Ke kono aku nei au iā ʻoe e hana i kahi huakaʻi helehelena i loko o ke kūlanakauhale hanohano a kūpaʻa ʻo Mexico City e like me ia i nā kenekulia 18 a me 19. Ke hele nei mākou e ʻike mākou i nā wahi āpau i kahi waihoʻoluʻu a me nā ʻōniʻoniʻo i ka lole o nā kamaʻāina o ke kapitala.
Hele koke mākou i ke kahua, nā ala maoli a me nā ala e lawe iā mākou e noʻonoʻo i nā hiʻohiʻona o nā wahi like ʻole, e komo mākou i nā kaona, nā mahiʻai a me nā mahiʻai. ʻO nā kāne a me nā wahine, nā limahana, nā muleteers, nā mahiʻai, nā kahu hipa a i ʻole nā mea kuleana ʻāina i ka lole Creole, ʻoiai e like me ko lākou lāhui, ka moekolohe a me ke ʻano nohona.
Hiki i kēia huakaʻi noʻonoʻo ke mahalo i nā mea kākau, nā mea pena a me nā mea pena kiʻi i ʻike pehea e hopu ai i ka mea a lākou i ʻike ai no Mekiko i kēlā manawa. ʻO Baltasar de Echave, Ignacio Barreda, Villaseñor, ʻo Luis Juárez, ʻo ka Rodríguez Juárez, ʻo José Páez a me Miguel Cabrera kekahi o nā plethora o nā mea pena kiʻi, nā Mekiko a me nā haole, i hōʻike i ka Mekiko, kona ʻano o ka noho ʻana a me ka ʻaʻahu ʻana. Akā e hoʻomanaʻo kākou i kahi ʻano kupaianaha o ka hana kuʻuna, nā kiʻi caste, i hōʻike ʻia, ʻaʻole wale ka poʻe i hopena mai nā hui like ʻana o nā lāhui, akā ke kaiapuni, ka lole a me nā mea nani a lākou e komo ai.
I ke kenekulia 19, ua pīhoihoi ka honua "exotic" i hōʻike ʻia e Baron Humboldt, William Bullock lāua ʻo Joel. ʻO R. Poinsett, nā huakaʻi helehelena nui i hiki aku i Mekiko, i waena o lākou ka Marchioness Calderón de la Barca a me nā mea ʻē aʻe, e like me Linati, Egerton, Nevel, Pingret a me Rugendas i hui pū me nā Mexico Arrieta, Serrano, Castro, Cordero, Icaza a me Alfaro i kā lākou makemake e hōʻike i nā poʻe Mekiko. ʻO nā mea kākau e like me Manuel Payno, Guillermo Prieto, Ignacio Ramírez –el Nigromante–, ʻo José Joaquín Fernandez de Lizardi a ma hope ʻo Artemio de Valle Arizpe i waiho mai iā mākou i nā ʻaoʻao waiwai nui o nā hanana o kēlā me kēia lā o kēlā mau manawa.
Hoʻohanohano Viceregal
E hele mākou i ka Meia Plaza ma ke kakahiaka Sābati. Aia ma kekahi ʻaoʻao kahi e hele pū ana me kona ʻohana a me kāna ukali, ʻo Viceroy Francisco Fernández de la Cueva, Duke o Albuquerque. I loko o kahi kaʻa nani i lawe ʻia mai mai ʻEulopa hele mai ʻo ia e hoʻolohe i ka lehulehu ma ka hale pule nui.
Ua hala nā lole ʻeleʻele sober o ka hopena o ke kenekulia ʻumikūmāono i loaʻa i nā lole keʻokeʻo keʻokeʻo wale nō. I kēia lā ua lanakila ke ʻano Palani o nā Bourbons. Lawe nā kāne i nā wigs lōʻihi, wili a me ka pauda, wili a i ʻole nā palekoki, nā pūliki koa Belgian a i ʻole Palani, nā pālule silika, nā stocking keʻokeʻo, a me nā kāmaʻa ʻili a lole paha me nā kīʻaha hoʻonaninani.
