Ma hope o ke ala o nā mea ʻimi a me nā mikionali i hana i nā ala mua ma ka moku ʻo Baja Kaleponi, ua hele ka huakaʻi mai Mexico i ʻike ʻole ʻia ma ke ala like, ma ka wāwae mua a ma ke kaʻa kaʻa, e hoʻopau i ka hoʻokele ʻana i kahi kayak. Eia mākou i ka pae mua o kēia mau huakaʻi.
Ma hope o ke ala o nā mea ʻimi a me nā mikionali i hana i nā ala mua ma ka moku ʻo Baja Kaleponi, ua hele ka huakaʻi mai Mexico i ʻike ʻole ʻia ma ke ala like, ma ka wāwae mua a ma ke kaʻa kaʻa, e hoʻopau i ka hoʻokele ʻana i kahi kayak. Eia mākou i ka pae mua o kēia mau huakaʻi.
Ua hoʻomaka mākou i kēia ʻano huakaʻi i mea e ukali ai i nā kapuwaʻi o kēlā poʻe mākaʻikaʻi Baja Kaleponi kahiko, ʻoiai ua lako pono mākou me nā pono haʻuki o kēia au.
ʻO ka nui loa o nā momi i ke kai kūʻono o La Paz i hiki ʻole ke pale ʻia no Hernán Cortés a me kona mau luina, ka mea i hehi mua i ka moku ʻo Baja Kaleponi ma Mei 3 i ka makahiki 1535. ʻEkolu mau moku me 500 mau kānaka i hiki aku e noho ma laila no ʻelua mau makahiki. , a hiki i nā mea kūpilikiʻi like ʻole, e like me ka inaina o ka Pericúes a me ka Guaycuras, ua hoʻokūʻē iā lākou e haʻalele i ka ʻāina. Ma hope, i ka makahiki 1596, holo aku ʻo Sebastián Vizcaíno ma ke kai komohana, a mahalo iā ia ua hiki iā ia ke hana i ka palapala ʻāina mua o Baja Kaleponi, i hoʻohana ʻia e ka Jesuits no ʻelua haneli mau makahiki. No laila, i ka makahiki 1683 hoʻokumu ʻo Makua Kino i ka nuʻukia o San Bruno, ka mua o nā mikiona he iwakālua a puni ka panalāʻau.
No nā kumu mōʻaukala, logistic a me climatological, ua hoʻoholo mākou e hana i nā huakaʻi mua ma ka ʻaoʻao hema o ka peninsula. Ua hana ʻia ka huakaʻi i ʻekolu mau anuu; ʻo ka mea mua (i haʻi ʻia i kēia ʻatikala) i hana ʻia ma ka wāwae, ʻo ka lua e ka keke mauna a ʻo ke kolu e ka kayak kai.
Ua haʻi mai kahi mea pili o ka ʻāina iā mākou e pili ana i ke ala hele wāwae a nā mikionali Iesū i ukali ai mai La Paz a Loreto, a me ka manaʻo o ka loaʻa hou ʻana o ke ala, ua hoʻomaka mākou e hoʻolālā i ka huakaʻi.
Me ke kōkua o nā palapala ʻāina kahiko a me INEGI, a me nā ʻōlelo Jesuit, ua loaʻa iā mākou ka ranchería de Primera Agua, kahi e pau ai ka hakahaka mai La Paz. I kēia manawa hoʻomaka kā mākou hele wāwae.
Pono pono e kāhea i nā lekiō ma o ke kahua lekiō ʻo La Paz e launa pū me kahi muleteer o ka ʻāina i hiki ke kiʻi i nā hoki a ʻike i ke ala. Ua hana mākou i nā leka ma ka hola 4:00 o ke ahiahi, a ma ia manawa ua kamaʻilio pū nā lawaiʻa o San Evaristo me kekahi e haʻi ana i ka nui o nā iʻa i loaʻa iā lākou a e ʻike inā e hōʻiliʻili lākou i ka huahana i kēlā lā. Ma hope loa ua launa aku mākou iā Nicolás, nāna i ʻae e hui me mākou i ke awakea o kekahi lā ma Primera Agua. Kākoʻo ʻia e ka Centro Comercial Californiaiano loaʻa iā mākou ka nui o nā meaʻai, a me ke kōkua o Baja Expeditions mai Tim Means, hoʻopaʻa mākou i ka meaʻai i nā pahu ʻeke e hoʻopaʻa i nā hoki. I ka hopena i hiki mai ka lā o ka haʻalele, piʻi mākou i ka ʻumikūmālua mau javas i ka kalaka a Tim a ma hope o ka huakaʻi ʻana i ʻehā hola lepo lepo, pā i ko mākou poʻo, ua hōʻea mākou i Primera Agua: kekahi mau hale lāʻau me nā kaupaku pepa a me kahi māla liʻiliʻi. ʻo ka mea wale nō i koe, he ʻokoʻa nā kao o nā kamaʻāina. "No Monterrey lākou, Nuevo León, e kūʻai mai i kā mākou holoholona," haʻi lākou iā mākou. ʻO nā kao kā lākou mea e waiwai ai.
