ʻO ka serape, kekahi o nā lole o nā lole kāne kāne Mekiko kuʻuna, i loko o kāna wehewehe ʻana, ka hāʻawi ʻana, kūʻai ʻana a me ka hoʻohana ʻana, ʻaʻole wale i nā ʻano pili waiwai a me nā ʻenehana, akā ʻo nā ʻike o ka honua kahi i hoʻokomo ʻia ai ka mea ulana, ʻike ʻia ma o o nā hoʻolālā a me nā kumu o kā lākou lole.
Hiki ke ukali ʻia ka mōʻaukala o ka serape ma o ka hana lole ʻana o ka pulupulu a me ka hulu hipa, nā mea maka me ia e hana ʻia ai, a me ke kū mau o ka trousseau kāne.
Hana ʻia kēia lole i nā wahi like ʻole o ka ʻāina, a no ia kumu i kuhikuhi ʻia ai e nā inoa like ʻole; ʻo ka maʻamau ka tilma, ka palule, ka ʻahuʻula, ka jorongo, ka pulupulu, ka pale a me ka lole pale.
ʻO ka serape kahi lole ʻokoʻa e hoʻohui i nā kuʻuna ulana ʻo Mesoamerican a me ʻEulopa. Mai ka mea mua e hoʻohana i ka pulupulu, nā kala a me nā hoʻolālā; mai ka lua, ke kaʻina o ka hoʻomākaukau ʻana i ka hulu hipa a hiki i ke anaina o ka loom; Ua ulu a ulu pono i loko o nā kenekulia 18 a me 19, i ka wā i hana ʻia ai lākou me ke ʻano kamahaʻo (ma muli o ke ʻano, ke kala a me nā hoʻolālā i hoʻohana ʻia) i nā papa hana he nui i nā mokuʻāina ʻo Zacatecas, Coahuila, Guanajuato, Michoacán, ʻO Querétaro, Puebla a me Tlaxcala.
I ke kenekulia i hala, ʻo ia ka lole hiki ʻole ke kaʻawale o nā peona, nā holo lio, nā charros, nā léperos a me nā kamaʻāina. Hana ʻia kēia mau cottons i ka home, ʻokoʻa me nā sarapes hanohano e kau ʻia e nā mea ʻona a me nā keonimana i nā ʻahaʻaina, ma saraos, ma ka Paseo de la Viga, ma ka Alameda, e like me ka mea i hōʻike ʻia a pena ʻia e nā mea pena, nā huakaʻi. nā lāhui a me nā haole, i hiki ʻole ke pakele i ke kilokilo o kona kala a me kāna hoʻolālā.
Hele pū ka serape me ka poʻe kipi, Chinacos a me Silvers; ua ʻike ʻoe i nā poʻe aloha ʻāina i ke kaua kūʻē i ka mea hoʻouka kaua ʻAmelika a Palani paha; ʻo ia ka hoʻohiki a ka poʻe liberal, nā conservatives a me nā addict i ka ʻemepela.
I ka hakakā o ka poʻe kipi he hae ia, kahi puʻuhonua i kahi hoʻomoana, ka uhi o ka poʻe i hāʻule i ke kahua kaua. Hōʻailona o Mekiko ke pono ka hōʻemi maʻalahi: me ka sombrero a me ka serape wale nō, wehewehe ʻia ka Mekiko, ma loko a ma waho o kā mākou palena.
ʻO ka serape, ke kāne kāne like o ka rebozo i nā wahine, lawelawe ʻia ma ke ʻano he ʻahu, ma ke ʻano he uluna, kapa moe a me kahi moe ma nā pō anuanu ma nā kuahiwi a me nā wao akua. ahuole ahuula i loko o ka jaripeos, pale pale no ka ua.
Ma muli o ka maikaʻi o kāna hana ulana, kona kala a me kāna hoʻolālā, hana maikaʻi ʻia ia ma ka wāwae a ma ka lio. Kulou ma luna o ka poʻohiwi, hoʻonani ia i ka mea e hulahula, hūnā i nā huaʻōlelo aloha a nā ipo, hele pū me lākou i nā serenades; Aia ia no nā wahine wahine a me kahi moe no ke keiki.
I ka lilo ʻana o ka lole i hana ʻia i mea ʻoihana e lilo i mea kaulana, neʻe ka serape mai ke kūlanakauhale a i nā kaiāulu, i nā wahi kahi e komo ai nā charros a me nā hoʻoholo lio a kahi e makemake ai ka poʻe ʻelemakule e haʻalele iā ia. I nā kūlanakauhale hoʻonaninani ʻo ia i nā paia a me nā papahele; Hoʻoluʻolu ia i nā hale kahi i koho ʻia ma ke ʻano he tapestry a i ʻole kapeta, a lawelawe e hāʻawi i ka lewa i nā pāʻina a me "nā pō Mekiko". ʻO ka mea hope loa ia, he ʻāpana o ka lole o ka poʻe hulahula a me mariachis i loko o nā pāʻani e hele pū me ke kakahiaka nui o ka poʻe e hoʻolauleʻa ai i kahi hanana, a i ʻole poina paha i kahi hoka.
