ʻO ka ikaika o ka honua, ke ahi, a me ka wai e wehewehe i nā mauna, nā kula, a me ka ʻaʻā, akā ʻaʻole lākou i haʻi nui mai e pili ana i ke one ponoʻī. Pehea ka nui o ke one i hiki aku i Samalayuca?
ʻO ka ikaika o ka honua, ke ahi, a me ka wai e wehewehe i nā mauna, nā kula, a me ka ʻaʻā, akā ʻaʻole lākou i haʻi nui mai e pili ana i ke one ponoʻī. Pehea ka nui o ke one i hiki aku i Samalayuca?
Ma kahi he kanalima mau mile ma ka hema o Ciudad Juárez kahi wahi ʻoluʻolu ʻole a hoihoi pū kekahi. Hele aku kekahi iā ia ma ke Alanui Pan-ʻAmelika ma waena o ka pā ʻo Chihuahuan. Inā hoʻomaka ka huakaʻi i ka huakaʻi mai ke kūkulu ʻākau a mai ka hema paha, ʻo ka pāpū i uhi ʻia me nā laʻalāʻau squat a i ʻole nā wahi melemele melemele ʻia me Hereford "keʻokeʻo" nā pipi i loli a lilo i mau kolone o ka hue beige homogeneous. Hāʻawi nā laina ākea o ka ʻāina pālahalaha i nā pulu mālie, ʻoiai e pau ana ka lau nahele liʻiliʻi i ka nalowale. ʻO nā hōʻailona maʻamau o ka ʻāina ʻākau o Mekiko, ʻilihune akā ola, hoʻoheheʻe i kahi panorama i neoneo loa a me he mea lā ʻo Martian. A laila kū mai ke kiʻi kūlohelohe o ka wao akua, ka mea hanohano a nunui loa e like me ke kai i lule i nā nalu o ke one: ke kuahiwi o Samalayuca.
E like me ke kuahiwi o ke kahakai, he mau puʻu one kēia mau puʻupuʻu o nā nui āpau, i hōʻiliʻili ʻia e nā kaʻina ʻaʻai kahiko. ʻOiai ʻo ka hapa nui o ka panalāʻau ʻo Mekiko he wao akua, ma nā wahi kakaʻikahi wale nō e ʻae nei i ka noho ʻana o nā kuahiwi o nā one maikaʻi e like me kēlā. Maliʻa paha ʻo ka wao akua ʻo Altar, ma Sonora, a me ka wao nahele ʻo Vizcaíno, ma Baja California Sur, a i ʻole ka moku ʻo Viesca, ma Coahuila, i like me kēia wahi.
Me nā mea āpau āpau, ʻaʻohe mea ʻē ka puʻu dālā Samalayuca no ka mea hele ma ke ala e hoʻopili iā Ciudad Juárez me ke kapikala mokuʻāina, ʻoiai ke ala ʻo Pan-American Highway a me ke alaloa Central Railroad e hele i waena o kāna wahi ʻololī loa. Eia nō naʻe, e like me nā mea kupaianaha ʻē aʻe ʻē aʻe, ʻaʻole hāʻawi pinepine kekahi iā ia iho i ka manawa kūpono e kū a mākaʻikaʻi iā lākou, i kahi ala e mālama ai lākou i kā lākou mea huna iā lākou iho.
Hoʻoholo ʻia e haʻalele i kēlā kūlana o nā mea nānā panorama wale nō, ua hālāwai mākou me nā mana mua loa o ka natura.
KE AHI
Hoʻokipa mākou i nā puʻu me kahi hanu o ka mālamalama a mehana. Ke haʻalele nei i ke kumu i ke awakea, ʻaʻole wale mākou i hōʻoluʻolu i ka leʻaleʻa ea, akā ua komo mākou i kahi wahi ʻōlinolino makapō. ʻO ka hele wāwae ʻana ma waena o nā nīnū o ke one māmā maʻemaʻe ua koi iā mākou e kuhikuhi i ka maka i ka lani, no ka mea ʻaʻohe ala e hoʻomaha ai ia i ka honua ʻālohilohi. I kēlā manawa ua ʻike mākou i ka hiʻohiʻona mua o kēlā aupuni: ka dictatorhip o ke ahi lā.