I ke awakea o ka lā ua hoʻomaka mākou e hele wāwae ma ke ala o nā mikionali Iesuite. ʻO nā mulete, ʻo Nicolás a me kāna mea kōkua ʻo Juan Méndez, i hele mua me nā hoki; a laila ʻo John, he kanaka hulihonua holoholo ʻAmelika, ʻo Remo, a ʻo ʻAmelika kekahi a me ka mea kūkulu hale ma Todos Santos; ʻO Eugenia, ka wahine wale nō i ʻaʻa e ʻaʻa i ka lā e ʻaʻā ana a me ka hoʻomāinoino e kali mai nei iā mākou ma ke ala, a ʻo ka mea hope loa ʻo Alfredo a me aʻu, nā mea kūkala nūhou o Mexico, ka poʻe i makemake mau e paʻi kiʻi maikaʻi loa, noho mākou ma hope.
Ma ka mua ua ʻike maikaʻi ʻia ke ala, ʻoiai hoʻohana ka poʻe kamaʻāina iā ia e ʻimi no ka wahie a lawe i nā holoholona, akā liʻiliʻi iki i ka nalowale ʻana a ʻike mākou e hele wāwae ana i ka ʻāina. ʻAʻole mālama ka malu o nā mea kanu a me ka cacti i hale no ka lā, a no laila hoʻomau mākou i ka hehi ʻana i nā pōhaku ʻula a hiki i ka loaʻa ʻana o kahi kahawai i loaʻa ka wai ʻē. ʻO nā hoki, ka mea hana ʻole i nā lā kaumaha, hoʻolei iā lākou iho i ka honua. Maʻalahi ka meaʻai ma aneʻi a ma loko o ka huakaʻi holoʻokoʻa: tuna sandwiches and a apple. ʻAʻole hiki iā mākou ke lawe i nā ʻano meaʻai ʻē aʻe no ka mea pono mākou i kahi e hali ai ka wai.
ʻAʻohe mea maoli e haʻi iā mākou ʻo ke ala o nā mikionali kēia, akā i ke kālailai ʻana i nā palapala ʻāina, maopopo iā mākou ʻo ia ke ala maʻalahi loa, me ka ʻole o nā piʻi a me nā lalo.
Sunny, ua hōʻea mākou i ka papa ʻaina ma Kapalakiko, kahi i loaʻa ai iā mākou nā ala o kekahi dia. ʻO nā hoki, ʻaʻole i ukana hou, ua pakele i ka ʻimi ʻana i ka meaʻai, a ʻo mākou, e moe ana i ka honua, ʻaʻole hiki iā mākou ke ʻaelike e hoʻomākaukau i ka ʻaina ahiahi
Ua hopohopo mau mākou i ka wai, no ka mea, ua nalowale koke nā kanaono liters a nā hoki i hali.
I mea e hoʻomaikaʻi ai i ke anuanu o ke kakahiaka, hoʻonohonoho mākou i kahi hoʻomoana i ka wikiwiki hiki iā mākou, a no ka mea he ʻumi mau hola o ka hele wāwae ʻana ma lalo o nā kukuna o ka lā a ma o nā ʻāina hihiu kahi mea koʻikoʻi.
Hele mākou ma ka ʻaoʻao o ke ana a hoʻomau i ke ala hele mākou ma ke kula ʻo Kakiwi: kahi pā e 5 mika mai ke komohana a hikina a me 4.5 km mai ka hema a ʻākau, a mākou i lawe ai. ʻO nā kūlanakauhale e hoʻopuni ana i kēia pāpū ua haʻalele ʻia ma mua o ʻekolu mau makahiki i hala. He aha kahi kuleana e kanu ai, he loko maloʻo a neoneo hoʻi i kēia manawa. Ke haʻalele nei i ke kūlanakauhale haʻalele loa ma nā kapakai o kēia loko, ua hoʻokipa ʻia mākou e ka makani mai ke kai o Cortez, mai kahi kiʻekiʻe o 600 m hiki iā mākou ke leʻaleʻa i ko mākou maʻalahi. Ma lalo, iki iki i ka ʻākau, hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike i ka hale holoholona ʻo Los Dolores, kahi a mākou e makemake ai e hele.