I kēia manawa hiki ke hana ʻia me ka mīkini me nā mīkini sophisticated loa, a i ʻole i nā papa hana kahi e hana ai nā mea hana kiʻi ma nā ulana lāʻau, a me ka home, ma nā ʻaoʻao hoʻi i hope. ʻO ia e ʻōlelo, me ka hana ʻana i nā serial a me ka mahele kiʻekiʻe o ka hana, noho pū nā mea hana lima ʻē aʻe a me nā ʻohana e mālama mau i ka hana serape kahiko.
Hoʻomaopopo ʻia nā huahana no kā lākou hana, hoʻolālā a me ka maikaʻi, a ua koho ʻia no kahi mākeke ʻē aʻe, kahi kūloko, āpana a aupuni paha. ʻO kahi laʻana, ʻo ka serape multicolored i hana ʻia ma Chiauhtempan a me Contla, Tlaxcala, kahi ʻāpana maʻamau i nā lole o nā "Parachicos", nā mea hulahula mai Chiapa de Corzo, Chiapas. Kūʻai ʻia nā jorongos i ka poʻe mākaʻikaʻi ma loko a ma waho o ka ʻāina i nā hale kūʻai i loea i nā hana Mekiko. Aia ke kumu kūʻai i nā ʻano o ka hana a me nā mea maka i hoʻohana ʻia i kāna lole.
Ma muli o ke kū ʻana i ka lole kāne, ma o ka mōʻaukala a me nā kālaihonua lole o ko mākou ʻāina, ua hana nā mea noiʻi o ka Ethnography Subdirectorate o ka National Museum of Anthropology i ka hana o ka ʻohiʻohi ʻana i nā jorongos mai nā mokuʻāina like ʻole o ka Lepupalika. i hana ʻia i loko o nā kaiāulu me kahi kuʻuna lole kahiko a i ʻole ma nā wahi a ka poʻe malihini e hoʻohua ai i nā ʻano hana e like me ko lākou mau wahi i hānau ai.
ʻO ka hōʻiliʻili o nā sarapes i ka National Museum of Anthropology me kahi laulā o nā hana hana a me nā kaila; he mau hiʻohiʻona ko kēlā me kēia mea e ʻae ai iā mākou e ʻike i kahi i hele mai ai ia. ʻO kahi laʻana, nā papa inoa multicolored e noʻonoʻo iā mākou i nā lole mai SaltiIlo, Coahuila; Aguascalientes; ʻO Teocaltiche, Jalisco, a me Chiauhtempan, Tlaxcala. ʻO ka hana paʻakikī i ka ulana ʻana e kuhikuhi iā mākou iā San Bernardino Contla, Tlaxcala; San Luis Potosi; Xatiraatlán, San Pedro Temoaya a me Coatepec Harinas, Mokuʻāina ʻo Mekiko; ʻO Jocotepec lāua ʻo Encarnación de Díaz, Jalisco; Los Reyes, Hidalgo; ʻO Coroneo lāua ʻo San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato.
ʻO nā mea ulana e kope i nā kiʻi a me nā kahiki i kā lākou mau lole kapa komo nui ma Guadalupe, Zacatecas; San Bernardino Contla, Tlaxcala; ʻO Tlaxiaco lāua ʻo Teotitlán deI Valle, Oaxaca. Ma nā wahi hope a ma Santa Ana deI Valle, Oaxaca, hoʻohana pū lākou i nā olonā i pena ʻia me nā kala maoli a hoʻopuka hou i nā kiʻi pena na nā mea kākau kaulana.
He mea maʻamau no ka serape i hana ʻia i nā puka ihope i mau ulana ʻelua i ulana ʻia, i hui pū ʻia me ka haku e like me hoʻokahi, ʻoiai nā mea i kau ʻia i nā looms ma kahi ʻāpana. ʻOiai ʻo nā sarapes ʻelua ʻāpana i ulana ʻia ma nā puka hehi wāwae, hana mau ʻia nā lole ʻāpana hoʻokahi ma kēia mīkini. I kēia hihia, hana ʻia ka hunchback i kahi e hele ai ke poʻo a paheʻe ka canvas i nā poʻohiwi. ʻO kēia wahi a me ka ʻaoʻao haʻahaʻa o ka pale ka mea i makemake nui ʻia no ka hana ʻana i nā hoʻolālā elaborate. ʻWili ʻia nā ʻōlelo aʻoaʻo; i kekahi mau wahi ua maʻa lākou iā lākou e nakinaki iā lākou, a i kekahi e hoʻohui i kahi palena i ulana ʻia e ka lou.
