ʻO kēia kahi hoʻokupu i kēlā poʻe wiwo ʻole kaulana - ʻōpio a ʻelemakule - ka mea, i kēlā me kēia kakahiaka, ala aʻe me ka manaʻo paʻa o ka hoʻopiʻi ʻana (a me ka lanakila ʻana) i nā nalu o ka Pacific Pacific.
I ka poʻe protagonists o kēia memo, ua hāʻawi ʻo Puerto Escondido iā lākou i ka manawa kūpono e pāʻani ai ma kā lākou papa, ma waena o kā lākou nalu a me kā lākou hoʻonohonoho i kēlā manawa, ulu, ʻike kekahi i kekahi a ʻike i ka mamao o kā lākou hiki ke hele. Me ke koa a me ka ʻuhane koa, ua hoʻokele lākou i nā nalu e ʻū ana o Zicatela a wehewehe i ka mea pohihihi o ke ola.
Ma waena o kēia mau huapalapala e ʻike ai mākou i nā kiʻi i ʻike ʻia ma waho o kā mākou palena, a me nā mea hana keaka o kēlā me kēia lā mai Puerto Escondido, akā ʻo nā mea āpau, like pū kekahi, makemake nui iā ia heʻe nalu a ʻono i ka leʻaleʻa o ka holo ʻana ma nā nalu e ʻū ana o kēia paradaiso tropical. E ʻike kākou i ka mea e mau ana i ka pāʻani, e wehewehe nei i ke ala a ʻo wai ka mea i hōʻea i ka lokomaikaʻi o ke kūleʻa e walaʻau: Lottery!
ʻAʻole ʻo ia i hele mai e ʻike inā hiki iā ia, inā ʻaʻole no ka hiki iā ia ke hele mai ... ʻO ke koa! / Carlos “Coco” Nogales
ʻO ka moʻolelo o "Coco" Nogales he hōʻike ia no ka hoʻokele, ka wiwo ʻole a me ka wiwo ʻole. Ua ulu a kōkua ʻole ʻo Carlos, akā me ka hoʻoholo paʻa ʻole a me ka hōʻiliʻili ʻana i ka ikaika, ke ʻano e noho ana i ka ʻuhane o ka koa, ua hōʻea ʻo ia i Puerto Escondido i ka makahiki 11, ʻo ia wale nō. Ma laila ʻo ia i loaʻa ai nā hoaaloha, hale a me nā meaʻai no ke kino a me ka ʻuhane. Ma hope o ka hele ʻana i loko o nā hoʻololi ʻana he nui, i kēia lā ua ʻōlelo ʻo Coco penei: “Ua hāʻawi mai ke ola iaʻu i nā hoʻokolohua paʻakikī, he nui loa nā mea, i kēia manawa, ʻaʻole maopopo iaʻu ʻo wai ka mea nui loa. Akā ʻo ka mea nui ka ala ʻana i luna, hoʻomau i ke ola piha a piha. Noʻu, ʻo ka mea maikaʻi loa ke heʻe nalu a ʻo ka mea maikaʻi loa e pili ana i kēia haʻuki ke lawe ʻoe i kahi paipu me ka puka, ʻaʻole hiki ke wehewehe ”.
Hoʻopili nā nalu ʻo Oaxacan i kēia kanaka koa a alakaʻi iā ia e ʻike i kona hiki maoli. ʻO ka hopena ua lilo ʻo ia i mea Mekiko i mahalo nui ʻia i ka honua o ka heʻenalu ʻana no kona mākaukau a me ka wiwo ʻole e kū i ke alo o ka titan invincible, ke kai. Ua lanakila ʻo ia ma ke kime ʻO Ride Award ʻo Billabong o ka makahiki, ka hoʻokūkū hanohano ʻoi loa i ka Kaʻa Wave Nui. "Coco", ua pau kāu papa. Lottery!
Mai ke kai, ka grouper, a mai Puerto Escondido ... El Curandero! / Miguel Ramírez
No Buenos Aires ʻo ia a ʻike ʻia kona inoa i kēia mau lā i nā ʻāina he nui o ka honua mahalo i kāna tālena a me kona hiki ke hoʻoponopono i nā papa heʻe nalu.
Ua hoʻomaka ia i ka wā i hana ai nā nalu o Zicatela i kā lākou mea me kā Mika papa i ko lākou wā kamaliʻi. No laila, me kēlā mau ʻāpana, haʻalele ʻo ia i ke kai a hoʻi i ka home me ka manaʻo paʻa ʻaʻole e nalo i kāna hoa i kāna huakaʻi. Ua hana ʻia i ke one, fiberglass, kēpau a ʻo ke koena ka mōʻaukala.