ʻO ka pali i zigzagged kokoke i nā kuahiwi i lawe iā mākou i ka oasis "Los Burros". Ma waena o nā lāʻau pāma a ma kahi e pili ana i kahi kahawai wai, hoʻolauna ʻo Nicolás iā mākou i ka poʻe, he poʻe ʻohana paha.
Ke hakakā nei me nā hoki i hāʻule ʻole lākou i ka honua, ua hāʻule ka ʻauinalā. ʻO nā ʻanuʻu a mākou i lawe ai i ke one hoʻokuʻu, i nā kahawai, lohi. Ua ʻike mākou ua kokoke mākou, no ka mea mai luna o nā kuahiwi ʻike mākou i nā wahi neoneo o ka hale hānai ʻo Los Dolores. ʻO ka hope, akā i loko o ka pōʻeleʻele, ua loaʻa iā mākou ka pā o ka mahiʻai. ʻO Lucio, ka hoaaloha o Nicolás, ko mākou muleteer, i hoʻokipa iā mākou i loko o ka hale, kahi kūkulu o ke kenekulia i hala.
Ke ʻimi nei i nā mikiona Jesuit, hele wāwae mākou i 3 km i ke komohana e hōʻea i ka misiona ʻo Los Dolores, hoʻokumu ʻia i ka makahiki 1721 e Makua Guillén, ka mea nāna i hana ke ala mua i La Paz. I kēlā manawa ua hoʻomaha kēia wahi i ka poʻe i huakaʻi mai Loreto a ke kai kūʻono.
Na 1737 Makua Lambert, Hostell, a me Bernhart i kūkulu hou i ka mikiona i ke komohana, ma kekahi ʻaoʻao o ke kahawai ʻo La Pasión. Mai laila mai, ua hoʻonohonoho ʻia nā kipa ʻana o ka haipule i nā mikionali ʻē aʻe o ia wahi, e like me La Concepción, La Santísima Trinidad, La Redención a me La Resurrección. Eia nō naʻe, i ka makahiki 1768, i ka huakaʻi a ka misi a Los Dolores he 458 poʻe, kauoha ke kalaunu Sepania i ka poʻe Jesuits e haʻalele i kēia a me nā mikiona ʻē aʻe.
Ua loaʻa iā mākou nā mea pohō o ka hale pule. ʻEkolu mau paia i kūkulu ʻia ma luna o kahi puʻu kokoke i ke kahawai, nā mea kanu a ko Lucio ʻohana i kanu ai a me kahi ana, a ma muli o ke ʻano a me nā ana i hiki ai ke waiho aku i nā hale mikionali a me ka hale paʻa. Inā i kēia lā, me ka loaʻa ʻole o ka ua mai: ʻekolu mau makahiki i hala aku nei, he oasis nō ia, i ka manawa i noho ai nā Jesuit iā ia he paradaiso paha ia.
Mai aneʻi, mai ka pā holoholona ʻo Los Dolores, ua ʻike mākou ʻaʻole ʻike ko mākou hoa aloha ʻo Nicolás i ke ala. ʻAʻole ʻo ia i haʻi iā mākou, akā iā mākou e hele ana i nā ʻaoʻao ʻē aʻe i ka mea a mākou i hoʻolālā ai ma nā palapala ʻāina, ua ʻikea ʻaʻole hiki iā ia ke loaʻa ke ala. Paʻa mua i ka puʻu, 2 km i uka, a laila ma ka pōhaku kinipōpō, ma kahi e haki ai nā nalu, hele wāwae mākou a ʻike mākou i ka hakahaka. He paʻakikī ke hele wāwae ma ke kai; ʻO nā hoki, makaʻu loa i ka wai, hoʻāʻo e loaʻa i kā lākou ala i waena o nā cacti, hoʻolei i nā javas āpau. I ka hopena, ua huki kēlā me kēia o mākou i kahi hoki.
ʻO ke āpau i kahi ʻano maikaʻi ʻole i hiki i kahi kalaka 4 x 4 e komo iā ia i loko. Akā no mākou, ʻoiai me ka ʻeha o ke kua a me nā manamana wāwae hū, he ʻoluʻolu ia. Ke hele nei mākou i kahi ala palekana. I ko mākou huakaʻi 28 km i kahi laina pololei mai Los Dolores ua hoʻoholo mākou e kū a kūkulu i kahi hoʻomoana.
ʻAʻole mākou i haʻalele i ka hiamoe, akā i kēlā me kēia lā ke ala aʻe mākou aia he mau manaʻo mai Romeo, Eugenia a ʻo kaʻu hoʻi e pili ana i nā ʻeha like ʻole i loaʻa iā mākou i ke kino no ka hoʻoikaika kino.