I ka hana ʻana i nā sarapes, mālama nā hui lāhui like ʻole o ka ʻāina i nā mea maʻamau i ke kaʻina o ka wili ʻana, ka pena ʻana a me ka ulana ʻana i ka hulu hipa a i ʻole ka pulupulu, i nā hoʻolālā a me nā mea hana. ʻO nā wili maikaʻi i ka hulu hipa nā sarapes o nā Coras a me nā Huichols, a me nā mea i hana ʻia ma Coatepec Harinas a me Donato Guerra, Mokuʻāina ʻo Mexico; Jalacingo, Veracruz; Charapan a me Paracho, Michoacán; ʻO Hueyapan, Morelos, a me Chicahuaxtla, Oaxaca.
ʻO kēlā mau mea mai San Pedro Mixtepec, San Juan Guivine a me Santa Catalina Zhanaguía, Oaxaca, hana ʻia i ka hulu hipa a me ka chichicaztle, nā mea ʻai i hāʻawi ʻia i nā jorongos i ke kala ʻōmaʻomaʻo a me ka mānoanoa a me ke ʻano kaumaha. I Zinacantán, Chiapas, komo nā kāne i kahi pulupulu liʻiliʻi (colera), i ulana ʻia me nā kaula pulupulu keʻokeʻo a me ka ʻulaʻula, i kāhiko ʻia me nā mea humuhumu ʻōniʻoniʻo.
Pili ka loom backstrap i waena o nā mea ulana lole ʻo Tzotzil, Tzeltal, Nahua, Mixes, Huaves, Otomi, Tlapanec, Mixtec a me Zapotec. ʻO nā cotons o Chamula a me Tenejapa, Chiapas, hanohano; Chachahuantla and Naupan, Puebla; Hueyapan, Morelos; Santa María Tlahuitontepec, San Mateo deI Mar, Oaxaca; Santa Ana Hueytlalpan, Hidalgo; Jiquipilco, Mokuʻāina ʻo Mekiko; ʻO Apetzuca, Guerrero, a me Cuquila, ʻo Tlaxiaco lāua ʻo Santa María Quiatoni, ʻo Oaxaca.
ʻO ka loom i hoʻohana ʻia e Yaqui, Mayan a me Rrámuri wahine i ka ʻākau o ka ʻāina, ʻehā mau lāʻau i kanu ʻia; ʻO nā lāʻau e ʻae ai i ke kāʻei o ka lole a me ka hana ʻana o nā sarapes ma Masiaca, Sonora a me Urique, Chihuahua.
ʻO ka loulou hehi wāwae i hana ʻia i ka lāʻau; Hoʻohana ʻia ia e hana i nā ana nunui me ka wikiwiki a e hana hou i nā lauana hoʻonaninani a me nā kumu; Pēlā nō, ʻae ʻia ka hoʻokomo ʻana i nā ʻenehana upholstery. Ma waena o ka hana nui ʻana o ka serape, nā mea mai Malinaltepec, Guerrero; Tlacolula, Oaxaca; Santiago Tianguistenco, Mokuʻāina ʻo Mekiko; ʻO Bernal, Querétaro, a me El Cardonal, Hidalgo.
ʻO ka Serape paʻakai
Manaʻo ʻia ma loko o ke kenekulia 18 a me ka hapa mua o ke kenekulia 19, ua hana ʻia nā jorongos ʻoi loa, i kapa ʻia ʻo "classics" ma muli o ka maikaʻi a me ka ʻenehana i loaʻa i kā lākou hana.
ʻO ka moʻomeheu o ka ulana ma nā pedal loom mai nā Tlaxcalans, nā mea kōkua o ka Paniolo Paniolo i ka noho kolone ʻana o ka ʻākau o ka ʻāina, e noho nei ma kekahi mau kaona o Querétaro, San Luis Potosí, Coahuila, a ma Taos, ke awāwa ʻo Rio Grande. a me San Antonio, no ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa o ʻAmelika ʻĀkau i kēia manawa.
ʻO ke ola ʻana o nā kahu bipi nui ma ia mau ʻāina i hōʻoia i nā mea maka a me ka mākeke no kēia kapa lole, a lilo ia i lole punahele no ka poʻe e hele ana i ka nani i kēlā mau makahiki ma Saltillo. Mai kēia kūlanakauhale i kapa ʻia ʻo "Key to the Inland," lawe nā mea kalepa i nā ʻāpana kūlike ʻole i nā hale kūʻai ʻē aʻe: nā hale kūʻai Apache ma Taos a me nā San Juan de los Lagos, Jalapa a me Acapulco.