ʻO nā wahine o ke kenekulia ʻumikūmāwalu mau makahiki i kāhiko ʻia i nā lole komo silika a i ʻole nā brocade i haʻi ʻia me nā ʻāʻī a me nā pale ākea, kahi e kau ai ke kino o nā hoops i kapa ʻia e lākou ʻo "guardainfante". ʻO kēia mau lole hoʻonaninani e hōʻike i nā pleats, embroidery, gula a me nā kaula komo kālā, nā lāʻau strawberry, nā rhinestones, nā lei, nā sequins, a me nā lipine silika. Hōʻaʻahu nā keiki i nā kope o ka lole a me nā kāhiko o ko lākou mau mākua. ʻO nā kāhiko o nā kauā, nā ʻaoʻao a me nā kaʻi kaʻa he mea hauʻoli loa a hoʻonāukiuki lākou i ka ʻakaʻaka mai ka poʻe hele.
Ua kope ʻo Rich Creole a me nā ʻohana mestizo i nā lole o ka ʻaha viceregal e hoʻokomo iā lākou ma nā ʻahaʻaina. Ikaika loa ke ola kaiaulu: nā meaʻai, nā meaʻai māmā, nā ahiahi mele a mele paha, nā saraos gala a me nā hana haipule e hoʻopiha i ka manawa o nā kāne a me nā wahine. Aia ka aristocracy Creole, ʻaʻole wale i ka lole a me nā mea hoʻonaninani, akā i ka hoʻolālā, ka halihali, nā kiʻi ma kāna mau ʻano like ʻole a me nā mea āpau o kēlā me kēia lā. ʻO ke kahunapule kiʻekiʻe, ka pūʻali koa, ka poʻe akeakamai a me kekahi mau mea pena kiʻi i kūlike me "nā aliʻi" i loaʻa nā kauā, kauā a wahine hoʻi i ke kali ʻana.
I nā papa kiʻekiʻe e loli nā lole me nā hanana. Kuhi ka poʻe ʻEulopa i ke ʻano, akā ʻo nā ʻĀkia a me nā ʻōiwi maoli ka hopena a hopena i nā lole ʻokoʻa e like me ka shawl, i ʻōlelo ʻia e nā mea noiʻi he mea hōʻeuʻeu e ka saree India.
Kūpono kahi mokuna ʻokoʻa i nā huahana o ka Hikina e hiki mai ana i nā moku. ʻO nā silika, nā brocade, nā mea hoʻonaninani, nā mea pā mai Kina, Iapana a me nā Pilipino i ʻae ʻia ākea. ʻO nā shawl Manila, i ulana ʻia i ke silika a me nā ʻūlū lōʻihi, e like me ka hopu ʻana i ka poʻe noho o Nū Pepania. Pēlā mākou e ʻike ai i nā wahine Zapotec o ka Isthmus a me nā Chiapas e hana hou i nā hoʻolālā o nā pale i ko lākou pale, nā pālule a me nā huipiles.
Hōʻaʻahu ka papa waena i nā lole maʻalahi. Hoʻokomo nā wahine ʻōpio i nā lole māmā i nā waihoʻoluʻu ikaika, ʻoiai nā wahine makua a me nā wahine kāne make e kau i nā kala ʻeleʻele me nā ʻāʻī kiʻekiʻe, nā pūlima lōʻihi a me kahi mantilla e paʻa ʻia e kahi waihona tortoiseshell.
Mai ka waenakonu o ke kenekulia 18, ua hoʻemi iki ʻia ke ʻano i nā kāne, pōkole nā wigs a ʻoi aku ka mālie a me ka liʻiliʻi o nā pālule a i ʻole nā pale. ʻOi aku ka makemake o nā wahine i nā lole hoʻonaninani, akā i kēia manawa ua liʻiliʻi ka laulā o nā pālule; Ke kau nei nā wati ʻelua mai kā lākou pūhaka, kahi e hōʻailona ai i ka manawa o Sepania a ʻo kekahi me Mexico. Hoʻokomo pinepine lākou i nā tortoiseshell a i ʻole velevet "chiqueadores", hoʻopili pinepine ʻia me nā momi a i nā pōhaku makamae.