Hāʻawi like kēlā mehameha haʻalulu i ka ʻino o ka wao akua Chihuahuan, akā hoʻonui ʻia ia mau mea. Loaʻa i ka wai a me kahi papa mea kanu nui, pili ka wela i ka lā. A ʻoiai hōʻike nā puke kālaihonua i kahi mahana ʻoluʻolu o ka mahana ma kahi o 15 ° C, ʻaʻohe paha ʻāpana ʻē aʻe o ka ʻāina kahi e hoʻololi ai ka mahana i kēlā me kēia lā. a me ka makahiki - he keu loa.
KA HONUA
Ma hope o kēlā manaʻo mua, pono pono ke alo i nā thermos kaʻao o ke kanaka i ka wao akua: nalowale i kahi labyrinth me ka ʻole o nā paia. ʻO nā kuahiwi ʻo Samalayuca, e like me ka ʻākau o Chihuahua a me Sonora, i kahi ʻāina a puni nā ʻāina komohana o ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa (ʻo Nevada, Utah, Arizona a me New Mexico) i ʻike ʻia ʻo "Cuenca a me Sierra" a i ʻole. i ka ʻōlelo Pelekania, ke kīʻaha a me ka pae, i hoʻokumu ʻia e nā ʻauʻau he nui i hoʻokaʻawale ʻia e nā pae mauna liʻiliʻi, kahi e pili ai i ka ʻaoʻao hema-ʻākau. ʻO ia kikoʻī kahi mea hōʻoluʻolu i ka poʻe hele wāwae o ke one: no ka nui o ka mea e komo ai i loko o kāna mau pahu, i kēlā me kēia manawa hiki i kekahi ke hoʻonohonoho iā ia iho ma o kēia mau pae mauna pōkole, akā he hapalua kilomika ke kiʻekiʻe ma luna o ka pae o ka pāpū. Ma ka ʻākau e piʻi aʻe ka mauna ʻo Samalayuca, a ma hope o ia ke kūlanakauhale homonymous popopo. Aia ma ka ʻākau hikina ka Sierra El Presidio; a ma ka hema, nā kuahiwi ʻo La Candelaria a me La Ranchería. No laila, loaʻa mau iā mākou ke kōkua o kēlā mau piko kiʻekiʻe i alakaʻi iā mākou e like me nā beacon i nā moku.
WAI
Inā he mau makahiki miliona ko ka mauna, ʻo ka pāpū, ma ka ʻaoʻao ʻē aʻe, ʻoi loa aku. ʻO ka paradox ka mea i hana ʻia e kēlā wai a mākou i ʻike ʻole ai ma hea. He mau kaukani mau makahiki i hala aku nei, i ka wā o Pleistocene glaciations, ua hana nā loko i kahi ʻāpana nui o ka "basin a me nā kuahiwi" ma ka waiho ʻana i nā sediment i nā ākea ma waena o nā pae mauna. I ka pau ʻana o ka heʻe mau o nā glacier o ka honua a i ʻole he ʻumikūmālua kaukani mau makahiki aku nei (i ka hopena o ka Pleistocene) a ua hele a mānoanoa ke aniau, ua nalowale ka hapa nui o kēlā mau loko ʻoiai ua waiho lākou ma hope o hoʻokahi haneli mau kaumaha a i ʻole nā kīʻaha pani kahi kahi wai liʻiliʻi ʻaʻole holo ka wai i loko o ke kai. Ma Samalayuca nalowale nā kahawai i ka wao akua ma kahi o ka ninini ʻana i ka Rio Grande, 40 mau mile wale nō i ka hikina. Kū like ka mea me nā kahawai ʻo Casas Grandes a me Carmen ʻaʻole mamao loa, kahi e hoʻopau ai i kā lākou huakaʻi ma nā kahawai ʻo Guzmán a me Patos, ʻo ia hoʻi ma Chihuahua. Ua hōʻike ʻia kahi kino nui o ka wai i kau ma luna o nā puʻu e kekahi mau mōʻī kai i loaʻa ma lalo o ke one.