Ua lohe ʻia i ka makahiki 2003 ʻO Miguel Ramirez ʻuwā: "Lottery!", a ʻo ia ma hope o kekahi mau makahiki o ka hana a hoʻolaʻa ʻana, ua wehe ʻo ia i kāna ʻoihana Hoʻokahi hou aku, kahi inoa i hānau ʻia i ʻelua mau makahiki i hala aku nei i kona hōʻea ʻana i Zicatela i kāna "kaʻa" ʻulaʻula a hoʻomaka e loaʻa nā papa e hoʻoponopono. E piʻi ʻo ia i "nā wahine maʻi" i ka uhi ʻana o kāna kaʻa a ke manaʻo ʻo ia e loaʻa nā mea āpau iā ia, e hoʻomaka ʻo ia, akā a laila, ua kū ʻia ʻo ia e kahi ʻuā e ʻōlelo ana: "kekahi!", A mai ka hoʻomaka e hoʻomaka ai a mai ka ʻuā e uē, hele mai e hoʻouka i nā papa he 30 ma luna o ke kaʻa o kāna kaʻa. I kēia lā he ʻelua kāna mau keiki āna i aʻo ai e heʻe nalu, e hauʻoli ana i nā manawa kupaianaha loa. Hana ʻo Mike i nā mea āpau e hala i kāna hōʻike nui loa me 10, he makuakāne maikaʻi. I kēia manawa, noho hauʻoli ʻo ia i kēia Paradaiso ʻo Buenos Aires āna i ʻōlelo ai, ua hāʻawi iā ia i nā mea āpau i ke ola a ʻaʻole ia i manaʻo e haʻalele.
Na ke Akua e hoʻokuʻu iaʻu mai ka wai mālie, nāna wau i hoʻokuʻu mai ka poʻe koa ... Nā ʻānela kiaʻi! / Godofredo Vázquez
ʻO ka ʻO Heroic Lifeguard Corps o Puerto Escondido Hoʻomaopopo ākea ʻia ia i ko mākou ʻāina, no laila ʻo kāna mau hana e pili ana i nā papa aʻo e hoʻopakele ai i nā mokuʻāina like ʻole o ka Repubalika.
Nui ka ʻike o kēia hui hoʻopakele hoʻopunipuni i ke kōkua mua a me ke ʻano ʻauʻau, ʻike lākou i ke ʻano o ke kai me ka maikaʻi a i kēlā me kēia lā, mai nā hola mua loa, hiki ke ʻike ʻia lākou ma Zicatela e hana nei i nā hana a me nā mākaʻikaʻi nānā.
Eia he ʻumi mau kāne. Uaʻike lākou i nā hoʻololi a ua hoʻonani iā lākou; ʻaʻole lākou e kānalua no kahi kekona e makaʻu i ko lākou ola e mālama i nā poʻe ʻē aʻe.
ʻO kahi laʻana o ka wiwo ʻole a me ka ʻuhane o ka hui ke kapena, ʻO Godofredo Vazquez, ʻo ia ke alakaʻi o ka hale kiaʻi no nā makahiki he ʻumi, a ʻo ia kona manawa i noho ai i nā manawa hōʻoluʻolu.
Ua wehewehe ʻo "Godo" iā mākou ʻo ka kipa ʻana iā Puerto Escondido e nā mea huakaʻi me ka ʻole o kahi papa e hoʻopilikia i kā lākou poʻe kiaʻi, ʻoiai ʻoiai nā ʻōlelo aʻoaʻo e pili ana i ka pilikia, manaʻo ka hapa nui o nā mea kanu he mana ko lākou e kāpae i nā wai o Zicatela a no laila ʻOiai nā hoʻoikaika ʻana, ʻaʻole hiki ke alo ʻia nā pōpilikia i kekahi manawa.
Ua mālama lākou i nā ola he nui, hoʻolaʻa ʻia i kā lākou nuʻukia a kūpono e ʻike ʻia. Lottery!
ʻO ia e hui me nā ʻīlio hae, e aʻo pehea e kālai ai ... Ka mea hana! / Roger Ramírez
I koʻu mau makahiki 14 ʻO Roger ramirez Ua hoʻomaka ʻo ia i ke kālepa o ka hoʻoponopono ʻana i nā papa heʻe nalu, āna i aʻo ai mai kona mau kaikuaʻana ʻo Juan a me Miguel ("ka mea hoʻōla") a ʻoiai ke ola e koi ana i ka hoʻolaʻa ʻana e hana, ʻaʻole ia i hoʻokū i ka hana koʻikoʻi o ka haku ʻana i nā nalu. o Zicatela. ʻO Roger, ka muli loa o ka ʻohana o nā kaikaina he ʻumi, he laʻana o ke tālena, ka makemake a me ke ahonui, ʻoiai i nā hana ʻelua ua kū ʻo ia a kaulana i ka honua: ʻo ia kekahi o ka hui heʻe nalu a i kēia lā, ʻo ia kekahi o nā nā mea hana i nā papa heʻe nalu i ʻike nui ʻia ma Mekiko.
