He aha nā lole i hoʻohana ʻia ma Mekiko i kēia wā koʻikoʻi o kona mōʻaukala? Hōʻike aku ʻo Mekiko ʻike ʻole iā ia iā ʻoe ...
Ma Mekiko, ua hoʻokokoke ʻia kahi ʻano ma kahi ʻano wehewehe, me ka ʻole o nā hoʻokokoke kūpono i noʻonoʻo ʻia i loko o kahi pōʻaiapili ākea. ʻO ia ke kumu e kūpono ai e ʻōlelo, no nā noiʻi e hiki mai ana, ka ʻike ʻana i ke kumuhana o ka lole nui ma waena o ka pōʻaiapili e pili ana i ka ʻaoʻao moʻomeheu a me ka ideological. A ʻoiai, he mea nui ia e waiho i kēia pilikia ma loko o ke ola o kēlā me kēia lā o nā Mekiko i ke kenekulia ʻumikūmāiwa i nā pae kaiāulu āpau, i mea e hoʻonui ai i kona ʻike.
ʻO ka wehewehe kikoʻī o nā ʻano o nā lole o ka hoʻoulu ʻana, ʻo ia hoʻi ʻo ʻEulopa, i hoʻololi ʻia i ko mākou kaiapuni ʻaʻole lawa. Akā, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi e noʻonoʻo i ka hoʻopuka o ka lole i ka ikaika i ka hapa lua o ka 19 kenekulia ma Mekiko, ma muli o ka hopena o ʻelua ʻano kumu. Ma kekahi ʻaoʻao, ke kumumanaʻo, ka manaʻo nui e pili ana i nā wahine, ko lākou kiʻi a me kā lākou hana ma nā pae kaiāulu āpau, kahi ʻano e hele pū me nā loina o kēia wā ma nā puke a me nā hana noʻeau. Ma ka ʻaoʻao ʻē aʻe, ka ulu ʻana o ka ʻoihana lole i ko mākou ʻāina a me nā mea hiki ke lawe ʻia mai nā lole a me nā mea kōkua e hoʻokō pono ai i nā lumi lole i hoʻohana ʻia me ka hoʻohana mau ʻia. I ka wā o Porfiriato, ua ulu ka ʻoihana lole, ʻoiai ua hoʻokumu ʻia kāna hana i ka hana o nā lole pulupulu a me nā kapa pale.
Nā pālule, nā pālule, nā pālule, nā corset, nā pāpale lace, nā petticoats he nui, nā crinolines, nā crinolines, nā kāmeka, nā kāmeka, nā frū, nā silika frū, nā pouf, ka pīpī, a me nā mea ʻē aʻe; he helu pau ʻole o nā lole i nā lole keʻokeʻo, ka pulupulu a me ka lilina, a ma ia mea i manaʻo ʻia e hoʻonui nā wahine i ko lākou nani. ʻO nā mea laulā e like me nā umbrellas, nā pāpale, nā pale, nā pūliki lace, nā mikina, nā ʻeke, nā sneakers, nā wāwae wāwae, a me nā mea hou aku.
I ka hapa lua o ke kenekulia 19, ka manaʻo nui ʻo ia nā wahine, ma o ko lākou alo, kā lākou mea hoʻonaninani a me ko lākou lole, hāʻawi i ka hanohano kāne a ʻo ia ke kumu ola o kā lākou kūleʻa waiwai, kahi pae i ka ikaika ma waena o ka poʻe i kapa ʻia "poʻe o lauoho ".
Ma hope o nā makahiki ma hope o ke kūʻokoʻa, ma lalo o ka mana o Napoleonic, ua hoʻomaka mālie ka hoʻonui ʻana i nā lole ʻiki a me nā tubular o nā manawa o ka Iturbide Empire ma o kahi "ʻano" kahi i hoʻohana ʻole ai nā wahine i nā lole he nui e lole ai. Ua kuhikuhi ʻo Marquesa Calderón de la Barca i nā "lole waiwai" ʻoiai he ʻano ʻelemakule iki i hoʻokomo ʻia e nā wahine Mekiko, i ʻike ʻia e ka waiwai o kā lākou mea nani.
Ma waena o 1854 a me 1868, a keu hoʻi i loko o nā makahiki o Maximilian's Empire, ua hōʻea nā crinolines a me nā crinolines i ko lākou piko, ʻaʻole ia he mea i ʻoi aku i nā hale i hiki ke kākoʻo i ka palule a ʻekolu mika ke anawaena a kokoke kanakolu mika i loko. lole. No laila ke kiʻi o ka wahine, he kiʻi kiʻi kiʻi ʻole i mālama i kona kaiapuni ma kahi mamao. ʻAʻole hiki ke kiʻi ʻia e like me ke ʻano aloha, evocative a me nostalgic i ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana i ka ʻoiaʻiʻo o kēlā me kēia lā: e noʻonoʻo i ka paʻakikī nui e noho a neʻe paha, a me ka hōʻoluʻolu ʻole e hoʻokō i ke ola o kēlā me kēia lā.