Ua hōʻike nui ʻia i kahi mokulele Cessna o ke kāpena ʻo Matilde Duarte i hōʻike mai iā mākou i ka mea kupaianaha o El Barreal, kahi loko i like ka nui me Cuitzeo, ma Michoacán, ʻoiai ua hōʻike wale ʻia i kahi ākea ʻeleʻele, pālahalaha a maloʻo hoʻi. o ka ua.
E noʻonoʻo paha ʻoe i ka ua liʻiliʻi e heleleʻi i ka puʻu e holo i El Barreal; eia naʻe, ʻaʻole kēia ka hihia. ʻAʻole hōʻailona nā palapala ʻāina i kekahi kahawai e alakaʻi i kēlā ala, ʻoiai ʻo ka ʻaoʻao "virtual" ka wahi haʻahaʻa i loko o ke kīʻaha; ʻaʻohe hōʻailona o kekahi kahawai i ke one Samalayuca. Me ka ua, pono ke omo ke one i ka wai me ka wikiwiki, ʻoiai me ka ʻole o ka hohonu. ʻO kahi mea kupaianaha ka mea i ʻike ʻia o kahi pūnāwai kokoke i ke kuʻina o ke kuahiwi ʻo Samalayuca me ke ala, he mau mika mai kahi o nā wahi wao nahele maʻamau o ʻAmelika Hema ...
MAKANI
ʻO ka ikaika o ka honua, ke ahi, a me ka wai e wehewehe i nā mauna, nā kula, a me ka ʻaʻā, akā ʻaʻole lākou i haʻi nui mai e pili ana i ke one ponoʻī. Pehea ka nui o ke one i hiki aku i Samalayuca?
ʻO ka ʻoiaʻiʻo nā kuahiwi ma laila a ma kahi ʻē aʻe o ka mauna kiʻekiʻe ʻākau ka mea nui, ʻoiai pohihihi. ʻO nā kinona a mākou i hele mai ai mai ka mokulele he kūpilikiʻi ia, akā ʻaʻole maʻamau. Ma ke komohana o ka laina hoʻokaʻawale i huki ʻia e ke ala he mau puʻu one nui ʻelua a ʻekolu paha. Ma kēlā ʻaoʻao, ʻaneʻane ma ka palena hikina o ka wahi, aia kahi lōʻihi lōʻihi o nā kuahiwi kiʻekiʻe (ʻo ka mea i ʻike nui ʻia mai ke ala) e like me nā mea i kapa ʻia e nā kālaihonua "kaulahao barjánica". He ʻano mauna ia i ʻoi aku ke kiʻekiʻe ma mua o ke koena. Ehia? ʻO Kāpena Duarte, he aviatex-mex akamai, i pane i ka ʻōnaehana English: aia paha i 50 kapuaʻi (i ka Christian, 15 mika). ʻOiai he mea ia e like me kahi kuhi conservative iā mākou, he hōʻike paha ia: ua like ia me kahi hale ʻeono papa. E hōʻike paha ka ʻili i nā kiʻekiʻena i ʻoi aku ma mua o kēia; ʻO ka mea kupaianaha ka mea e lawe iā ia me kahi mea pelimā e like me nā one o ka liʻiliʻi ma mua o ka millimeter i ke anawaena: ʻo ia ka hana a ka makani, i hōʻiliʻili i kēlā nui o ke one ma ka ʻākau o Chihuahua. Akā no hea ia i loaʻa ai?
ʻO Mr. Gerardo Gómez, ka mea i hoʻomaʻamaʻa mua i ka hele wāwae ʻana i nā puʻu - kahi hana paʻakikī e noʻonoʻo - haʻi iā mākou e pili ana i nā sandstorm o Pepeluali. Ua lilo ke ea i ke ao i kahi kekelē e pono ai e hoʻoliʻiliʻi loa i ka wikiwiki o nā kaʻa a nānā pono i ka nānā ʻole e nalo i ke kaʻe o ka aspalta o ke Alanui Pan-American.