He heʻenalu nalu ko kāna momoku i alakaʻi ʻia e ka mea nui aʻe a me ka mea ʻole ma lalo o ʻO David Rutherford Y ʻO Oscar Moncada, ka mea ʻike i ka maikaʻi o kā kā lākou mea kākoʻo.
ʻO ia ke kumu e pono ai e hoʻōho mai nā kaupaku: Lottery!
Inā pili pū nā hoalauna, ehia mau mea hou aʻe e noho pū ai ... ʻO ka ʻohana! / Los Corzo a me hoʻokahi hou aku
Jim, mai wili i kaʻu puke noke! Ua ʻuwī wau i koʻu ʻike ʻana iā ia e ʻōniʻu ana a hou hou ma luna o kaʻu mau pepa. “ʻO kāu kuhi hewa ʻole. ʻAʻole ʻo Jim Preswitt koʻu inoa, ʻo kēia koʻu inoa ʻO Jim Corzo"Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia, a laila ua ʻakaʻaka mākou. Ua haʻalele kēia kāne iā Texas a hōʻea i Puerto Escondido wale nō me ka makemake e heʻenalu i nā nalu maikaʻi, akā, e! pūʻiwa, ua aloha aloha ʻo ia i kēlā wahi a me Teresa, me ia i kēia manawa, me ka makemake i ka heʻe nalu ʻana, kaʻana like ʻo ia i ka inoa kapakapa ʻo Corzo a me ke aloha no kāna mau keiki ʻekolu: Angelo, Jimel a me Johnny.
ʻO Corzo ʻē aʻe ʻo Estela, ke kaikuahine o Teresa. Ua hele lāua ʻelua i Puerto Escondido mai Mexico City, 20 mau makahiki i hala aku nei, e hoʻokō i ka mea a Estela i hoʻohiki ai ma 14 i kona wā i kipa aku ai iā Puerto: “E hoʻi wau i kēia wahi a noho wau a noho mau loa. Ua haʻalele ʻo ia i nā mea āpau, a ke ola nei ʻo ia a heʻenalu hauʻoli me kāna mau keiki: ʻo Cristian lāua ʻo Naum, nā mea heʻe nalu nui i ka honua holoʻokoʻa. E ʻuā lākou me ka haʻaheo: Lottery!
No kekahi e ala aʻe i ka wanaʻao, ʻo kahi mea hiamoe ʻole ʻole ... ʻO nā kālena!
ʻO Cristian Corzo lāua ʻo Angelo Lozano
Aia ma waena o kēia poʻe ʻōpio kahi paʻa ʻohana, he mau hoahānau lākou, akā hoʻohui pū ʻia lākou e ke tālena i nā nalu, kahi e hoʻololi ai lākou i nā pae kiʻekiʻe i nā papa alakaʻi i nā hoʻokūkū nui o ka honua.
Hoʻolālā kēia mau prodigies i kā lākou ʻoihana ma ke ʻano he heʻe nalu e nā lele a me nā palena a ʻoiai ʻO Cristian Corzo E ala i ka wanaʻao e piʻi i ka piko o ka nalu a lilo i poʻokela heʻe nalu i ka hoʻokūkū ʻōpio, ʻaʻole hoʻomaha ʻo Ángelo Lozano i kāna mau hana a hele mai i kēia lā ma ke ʻano heʻenalu Mekiko mua loa ma ka maʻa ʻōpio e komo i ka World Cup i hoʻonohonoho ʻia e ka ASP, ka ʻO Billabong ASP World Junior Championship.
Ua wehe ʻo Puerto Escondido i nā puka i ka honua o ka hanohano no Cristian lāua ʻo Angelo, ua hala lākou i kā mākou palena. Mahalo lākou i ko lākou ʻohana a i kēia, ko lākou ʻāina, akā he ʻāpana ko lākou ma ka papa. E hāʻawi ka manawa a me ke ola iā lākou.