ʻO Antonio García Cubas, i kāna hana hanohano The Book of My Memories, i kuhikuhi ai i kēia ʻano e hele mai ana mai Palisa i "hōʻike i nā wahine i nā hakakā a me ka hilahila". Ua wehewehe ʻo ia i ka mea i kapa ʻia ʻo "crinoline" ma ke ʻano he pale kila i hana ʻia me ka canvas starched a i hoʻopili ʻia a ʻo ka crinoline "ka hollower" i hana ʻia "he ʻehā a ʻelima paha peona rattan a i ʻole nā pale kila lahilahi, mai ka liʻiliʻi a i ke anawaena nui a hoʻopili ʻia e nā lipine o canvas ". Ua hōʻike like ka mea kākau me ka lokomaikaʻi i nā pilikia i hāʻawi ʻia e ka crinoline "traitorous": ua ala ʻo ia ma kahi kaomi liʻiliʻi, i hōʻike ʻia i loko o ka wai, e hōʻike ana i ka ʻaoʻao i loko a lilo i "hale hōʻikeʻike ʻole" i ke aloha o ka makani. No ka hale keaka a me ke keaka mele, a me nā hālāwai a me nā pāʻina ahiahi, ua hoʻomaikaʻi ʻia ka neckline, me nā poʻohiwi ʻōlohelohe, a ua maʻalahi ka helehelena o nā pūlima a me ke kiʻekiʻe o ka pūhaka. Eia kekahi, ua hōʻike ʻia ke kaʻapuni o ke kino i nā ʻāʻī manuahi, kahi e akahai ai nā mea Mekiko, inā mākou e hoʻohālikelike iā lākou me nā hoʻohana e pili ana i kēia ma ka ʻaha Farani o Eugenia de Montijo.
I ke ao, keu hoʻi e hele i ka nui, ua hoʻomaʻalahi ka poʻe wahine i ko lākou lole a komo i nā mantillas Sepania a me nā pale silika, ka muli loa, a i uhi ʻia me ka ʻāpana silika. Hōʻike ʻo García Cubas ʻaʻohe mea i hele i ka hale pule me ka pāpale. E pili ana i kēia mau mea kōkua, ua wehewehe ka mea kākau iā lākou ʻo "kēlā mau ipuhao i piha i nā pua, kēlā mau hale manu a me nā mea implausible me nā lipine, nā hulu a me nā ʻeheu o ka moa e kau nā lede ma luna o ko lākou mau poʻo a ua kapa ʻia lākou he pāpale."
No ka ho'ākāka ʻana o nā lole, ʻaʻole i lawa ka hoʻonui ʻia a me nā ʻano ʻano ʻāpana lole i kāna hana i ko mākou ʻāina, no laila ua lawe ʻia mai ka hapa nui o nā lole a hana ʻia nā lole e ke kope ʻana i nā hiʻohiʻona ʻEulopa, ʻo ia hoʻi nā mea Parisian, e nā mea hana lole a i ʻole nā mea humuhumu ʻōiwi. Aia kekahi mau hale kūʻai i kūʻai aku nā ona Palani i nā hoʻohālikelike kokoke i ʻehā mau manawa ke kumu kūʻai ma mua o Palisa, ma muli o nā dute i hoʻohui ʻia i nā loaʻa kālā. ʻO kēia mau kālā i uku hauʻoli ʻia e ka palena palena o nā wahine waiwai.
No kā lākou ʻāpana, hoʻolaʻa nā wahine o ke kaona i ka hana - nā mea kūʻai aku i nā mea kanu, nā pua, nā hua, ka wai, nā tortilla, nā meaʻai, a me kā lākou hana, ka mea wili, ka mea hao, ka hale holoi, ka tamalera, ka buñolera a he nui hou aku me "ko lākou lauoho ʻeleʻele pololei, ko lākou mau niho keʻokeʻo e hōʻike me ka ʻakaʻaka pololei a maʻalahi ..." - komo lākou i nā huipile a me nā petticoats o nā huluhulu kala a i ʻole nā lole pulupulu. ʻO kā lākou mau mea hoʻonaninani i hana ʻia me nā "lei a me nā relquaries, nā apo kālā ma ko lākou mau lima a me nā apo pepeiao kola" a me kā lākou mau apo pepeiao gula, ka mea a ka wahine i hana i nā enchilada, a me ka mea kūʻai aku i ka wai hou i komo. ʻOiai, ma ke ʻano he lole nui ka shawl, i hana ʻia me ke siliki a i ʻole ka pulupulu, nona ka waiwai i pili i kona lōʻihi, ke ʻano o nā wēlau a ma hope o ka hūnā ʻana o nā wahine: "hūnā lākou i ka lae, ka ihu a me ka waha a ʻike wale ʻo ko lākou mau maka maʻemaʻe, e like me waena o nā wahine ʻAlapia ... a inā ʻaʻole lākou e ʻaʻahu iā lākou, ʻano ʻōlohelohe lākou ... "Kū ke alo o ka wahine kuʻuna Kina, ʻaʻahu ʻia i loko o" kahi petticoat o loko me ka lace huluhulu i ulana ʻia ma nā kihi, a kapa ʻia lākou he ʻōlelo aʻoaʻo enchilada; ma luna o kēlā petticoat hele kekahi i hana ʻia me ka beaver a i ʻole ke siliki i ulana ʻia me nā lipine o nā kala ahi a i ʻole nā sequins; ʻo ka pālule nani, i humuhumu ʻia me ke silika a i ʻole nā lei ... me ke kapa silika i hoʻolei ʻia ma luna o ka poʻohiwi ... a me kona wāwae pōkole i kahi kāmaʻa satin ... "
ʻO kaʻaʻahu kāne kāne, ʻokoʻa ka wahine, mālama nui ʻia i loko o ka ʻoluʻolu a me ka hana hana. ʻO nā mahiʻai a me nā kahu hānai ʻōiwi i puhi ʻia e ka lā, ʻaʻahu i ka pālule hilahila ʻole a me nā kapa keʻokeʻo keʻokeʻo keʻokeʻo. No laila ke ulu ʻana o ka hana ʻana i nā kapa pulupulu no nā hale hana Mekiko he nui i ala i ka hopena o ke kenekulia 19.