Ua ulu nui paha ke kuahiwi i ka hikina i kā mākou huakaʻi huakaʻi, akā ʻo ia ka waenakonu o Iune a i ka puna i poha nā kahe nui mai ke komohana a me ke komohana hema. He hiki nō paha i kēlā mau makani ke "hoʻokipa" wale i nā ʻano one o ke ʻano kū hoʻokahi. Malia paha ua waiho ʻia ke one ma laila no mau makahiki e nā "ʻākau" ʻino e ʻohiʻohi ana i nā hua palaoa i kēia manawa ʻo ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa. ʻO kēlā mau "ʻākau" ka mea e pono ai nā ʻino i haʻi ʻia e Mr. Gómez. Eia nō naʻe, he kuhiakau wale nō lākou: ʻaʻohe ʻike pili kaiapili kikoʻī no ka ʻāina e pane ana i ka nīnau e pili ana i ke kumu o kēia one.
ʻO kahi mea kikoʻī, a ʻike maopopo loa ʻia, ʻo ia ka neʻe ʻana o nā dune a hana wikiwiki lākou. Ke Central Railroad, kūkulu ʻia i ka makahiki 1882, hiki ke hōʻike i kona neʻe. I mea e pale aku ai i ke one mai ka "ale" ʻana i nā ala, pono pono ke kui i ʻelua laina pale o nā lāʻau kūnoanoa e kāpae aku iā ia. ʻO ia ka mea i alakaʻi iā mākou i kahi noonoo hope loa i ko mākou piʻi ʻana i ka mauna ʻo Samalayuca e kiʻi ai i kahi kuana mai luna mai: ke ulu nei anei kahi o nā puʻu?
ʻO ka ʻāpana o ke one maʻemaʻe pono ma kahi o 40 km mai ka hikina a ke komohana a me ka 25 latitude i kāna mau ʻāpana ākea, no ka nui o kahi ma kahi o hoʻokahi tausani mau kilomika kilomika (hoʻokahi haneli tausani maueka). ʻO ka puke wehewehe ʻōlelo a Chihuahuan History, Geography and Biography Eia naʻe, hāʻawi i nā kiʻi i ʻelua mau manawa i ka nui. Pono e wehewehe ʻia ʻaʻole pau ke one me nā puʻu: aia ka palena o kēia mau mea kahi e hoʻomaka ai nā mea kanu, kahi e hoʻoponopono ai a pālahalaha ai ka honua, a me kahi e pale ai i nā hare, nā mea kolo a me nā mea kolo. Akā ʻo ka ʻāina one e moe ana i ke komohana, komohana ʻākau, a me ka ʻākau a hiki i El Barreal a me ka palena ʻo New Mexico. Wahi a ka puke wehewehe ʻōlelo i ʻōlelo ʻia aʻe nei, ʻo ke kīʻaha holoʻokoʻa e kapili ana i nā puʻu o ke kaona o ʻekolu mau kulanakauhale (Juárez, Ascención a me Ahumada) a ʻoi aku ma mua o 30 tausani kilomika kilomika, kahi mea e like me 1.5% o ka ʻili o ka ʻāina a me ka ono o ka o ka mokuʻāina.
Ma laila mākou i ʻike ai i ka mea i ʻike ʻia he petroglyphs ma kekahi o nā pōhaku o kahi amphitheater kūlohelohe: nā kiko, nā laina, nā kaha kiʻi o nā kino kanaka i kahi ʻia i ka paia he ʻeono kapuaʻi ke kiʻekiʻe, e like me nā ʻano pōhaku ʻē aʻe i koe ma Chihuahua a me New Mexico. ʻO nā kuahiwi ka nui no nā mea kākau o kēlā mau petroglyphs?