ʻO ke nakinaki ʻana i ka ukana ma luna o nā hoki i lawe iā mākou i hoʻokahi hola, a no laila ua hoʻoholo mākou e hele i mua. Ma kahi mamao ua ʻike mākou i kahi hale ʻelua papa mai ke kenekulia i hala, e ʻike nei aia kokoke ke kūlanakauhale ʻo Tambabiche.
Hoʻokipa maikaʻi ka poʻe iā mākou. ʻOiai mākou e kofe i kekahi o nā hale pepa e hoʻopuni ana i ka hale, ua haʻi lākou iā mākou ʻo Mr. Donaciano, i ka loaʻa ʻana a me ke kūʻai aku ʻana i kahi momi nui, ua neʻe ʻo ia me kona ʻohana i Tambabiche. Ma laila ʻo ia i kūkulu ai i ka hale nui ʻelua papa e hoʻomau i ka ʻimi ʻana i nā momi.
ʻO Doña Epifania, ka wahine wahine mua loa o ke kaona a ʻo ka mea hope loa e noho ana i ka hale o Donaciano, ua hōʻike haʻaheo mai iā mākou i kāna mau mea hoʻonaninani: he mau apo pepeiao a me kahi apo momi hina. He waiwai mālama pono ʻia.
ʻO lākou a pau nā ʻohana mamao o ka mea hoʻokumu o ke kaona. Ke hele mākaʻikaʻi nei i nā hale e aʻo hou aʻe e pili ana i kā lākou mōʻaukala, ua ʻike mākou iā Juan Manuel, "El Diablo", kahi kāne me ka ʻāpana manoanoa a me ka ʻoʻopa, nāna i haʻi mai iā mākou me ka lehelehe kekeʻe e pili ana i ka lawaiʻa ʻana a pehea e loaʻa ai kēia wahi. "ʻO kaʻu wahine," i ʻōlelo ʻo ia me ka ʻino, "ke kaikamahine a Doña Epifania a ua noho wau ma ka hale hānai ʻo San Fulano, ua hopu wau i kaʻu kāne a i loko o hoʻokahi lā aia ia ma aneʻi. ʻAʻole lākou i aloha nui iaʻu, akā ua koi aku au ”. Laki mākou i ka hui ʻana me ia no ka mea ʻaʻole hiki iā mākou ke hilinaʻi hou iā Nicolás. No ke kumukūʻai maikaʻi, ua ʻae ʻo "El Diablo" e hele pū me mākou i ko mākou lā hope loa.
Loaʻa iā mākou kahi puʻuhonua ma Punta Prieta, kokoke i Tambabiche. Ua kuke ʻo Nicolás a me kāna mea kōkua iā mākou i kahi mea paʻi momona momona.
I ka hola 10 o ke kakahiaka, a holomua ma ke ala, ua hōʻike ʻia kā mākou alakaʻi hou. I hiki ai iā Agua Verde, pono ʻoe e hele ma waena o nā kuahiwi, ʻehā mau ala nui, e like me ka ʻike ʻia o ka puʻu kiʻekiʻe loa o nā puʻu. ʻO "El Diablo", ka mea makemake ʻole e hoʻi i hope, hōʻike iā mākou i ke ala i piʻi i ke awa a hoʻi i kāna panga. Iā mākou i hele aʻe ua holo hou mākou iā ia a ua hōʻike hou ʻia ke ʻano like; Pēlā mākou i hele ai ma ka hale hānai ʻo Carrizalito, San Francisco a me San Fulano i Agua Verde, kahi a mākou i hōʻea ai ma hope o ka hoʻokikina ʻana i nā hoki e hele i ka pali.
No ka haʻalele ʻana iā San Fulano ranch, hele wāwae mākou no ʻelua mau hola a hiki i ke kaona ʻo Agua Verde, mai laila mākou e hāhai ai i ke ala o nā mikiona e nā keke kaʻa mauna. Akā e hoʻomau kēlā moʻolelo i kahi ʻatikala ʻē aʻe e paʻi ʻia i kēia makasina like.
Ma hope o ka huakaʻi ʻana i 90 km i loko o ʻelima mau lā, ua ʻike mākou ua holoi ʻia ke ala i hoʻohana ʻia e nā mikionali mai ka mōʻaukala, akā hiki ke hoʻomaʻemaʻe maʻalahi ʻia e ka hoʻopili hou ʻana i nā mikiona e ka ʻāina.
Puna: Un Mexico Mexico No. 273 / Nowemapa 1999