I kēia manawa, ma lalo o ke kauoha a Viceroy Conde de Revillagigedo, ua hoʻonohonoho mua nā mea hoʻopaʻa lole, nā mea humuhumu, nā lole wāwae, nā kāmaʻa kāmaʻa, nā pāpale, a me nā mea ʻē aʻe i nā guilds e hoʻoponopono a pale aku i kā lākou hana, ʻoiai ua hana ʻia kahi ʻāpana nui o nā lole i ka New. Kepania. I loko o nā ʻaha kūkā, hana nā nun i ka lace, embroider, holoi, starch, pū, a me ka hao, i mea hoʻohui i nā kāhiko haipule, nā lole, nā lole home a me nā kapa.
Hoʻomaopopo ka hoʻopiʻi i ka mea nāna ia e ʻaʻa, no ia kumu i hoʻopuka ʻia ai kahi kauoha aliʻi e pāpā ana i ka pāpale a me ka ʻahuʻula, ʻoiai he kāne maʻamau nā kāne muffled. Hōʻaʻahu nā ʻeleʻele i ka lole silika keu a i ʻole ka pulupulu, nā pūlima lōʻihi a me nā paʻa ma ka pūhaka i maa mau. Hoʻokomo pū nā wahine i nā pāpale turbans i hoʻonui ʻia a loaʻa iā lākou ka inoa inoa "harlequins". ʻO nā lole a pau i nā waihoʻoluʻu ʻōniʻoniʻo, keu hoʻi i kaʻulaʻula.
Makani o ka hoʻohou
I ka manawa o ka Enlightenment, i ka hopena o ke kenekulia 17, me ka nui o ka hoʻololi kaiāulu, politika a me ka hoʻokele waiwai i hoʻomaka ʻo ʻEulopa e ʻike, hoʻomau nā alakaʻi i ke ola o nā ʻōpala nui e hoʻohuli i ke ʻano kaulana i ke kūʻokoʻa. ʻO ka mea kālai ʻo Manu Tolsá, ka mea, a ʻo nā mea ʻē aʻe, i hoʻopau i ke kūkulu ʻana o ka hale pule nui o Mekiko, hele mai me ka lole hou loa: he pūliki keʻokeʻo keʻokeʻo keʻokeʻo, kahi ʻahuʻula huluhulu ʻulaʻula a me kahi ʻokiʻoki kuahiwi. He mana ko Goya no nā wahine, nani lākou, akāʻeleʻele i nā kala me ka nui o ka lace a me nā lāʻau strawberry. Uhi lākou i ko lākou poʻohiwi a i ʻole ko lākou poʻo me ka mantilla maʻamau. I kēia manawa, ʻoi aku ka "frivolous" o nā wahine, puhi mau lākou i ka uahi a heluhelu a kamaʻilio hoʻi e pili ana i ka politika.
I hoʻokahi kenekulia ma hope mai, ʻo nā kiʻi o nā wahine ʻōpio e komo ana i ka hale konikona, i ʻike nani ʻia me nā lole a me nā mea nani he nui, a me nā hoʻoilina o nā aliʻi ʻōiwi, nā mea i hōʻike ʻia me nā hipile i hoʻonani nani ʻia, e waiho mau ana ma ke ʻano he hōʻike no nā lole wahine. ma ke ʻano Sepania.
ʻO nā alanui ʻoi loa ma ke kūlanakauhale ʻo Mekiko ʻo Plateros lāua ʻo Tacuba. Ma laila e hōʻike ai nā hale kūʻai kū hoʻokahi i nā hoʻopiʻi, nā pāpale, nā scarves a me nā mea nani mai ʻEulopa ma nā ʻaoʻao, ʻoiai ma nā "drawers" a i ʻole "mau papaʻaina" e waiho ana ma kekahi ʻaoʻao o ka Hale Aliʻi, e kūʻai ʻia aku ana nā lole o nā ʻano like ʻole a me nā lace. Ma El Baratillo hiki ke loaʻa nā lole ʻelua ma nā kumukūʻai haʻahaʻa no ka papa waena ilihune.