ʻO ia kahi parakeet, ma kahi āna e makemake ai he ʻōmaʻomaʻo ... Ke kumu! / Óscar Moncada
ʻO Oscar Moncada Ua heʻenalu ʻo ia i ka wai o Kaleponi, Hawaii, Brazil, Argentina, Chile, Peru a me Pokukala, kahi āna i hōʻike ai hiki iā ia ke haku i nā nalu hanohano. ʻAʻole maopopo ia he aha ia, akā hoʻololi kēia kanaka ke komo ʻo ia i loko o ka wai, me he mea lā ua puka mai kahi ikaika kupaianaha mai ka hohonu o ke kai e komo i kona ʻano a hāʻawi iā ia i ka hiki ke hana, ma kāna papa, nā hana hoʻopunipuni a lākou e makemake ai, no ka mea manawa, kupua.
"ʻO koʻu heʻe nalu maikaʻi loa i ka heʻenalu ʻana i ke kime honua he ʻewalu mau manawa, ʻo Kelly Slater. Mai kona wā ʻōpio ʻo ia kaʻu meʻe… ”Lottery!
E mālama pono inā he ahi ma aneʻi, ʻaʻole lākou e ʻā ... Ke ahi! / ʻO David Rutherford
A i kēia manawa ʻae, e like me ka ʻōlelo a koʻu makuakāne, "eia ka nīnū nui loa i Toothy" a no ka mea ma Puerto Escondido, he poʻe heʻe nalu maikaʻi loa ka poʻe ʻōpio āpau. Ua kaulana ʻo David ma Puerto a ma ka honua.
I loko o kahi ninaninau me ka manawa he ʻumikūmākahi manawa poʻokela heʻe nalu o Peruvian, ʻo Gary Saaverda, ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia nona kekahi o nā mea heʻe nalu ʻoi loa o ALAS (Latin American Surf Association) ʻO David Rutherford, a ʻōlelo nui e pili ana i ke kālena a me ka hiki o kēia ʻōpio.
I ke kai, kahi wale nō ʻo ia a me nā nalu, loaʻa ʻo David i nā manawa o ka maluhia a me ka ulu ʻana. Aia ma laila ke noʻonoʻo ʻo ia e pili ana i nā mea āpau āna e hana ai. E kali mau no nā kāleka e hoʻopiha i kāu papa.
Nui kona aloha iā Puerto, ua manaʻo ʻo ia ʻo ia kahi maikaʻi loa ma ka honua e noho ai a me nā mea āpau āna e hana ai, alakaʻi iā ia i kahi ulu o kona ʻāina, o kāna haʻuki, me ka makemake nui e loaʻa i nā hanauna hou kahi wahi uku maikaʻi ʻia. ulu a loaʻa ka waiwai.
E, e reata, mai huhū ʻoe ʻo kēia ka mile hope hope loa ... La quebrada! / Papa ʻaina champion
ʻAʻole ia ka mea ma Acapulco, ʻaʻole. ʻO kēia awawa kekahi o nā papa he nui i manaʻo i loko o kā lākou fiber ponoʻī ka mana o nā nalu o Zicatela a ua hoʻopau i ko lākou mau lā i haki, haehae ʻia me ka ʻole o ka lāʻau.
Ua hana ʻia kēlā Citlali Calleja, ka heʻenalu heʻenalu nalu o kēia manawa, aia i ke kai i ka wā i huki ai ka ikaika o ka nalu i kona papa, akā ua pili ia i ka kuʻekuʻe wāwae me ka lei (nā kaula uila) a laila, huki ikaika ke kūʻē ʻana o kona kino i kekahi ʻaoʻao a me ka mana o ka nalu i kahi ʻē aʻe, e alakaʻi ana i kāna hoa pono i kēia hopena weliweli.
Ua hānau ʻia kēia porteña kālena a poʻokela hoʻi i Puerto a me ka hoʻokūkū i ka ʻeke a me kahi papa hou, ua komo ʻo ia i ka hoʻokūkū heʻe nalu ma kahi pae honua, e hāpai ana i ka inoa ʻo Mexico i loko o kona puʻuwai e hāpai i ka piko o ka nalu. Hoʻomau ʻo ia i ka hakakā a ʻike ʻo ia e loaʻa iā ia ka manawa e hoʻolana i kāna leo o ka hanohano.
ʻO ka mea e ʻū a uhaʻi i nā puʻuwai ... ʻO ka mea nani! / ʻO Nicole Muller
E like me nā kāne a me nā wahine haole, ua haʻalele ʻo ia i kona ʻāina a kau i nā aʻa ma aneʻi, i loko o kēia awa nalu nui. Aia kekahi poʻe i hōʻea i kēia awa ʻo Oaxacan me ka manaʻo ʻole e noho, akā me ka mana hoʻokalakupua e hoʻohuli i ke kai i kahi pūnaewele hekili, hopu ʻo Puerto Escondido i ka poʻe i hele mai e ʻaʻa, ma ka papa, ka mana a me ka hanohano o nā nalu .