I ka wā o ka noho kolone, hoʻokūkū kekahi mau kūlanakauhale me nā sarapes i hana ʻia ma Saltillo a, liʻiliʻi iki, pili ʻia kēia inoa me kekahi kaila i hōʻike ʻia e kāna ʻano hana, kala a me kāna hoʻolālā maikaʻi loa.
Eia nō naʻe, nā hoʻololi politika i hana ma hope o ke kūʻokoʻa ʻana i hoʻohuhū i ka nohona hoʻokele waiwai holoʻokoʻa o ka ʻāina. Hoʻopilikia ka nele o nā mea kanu i nā holoholona, a me ka maluhia ʻole ma nā alanui, ke kumukūʻai o ka hulu hipa a me nā sarapes, kahi e hiki ai i kekahi mau keonimana ke kūʻai aku a hōʻike iā lākou ma ka Paseo de la Villa a me ka Alameda i ke kūlanakauhale. mai Mekiko mai. ʻAe nā puka hāmama o ka lāhui i ka hōʻea ʻana mai o nā poʻe he nui o ka poʻe ʻEulopa i ʻike maka i kā mākou kahakai, nā kahakai, nā kūlanakauhale a me nā wahine o ka terracotta a me nā maka ʻeleʻele. ʻO nā lole kāne kāne, ʻo ka serape polychrome o Saltillo i hoʻolohe i ka maka, a ʻo nā mea pena kiʻi e like me Nebel, Linati, Pingret, Rugendas a me Egerton i hopu iā ia i nā kaha kiʻi like ʻole a me nā kahakaha ʻana. Pēlā nō, nā mea kākau e like me Marquesa Calderón de Ia Barca, Ward, Lyon, a me Mayer e wehewehe nei i nā puke a me nā nūpepa ʻEulopa. ʻAʻole pakele nā mea pena kiʻi aupuni i kā lākou mana: Casimiro Castro lāua ʻo Tomás Arrieta e hoʻolaʻa iā ia i kekahi mau Iitographs a me nā kiʻi pena iā ia; no kā lākou ʻāpana, Payno, García Cubas a me Prieto e hāʻawi i kekahi mau ʻaoʻao.
I ke kaua no ka hoʻokaʻawale ʻana mai Texas (1835), ua kau ka poʻe koa Mekiko i ka sarape ma luna o ko lākou kapa pulu, a ua kūlike ʻole me ko lākou mau alakaʻi, e like me ka mea i ʻaʻahu a nalo ʻia e General Santa Anna. ʻO kēia lā a me ke kaua e kūʻē iā ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa (1848), lawelawe i kahi lā palekana me kekahi mau kaila o ka serape, a ʻo nā mea i loko o ka hoʻolālā e ʻae i kahi laina evolution i loko o nā kenekulia o ke kolone. ʻO ka hoʻokūkū i hōʻike ʻia aʻe nei e like me ka palena o ka hana kiʻekiʻe o nā sarapes i lawe ʻia e nā koa e hoʻonani i ko lākou mau hale, a me nā ipo wahine, nā kaikuahine a me nā makuahine.
ʻO ke kaua, ke kūkulu ʻia ʻana o ke alahao a me ka hoʻomohala ʻana o Monterrey e pili ana i ke kaulike ʻo Saltillo a ke hoʻoholo nei i nā mea no ka emi ʻana o ka hoʻopau ʻana o nā lole i kēlā kūlanakauhale.
ʻO ka serape ʻo Saltillo a laila hāhai i nā ala ʻākau. Ua aʻo nā Navajos i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka huluhulu a me ka ulana ʻana i nā sarapes ma ke awāwa ʻo Rio Grande, ʻAlikona, a ma Valle Redondo, New Mexico, i ke ʻano a me ke ʻano o ka paʻakai. ʻIke ʻia kekahi mana ʻē aʻe i kekahi mau lole i ka ʻāina, e laʻa me Aguascalientes a me San Miguel de Allende; akā, ʻokoʻa nā mea i hana ʻia i nā kenekulia i ʻōlelo ʻia. ʻO nā sarapes Saltillo i kapa ʻia i hana ʻia i nā kaiāulu he nui ma ka mokuʻāina ʻo Tlaxcala, a ma San Bernardino Contla, San Miguel Xaltipan, Guadalupe Ixcotla, Santa Ana Chiautempan a me San Rafael Tepatlaxco, mai nā kaona ʻo Juan Cuamatzi a me Chiautempan, nā mea nui. waiwai artisan.
ʻO ka nani o ka lole i hele i luna o kā mākou palena, a me ka mahalo o ka poʻe Mekiko i kā lākou hana, mālama i ka serape ola: ma ke ʻano he lole pono a he hōʻailona o ka kuʻuna.
Puna: Mekiko i ka Manawa Helu 8 ʻAukake-Kepakemapa 1995