Makahiki o austerity
I ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ke kenekulia 19, ua hoʻololi maoli ka lole o nā wahine. Ma lalo o ka mana o ke au Napoleonic, aneane pololei nā lole, me nā lole palupalu, nā pūhaka kiʻekiʻe a me nā pūlima "balloon"; nakinaki ʻia nā lauoho pokole a hoʻopaʻa nā wili liʻiliʻi i ka maka. E uhi i ka neckline ākea i nā wahine i nā scarves lace a me nā pale, a lākou i kapa ai "modestín". I ka makahiki 1803, ua komo ka Baron de Humboldt i nā ʻano mea hou loa: nā pālule lōʻihi, ka ʻaʻaahu koa koa a me ka pāpale bowler ākea ākea. I kēia manawa ua maʻalea hou nā kaula o ka lole kāne.
Me ke kaua o ke kūʻokoʻa o 1810 i hiki mai ai nā manawa paʻakikī kahi o ka ʻuhane makehewa o nā makahiki i hala. ʻO ka ʻokoʻa wale nō paha ke aupuni ephemeral o Agustín de Iturbide, ka mea i hele i kāna kalaunu me kahi kapa ʻelima a me kahi lei aliʻi hoʻomākeʻaka.
He lauoho pōkole ko nā kāne a komo i nā austere suit, tailcoats a i ʻole nā kapa frock me nā pālule huluhulu ʻeleʻele. Keʻokeʻo nā pālule, he ʻāʻī kiʻekiʻe ko lākou i uhi ʻia i nā kakaka a i ʻole nā plastrones (nā nakinaki ākea). Haʻaheo nā keonimana haʻaheo me nā ʻumiʻumi a me nā ʻumiʻumi i ka pāpale mauʻu a me nā kō. ʻO kēia ke ʻano o nā hiʻohiʻona o ka lole Reformation, ʻo kēia ke ʻano o Benito Juárez a me ka Lerdos de Tejada i hōʻike iā lākou iho.
No nā wahine, hoʻomaka ka wā aloha: ua huluhulu ʻia nā lole me ke silika ākea, taffeta a i ʻole nā pulupulu. ʻO ka lauoho i hōʻiliʻili ʻia i kahi popo, he mea kaulana ia e like me nā shawl, shawls, shawls a me nā scarf. Makemake nā wahine āpau i kahi peʻahi a me kahi umbrella. He ʻano wahine maikaʻi loa kēia, nani, akā naʻe me ka ʻole o nā mea keu. Akā ʻaʻole lōʻihi ka haʻahaʻa. Me ka hōʻea ʻana o Maximiliano lāua ʻo Carlota, hoʻi ka saraos a me ka ostentation.
ʻO ka "poʻe" a me kona ʻano manawa ʻole
Hele mākou i kēia manawa i nā alanui a me nā mākeke e hoʻokokoke aku ai i ka "poʻe o ke kaona". Pākuʻi nā kāne i nā pālule pōkole a lōʻihi paha, akā ʻaʻohe hemahema o ka poʻe e uhi wale iā lākou iho me ka malo, a me nā pālule maʻalahi a me nā huipile keʻokeʻo keʻokeʻo, a ʻo ka poʻe e hele wāwae ʻole i ka wāwae wāwae e komo i nā huarach a i nā kāmaʻa paha. Inā ʻae kā lākou hoʻokele waiwai, komo lākou i nā lele wahine a i ʻole nā sarapes me nā hoʻolālā ʻokoʻa e pili ana i ka ʻāina o ko lākou kumu. Ua nui nā pāpale Petate, manaʻo a "puʻupuʻu hoki".
