau paia e komo i loko, a ma kekahi ʻaoʻao, ka wai me ka maluhia e puka mai ana mai kahi ana e ukali ana i kāna papa . I ka hele ʻana i ke ana, iho mākou i ka pali pali o ka puʻu, a ma hope o ka luʻu hou ʻana, hoʻolaʻa mākou iā mākou iho e mahalo i ka wahi. Mai lalo mai ka nānā ʻana he enigmatic ia mai luna, no ka mea ʻaʻole hiki i kekahi ke hāpai pehea i hana ʻia ai kahi tunnel ma o ka nui o nā pōhaku a me ka palaki.
Ma San Jerónimo, kahi papa momona o nā pīni palupalu me ka chapay, me nā tortillas hou i hana ʻia, e kakali iā mākou ma ka hale o Nantik Margarita. ʻO ka nantik (kahi huaʻōlelo ʻo ia ka "makuahine o kēlā me kēia", hāʻawi ʻia i nā wahine no ko lākou mau makahiki a me nā pono e ke kaiāulu) kahi wahine maikaʻi a minoʻaka, a me ka ikaika a me ke akamai, nāna mākou i hoʻokipa maikaʻi i kona home.
San Marcos
Inā mākou e lawe i kēia wahi micro o ʻekolu mau kaiāulu me he mea lā e noho ana lākou i ke kino o ka muliwai, ʻo San Marcos ma ko lākou mau wāwae. E hele ma laila mākou e hele i ke ala lepo like e hiki aku ai iā San Jerónimo mai Crucero Piñal e hele ana i ka ʻākau, a ma kahi o 12 mau mile wale nō mākou e ʻike ai i ke kaiāulu. He ranchería ʻoi aku ka liʻiliʻi ma mua o San Jerónimo, maliʻa no kēia kumu i ʻike ʻia ai ke ʻano a me ka nohona o ia wahi i hoʻohui ʻia i loko o ka puni a puni.
He mau pale pale pua nā hale i mua o ko lākou pā alo kahi e heʻe aku ai nā holoholona. ʻO nā hoaaloha maikaʻi loa a ke kāne he moa, kūpō, a puaʻa hoʻi, e holoholo wale nei ma nā alanui a me nā hale.
I ka hui o kā mākou alakaʻi alakaʻi luhi ʻole a me nā hoaaloha, Andrés lāua ʻo Sergio, ua hele mākou e ʻike i kā lākou mea huna e hoʻomaka me kā lākou mau wailele. Ma kēia ʻāpana e hoʻonui nui ana kona kahe a hiki i ka 30 mika ākea ka laulā, kahi e hoʻopili ai i nā kahawai. I hiki ai i kēia wahi pono mākou e hele i luna a ma kekahi mau manawa kokoke i ke kauō ʻana ma mua o hoʻokahi, akā ʻo ka hiʻona e kali nei iā mākou he mea kūpono i ka pilikia.
Ma ke alo o kahi ʻano pōhaku kolosala i kalai pono ʻia e ka wai, e hoʻohālike ana i nā kaha kīwaha o kahi pyramid Mayan i hoʻopau ʻia e ka mauna, ʻo ia ka wailele nui loa o ka ʻāina. Holo wikiwiki ʻo ia mai ke kiʻekiʻe a hana i kahi mantra nāna mākou i hoʻowai i loko o nā loko ma mua o ka wailele kahi ʻike hou e hana i ka hoʻi paʻakikī ma kēlā ʻaoʻao o ka muliwai.
E hoʻopau i kā mākou kipa iā San Marcos, hele mākou i kahi i hānau ʻia ai kona pūnāwai. ʻO ka huakaʻi pōkole mai ke kaiāulu ma waena o kahi kahawai i kāwili ʻia me nā hulu muliwai i ʻike ʻia ʻo puy, kahi e kuke ai ka poʻe me nā lau. Hoʻomalu ʻia e nā domic Organic gigantic e hāʻawi i kahi pale humuhū, i kāhiko ʻia e nā pua e like me nā orchids, bromeliads, a me nā mea kanu ʻē aʻe e hōʻike ana i nā aʻa lewa lōʻihi loa e hele ana mai nā kiʻekiʻe a i ka honua, ua hōʻea mākou i kahi e wai ai nā wai. Aia ma laila kahi lāʻau kiʻekiʻe loa a mākou i ʻike ai, he ceiba nunui ma kahi o 45 mau mika, ʻaʻole ia e kauoha wale i ka mahalo i ka nui o ka nui, akā no nā kākalaioa kakalaioa ma kona kumu.