ʻO nā mea hānai holoholona, ʻo kā lākou mau lole komo me "nā pale umauma suede ʻelua, i kāhiko ʻia ma nā ʻaoʻao me nā pihi kālā ... ʻo nā mea ʻē aʻe e hoʻokomo i ka lole me ka lei gula ...", kahi pāpale i kāhiko ʻia me ka ʻāpana kālā, nā ʻeheu nui a i nā ʻaoʻao o ke kīʻaha "kekahi mau pā kālā i ke ʻano o kahi ʻaeto a i ʻole he mau makemake gula". Ua uhi ʻo ia i kona kino me ka pūlima lima o Acámbaro, kahi ʻano cape, a me kahi kope mai iā Saltillo, i manaʻo ʻia ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi.
ʻO nā kāhiko kāne ke kapa komo frock, me ka pāpale luna, ka tailcoat, ka ʻaʻahu koa, a i ʻole ka ranchero a i ʻole ka lole charro. Ua like ka lole o nā kāne a like ka like mai ka wā i hoʻohana ʻia ai ka palule e Benito Juárez a me ka hui o nā liberal, ka poʻe i haʻaheo i ka austerity repubalika ma ke ʻano he hōʻailona o ka pono a me ke aupuni maikaʻi. Ua pili kēia ʻano i nā wahine. He mea pono e hoʻomanaʻo i ka hoʻomanaʻo hoʻomanaʻo ʻole i ka leka a Margarita Maza de Juárez i hana ai i kāna kāne: kipa kipa ... "
I ka pau ʻana o ke kenekulia ʻumikūmāiwa, ka mīkini ʻana o ka ʻāpana lole a me ka emi ʻana o ke kumu kūʻai o nā lole pulupulu, i hui pū ʻia me ka hoihoi i ka uhi ʻana a me ka hūnā ʻana, hoʻokuʻu i nā wahine mai ka crinoline, akā hoʻohui i ka pīhoihoi a koe ka pāpale koʻokoʻo kohola. Ma kahi o ka makahiki 1881, ua hana ʻia nā lole makamae no nā wahine Mekiko i nā lole like ʻole, e like me ka silika faya, a kāhiko ʻia me nā lei: "Ua hoʻopaʻapaʻa nā wahine i ka pūhaka liʻiliʻi, ua hoʻokō ʻia me nā corsets paʻa loa a ua lawe lākou i ka hanu. hana lākou iā lākou i swoon, hoʻokūkū i ka profusion lace, appliqués, pleats a embroidery. Ua aʻo ka wahine o ka manawa a me nā neʻe kikoʻī a me kāna kiʻi i piha i nā kāhiko i hōʻailona ʻia i ke aloha aloha.
Ma kahi o 1895, ua hoʻonui ka nui o nā lole i nā silika, nā veveta, nā satin, ka lace kahiko e hōʻike ana i ka hanohano. Hoʻonui ka hana a nā wahine, no ka laʻana, e hoʻomaʻamaʻa i kekahi mau haʻuki e like me ka tennis, kolepa, paikikala a me ka ʻauʻau ʻana. Eia hou, ʻo ka silhouette wahine e lilo i mea hou a hoʻomaʻemaʻe.
I ka nalo ʻana o ka nui o nā lole, ma kahi o 1908 ua pau ka corset, no laila ua hoʻololi maoli ʻia ke ʻano o ke kino wahine a i ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ke kenekulia 20 ua laumania a hoʻokuʻu nā lole. Hoʻohuli radical i ka helehelena o nā wahine a hōʻike i kā lākou ʻano hou i nā makahiki kipi e hiki mai ana.
Puna: México en el Tiempo No. 35 Malaki / ʻApelila 2000