ʻOiai ʻo nā paionia noho ʻAmelika, i ko lākou neʻe neʻe ʻana i ka hema, ʻaʻole lākou i ʻike iā lākou. Aia nō he mau loko nui a puni i ka hōʻea ʻana mai o ka poʻe ʻimi holoholona mua. ʻOi aku ka hou o ke aniau a ʻaʻole nā pilikia o ke kaiapuni a mākou e ʻeha ai i kēia lā.
Ke ulu nei paha nā dunes Samalayuca no nā makahiki he ʻumi kaukani, e hōʻike nei ua hauʻoli nā hanauna i hala i kahi ʻoluʻolu a hoʻokipa hoʻi. Eia nō naʻe, ʻo ia hoʻi, ʻaʻole lākou i leʻaleʻa i ka napoʻo ʻana o ka lā e like me kā mākou i ʻike ai i kēlā hanana: ʻo ka Lā gula e waiho ana ma hope o kahi kūlana kiʻekiʻe o nā kuahiwi, kahi hulahula mālie o ka wao nahele i honi ʻia e nā lima o ka makani.
Inā ʻoe e hele i nā kauka ʻo SAMALYUCA
Ma kahi o 35 km ma ka hema o Ciudad Juárez ma ke alaloa pekelala 45 (ka Panamericana). Ke hele nei mai ka hema, aia ia 70 km mai Villa Ahumada a 310 km mai Chihuahua. Ma ke ala nui hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike i nā uka ma kahi o 8 km ma nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua.
Mai ke kihi loa o ke ala hiki iā ʻoe ke hōʻea i kekahi kualono o ke one maʻemaʻe me kahi mau ʻanuʻu wale nō. Eia nō naʻe, inā ʻoe e ʻimi nei i nā dunes hoya kiʻekiʻe loa e hana i kahi alahele. Hiki i kekahi mau hakahaka o ke ala nui ke hoʻokokoke iā ʻoe. Inā ʻoe e kalaiwa i kahi kaʻa, e makaʻala mau i ka nānā ʻana i ka paʻa o ke ala a mai hoʻokokoke loa no ka mea maʻalahi ka paʻa ʻana i ke one.
ʻElua mau ʻāpana i paipai ʻia. ʻO ka mua ma ke kūkulu ʻākau o ka hoʻololi e alakaʻi i ke kaona o Samalayuca. Hele ʻo ia i ka hikina a skirt i ka pae mauna El Presidio a hiki i ke kihi ʻākau hikina o kahi one, mai kahi e hiki ai iā ʻoe ke hele i loko. Hānau ʻia ka lua ma ka ʻaoʻao hikina hema o ka Sierra Samalayuca, ma kahi pono o kahi mākaʻi mākaʻi hoʻokolokolo e noho ai. "Ke poʻo komohana kēlā āpau a alakaʻi i kekahi mau mahiā kahi e hiki ai iā ʻoe ke hoʻomau i ka wāwae (i ka hema). No kahi hiʻohiʻona panorama, piʻi mai ka wahi kiko a hiki i ka Sierra Samalayuca i ke kiʻekiʻe e like me kou makemake; ʻaʻole lōʻihi a pali nā ala o laila.
Inā ʻoe e ʻimi nei i nā lawelawe mākaʻikaʻi (noho, nā hale ʻaina, nā ʻike, a me nā mea ʻē aʻe), aia nā mea kokoke loa ma Ciudad Juárez. ʻO ke kaona o Samalayuca he mau hale kūʻai wale ʻelua kahi e hiki ai iā ʻoe ke kūʻai i nā soda anuanu a me nā meaʻai māmā.
Puna: Un Mexico Mexico No. 254 / ʻApelila 1998
Mea kākau moʻolelo a mea kākau moʻolelo. He loea ʻo ia no Geography and History and Historical Journalism ma ka Faculty of Philosophy a me nā Letters o ka National Autonomous University of Mexico, kahi e hoʻāʻo ai ʻo ia e hoʻolaha i kāna delirium ma o nā kihi ʻē aʻe e hana ana i kēia ʻāina.