ʻO Joltulijá, ke kumu
ʻO Joltulijá (ke poʻo o ka muliwai o nā lāpaki) kahi e loaʻa ai ke kumu o ke ola e mālama i ke kumu o nā lehulehu Tzeltal a mākou e kipa aku ai: ʻo ka muliwai ʻo Tulijá. Ma kahi o 12 mau mile ma ka hema o Crucero Piñal, a e like me San Marcos, he kūlanakauhale liʻiliʻi ia i mālama i kāna koena me ke kūlohelohe. ʻO kona kikowaena kikowaena i hoʻonani ʻia e ʻekolu mau kia hoʻomanaʻo i ke kūlohelohe, kekahi mau lāʻau ceiba e hāʻawi i ko lākou malu anuanu i ka mea kipa.
I mea e loaʻa ai ke komo manuahi i ke kaiāulu, pono e hele i nā luna, ka mea nui tatiketik, e noi i ka ʻae. Me ke kōkua o Andrés, ka mea i hana ma ke ʻano he mea unuhi mai ka ʻōlelo a ka poʻe Paniolo liʻiliʻi, ua hele mākou me Tatik Manuel Gómez, kekahi o nā mea hoʻokumu, i ʻae ʻoluʻolu iā mākou, ua kono iā mākou e hele pū me ia ʻoiai ʻo ia e hana ana a haʻi iā mākou e pili ana i ka hanana i ua hopu ʻia ʻo ia e nā luna kuʻuna no ka hana ʻana i ka wai ʻona (pose), e loaʻa ana ma ke ʻano he hoʻopaʻi i koe no ka lā holoʻokoʻa i luna o kahi lāʻau.
Mai ke kikowaena o ke kaiāulu, kahi o kahi i hānau ʻia ai ka muliwai ma kahi o kahi kilomita ke mamao, e hele ana i kekahi mau milpas a me nā ʻāpana i nā ʻāina momona o kahakai. Pau koke nā hoʻolālā ma hope o ka mauna no ka mea pāpā ʻia ka ʻoki ʻana i ka mauna a ʻau i kahi e kahe ai ka wai. Pēlā ma waena o nā kumulāʻau, nā pōhaku a me ka hāmau, wehe ka mauna i kona waha liʻiliʻi e ʻae i ka wai e pakele mai ka hohonu o kona naʻau. Kupanaha loa ka ʻike ʻana i kahi wehe haʻahaʻa e hāpai i kahi muliwai hanohano. Ma luna pono o ka waha aia kahi heiau me ke keʻa kahi e hoʻokō ai ka poʻe i kā lākou mau hana, e hāʻawi ana i kahi hoʻokalakupua a hoʻomana hoʻi i kēlā wahi haʻahaʻa.
He mau kapuwaʻi wale nō mai ke kumu, wehe nā kaiāulu kaiāulu ma ka muliwai. ʻO kēia mau lagoon i kāpīpī ʻia e nā mea kanu wai e hoʻonaninani ana i ko lākou lalo a me nā panakō, kahi ʻano hoihoi e ʻike ʻole ʻia ma kahawai. He akāka kupaianaha ka wai e ʻae iā ʻoe e ʻike i ka lalo mai kekahi kihi āu e nānā ai me ka nānā ʻole i ka hohonu. ʻOi aku ka liʻiliʻi o ka turquoise polū o ka muliwai, akā ua kāwili ʻia me nā nuances ʻōmaʻomaʻo āpau e like me nā mea kanu a me nā pōhaku i ka honua.
Pēlā mākou e hoʻopau ai i kā mākou ʻike i ka wahi maikaʻi ʻo Tzeltal o ka muliwai ʻo Tulijá, ma laila kahi e kūʻē ai ka ʻuhane o ka puʻuwai a me ke kūlohelohe i ka manawa, e like me ke mele mau loa o ka wai a me nā lau ʻōmaʻomaʻo mau o nā kumulāʻau.
ʻO nā Tzeltals
He poʻe lākou i pale aku i nā kenekulia, e mālama nei i kā lākou ʻōlelo a me ka moʻomeheu i ke ola, i ka dynamism a me ka loli mau, e hakakā ana ma waena o ka moʻomeheu hoʻoilina a me nā hoʻohiki o kēia ao a me ka holomua. ʻO kona kumu i kuhikuhi iā mākou i ka Mei kahiko, ʻoiai hiki ke ʻike i kā lākou ʻōlelo - piha me nā manaʻo mau i ka puʻuwai ma ke ʻano he kumu o ke ʻano a me ke akamai - kahi mana Nahuatl iki. "He mamo mākou na ka poʻe Mayan," i haʻi haʻaheo aku ai ʻo Marcos, ke kuhina hope o ke kula kiʻekiʻe ʻo San Jerónimo iā mākou, "ʻoiai he pae kiʻekiʻe ko lākou no ka ʻike, ʻaʻole like me mākou." Pēlā e hoʻokiʻekiʻe ai i kēlā hihiʻo o kahi hoʻohanohano idealistic a ka hapanui o mākou e pili ana i ka poʻe Maya.
Puna: Un Mexico Mexico No. 366 / ʻAukake 2007