Hoʻokomo kekahi mau wahine i ka entanglement –ʻāpana ʻāpana huinahā i ulana ʻia ma ka malo e hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka pūhaka me kahi kāʻei a kāʻei–, makemake kekahi i ke kapa pololei i hana ʻia i ka lole humuhumu a i ʻole nā twill, i hoʻopaʻa pū ʻia me ke kāʻei, ka blouse neckline a me ka pūlima "balloon". ʻAneʻane e komo nā pale umauma i ke poʻo, ma nā poʻohiwi, keʻa i ka umauma a i ke kua paha, e hāpai i ka pēpē.
Ma lalo o ka pālule lole lākou i ka lole pulupulu a i lalo paha i ʻokiʻoki ʻia me ka hana lou a i ka lace bobbin. Hoʻolālā ʻia lākou me ka hoʻokaʻawale i ka waena a me nā pae (ma nā ʻaoʻao a puni ke poʻo) e hoʻopau i nā lipine kala e hōʻike ʻia. ʻO ka hoʻohana ʻana o nā huipile i humuhumu ʻia a i humuhumu ʻia a lākou e ʻaʻohe ai, i ke ala ma mua o ka Hispanic, he mea mau loa ia. ʻO nā wahine he brunette me ka lauoho ʻeleʻele a me nā maka, ʻike ʻia lākou e ko lākou hoʻomaʻemaʻe pilikino a me kā lākou mau pepeiao pepeiao nui a me nā lei i hana ʻia i nā koʻa, ke kālā, nā lei, nā pōhaku a me nā ʻanoʻano. Hana lākou i nā lole iā lākou iho.
Ma nā kuaʻāina, ua hoʻololi ʻia ka lole kāne o ka kāne i ka manawa: ua hoʻololi ʻia ke kapa ʻōiwi maʻalahi i lole komo rancher o nā pālule lōʻihi me nā chaps a i ʻole nā suede breech, kahi pālule a me nā pūlima ākea a me kahi lole pōkole a i ʻole ka ʻeke suede. Ma waena o nā mea kaulana loa kekahi mau pihi kālā a me nā lipine e hoʻonani i ke kapa, i hana pū ʻia me ka ʻili a me ke kālā.
Hoʻokomo nā caporales i nā chaparera a me nā cotonas suede, kūpono e kū i nā hana ʻoʻoleʻa o ke kuaʻāina. ʻO nā kāmaʻa ʻili me nā lace a me ka pāpale petya, ka soy a i ʻole ka pāpale ʻili - ʻokoʻa i kēlā me kēia wahi - e hoʻopiha i ka lole o ke kāne ʻāina hana. ʻO nā Chinacos, nā kiaʻi kaiāulu kaulana o ke kenekulia ʻumikūmāiwa, komo i kēia kapa, kahi mea hoʻomaka o ka lole charro, kaulana a puni ka honua a me ka hiʻona o ke kāne "ʻoiaʻiʻo ʻo Mekiko".
Ma ka laulā, ua hoʻololi iki nā lole o ka "poʻe", nā papa pono liʻiliʻi, i nā kenekulia he nui a me nā lole i nalowale ke kumu i ka wā i ola. I kekahi mau wahi o Mekiko, hoʻohana mau ʻia nā lole ma mua o ka Hispanic a i ʻole me kekahi modality i hoʻokau ʻia e ka Colony. I nā wahi ʻē aʻe, inā ʻaʻole i kēlā me kēia lā, ʻaʻahu ʻia lākou i nā hoʻolauleʻa haipule, ʻaha kanaka a me ka nohona kaiāulu. ʻO lākou nā lole hana lima, o ka elaboration paʻakikī a me ka nani nui i ʻāpana o nā kiʻi kaulana a lilo i kumu o ka haʻaheo, ʻaʻole wale no ka poʻe e kau ana iā lākou, akā no nā Mekiko a pau.
Puna: Mekiko i ka Manawa Helu 35 Malaki / ʻApelila 2000
