ʻO ka waina mua i nā manawa koloneial, ma hope ka pia, liʻiliʻi i ka hana ʻana o ka ʻāina i nā mea inu ʻelua i ulu a lilo i ʻāpana nui o kā mākou hoʻokele waiwai.
No Waina
I loko o nā makahiki mua o ke kolone, nā māla waina a pau e ulu pono a aia nō i waenakonu o ka ʻāina a kanu ʻia ka hapa nui o Kaleponi. Ma hope o ka ʻike ʻana i ke ola o nā ʻano hihiu, ua hoʻomaka ka poʻe lanakila mua e hoʻopili a kanu i nā mea kanu hou. I ka makahiki 1612, no ka pale ʻana i ka hoʻokele waiwai metropolitan, ke kanu ʻana i nā kumu waina, ka hoʻoulu ʻana i nā silkworms, pāpā ʻia ka hana ʻana i nā canvases maikaʻi a me nā huahana ʻē aʻe he nui. Ma hope mai, ka lawe ʻia ʻana mai o nā waina mai Peru a me Chile. Ma mua o kēlā, ua hoʻokumu mua ʻo Francisco de Urdiñola i kāna hale hana waina ma ka ʻāina ʻo Santa María de las Parras. I ka lole pale kaua Querétaro mai ka makahiki 1660, hiki iā mākou ke ʻike i nā pā waina.
Ma hope o ke Kūʻokoʻa, ua hoʻololi ʻia nā lula e pale ai i ka hana aupuni a me nā lawe mai i nā waina a me nā ʻuhane i ʻauhau nui ʻia. ʻO Humboldt, i kekahi mau makahiki i hala aku nei, ua mahalo nui i nā māla māla o Paso del Norte a me nā Panalāʻau Loko: ua ulu lākou, a ʻoiai ua nui nā haunaele o ka manawa, ua māhuahua lākou.
I ka wā o Porfiriato ua ulu ka ʻai o nā waina, no ka mea, ʻoi aku ka ʻae ākea ʻana o kā Coahuila a me San Luis, ua hoʻonui ʻia kā lākou lawe ʻana mai. I ka hopena o ka 19 a me ke kenekulia 20 mau kenekulia, 81% o ka hua waina i hoʻohana ʻia e hana i ka waina a ua hoʻopau ʻia he 11% e like me nā hua; ʻO nā makahiki ma mua, a hiki i ka 24% i hoʻolālā ʻia e hana i nā ʻuhane, akā ʻo ka pōmaikaʻi o kēia mau makahiki i ʻae nā papa mea kūʻai aku o ka brandy a i ʻole ka cognac e hoʻāʻo wale inā mai Palani mai ia.
Mai nā manawa mamao loa i kaulana nā māla waina o Aguascalientes, Coahuila, Baja Kaleponi, Durango, Zacatecas, Sonora, Chihuahua, Querétaro, Guanajuato a me San Luis Potosí. Ma kahi e ʻoluʻolu ai ke aniau, ua lūlū mau nā mikionali ma luna o nā ʻāina a mālama i kā lākou hoʻolaha ʻana. Loaʻa kā mākou ʻoihana waina i kēia mau māla mua o nā mākua.
E pili ana i ka pia
ʻO ka hana pia ʻana he artisanal a kaupalena ʻia a hiki i ka hopena o ke kenekulia 19. Aia kekahi mau hale hana pia ma Mexico City a me Toluca, akā ua hana ʻia lākou ma kahi pae liʻiliʻi. I ka makahiki 1890, ua hoʻokomo ʻia ka mea hana nui ma Monterrey, hiki ke hana i nā pahu he 10,000 a me nā ʻōmole he 5,000 i ka lā. ʻEhā mau makahiki ma hope mai ua wehe ʻia kekahi ma Orizaba, ʻoi aku ka nui. ʻO kāna kūleʻa nui i ʻike i nā pono kahiko i loko o ka ʻāina i hōʻano hou ʻia.
Ua hana ʻia ka pia ma Orizaba mai ka hoʻomaka o ke kenekulia 18; Ma hope, i ka 1896, ua hoʻokumu ka ʻoihana Kelemania a me Palani, ʻo Messrs Henry Manthey lāua ʻo Guillermo Hasse, me ke kākoʻo o nā poʻo like ʻole o Veracruz a me Orizaba, i ka ʻoihana pia mua ma 1904.
Ma loko o ke kenekulia 20, ua ʻike ʻia kahi moʻo o nā loli i ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana o ka heluna o ka lehulehu: ʻo ka berena keʻokeʻo e pani i ka tortilla, nā cigake, nā kōpaʻa, a me ka pia pulque. Ma ke ala like, nā cantinas i nā pulquerías a me nā kaola i nā hale inu. I kēia lā ʻo pia ka ʻāpana o kā mākou ola i kēlā me kēia lā. Wahi a ka mea kākau ʻo Marcet aia he pia cantinera: melancholic a me nā mele e hoʻolilo ka mea koa i submarine me kahi tequila. Aia kekahi pia homebrew; hoʻomaha kēia a haʻuki hoʻi, kīwī a i ʻole nā hoanoho a me nā kaikoʻeke. Ma nā ʻano ʻē aʻe, manaʻo ka mea kākau ʻo ia ke ola aupuni.
