ʻLelo lākou, ʻo ka pulque mai Apan mai, i ka makahiki 1920, he kuʻuna nō ia. Ua hōʻea ke kaʻaahi ma Mekiko City i kēlā me kēia kakahiaka me ka pulika hou i lawelawe ʻia ma nā papa ʻaina maikaʻi loa ma ke kaiāulu ʻo Porfirian, e like me nā kauhale, ke hāpai nā wahine i ka "itacate", me ka ipu liʻiliʻi o kēia inu euphoric. .
Ke hoʻāʻo nei e loaʻa nā kumu o kēia inu lāhui, hele wau i ka puʻuwai o kāna wehewehe kuʻuna: Apan. I koʻu pūʻiwa, he aha nā koena o nā ʻāina nui i ka ʻāina i hoʻolei ʻia i ka hāmau a me ka hana ʻole no nā makahiki he nui. Ua nalowale nā māla maguey nui a hoʻohana wale ʻia kēia mau mea kanu hanohano e hoʻopau palena i nā māla bale nāna i pani iā lākou. Hana wale ʻia ʻo Pulque i nā mea liʻiliʻi no ka ʻai kūloko.
Ke noi nei ma aneʻi a holo wau i loko o Valentín Rosas, kahi tlachiquero mua, aloha a me ka hoʻomākeʻaka, nāna e hoʻoholo e hele pū me aʻu a lilo i alakaʻi noʻu. Hoʻonawaliwali ʻia e kaʻu mau ʻike ma Apan, hele wau i ke kaona ʻo Santa Rosa, kahi a Doña Gabriela Vázquez i ʻōlelo ai e ʻimi iā Don Pazcasio Gutiérrez: "Maopopo kēlā kanaka!" –Nana e wehewehe mai iā mākou.
Ke hōʻea mākou i ka hale o Mr. Gutiérrez, alakaʻi lākou iā mākou i ka pahu wai a mai kona kua pōʻeleʻele e kū i kahi ʻano ʻano o kahi kanaka ikaika i kāna mau makahiki he kanahiku. 'Lelo wau i koʻu manaʻo e ʻike "ola" i nā mea āpau e pili ana i ka pulque. Me ka manaʻo hou ʻole, ʻae ʻo ia e kōkua iā mākou a ʻōlelo i ke aloha me kahi "E ʻike ʻoe i ka lā ʻapōpō! Ma hope o ka puka ʻana o ka lā, hele mākou i ke kuahiwi. " ʻ Hislelo kāna mau ʻōlelo iaʻu ʻaʻole kēia he mea wikiwiki.
I ka lā aʻe, ma kahi o 8 i ke kakahiaka, haʻalele mākou i ke kuahiwi i kahi wikiwiki loa. "Inā ʻaʻohe wikiwiki, e kakali ana ka pulika iaʻu ma laila!" –Ua haʻi mai ʻo ia iaʻu i ka wā e makemake ana wau e holo i ka ʻāpiki, kāna hoki maikaʻi.
"I koʻu wā kamaliʻi," wahi a Don Pazcasio, "ʻo Apan he mea ʻē aʻe. Uhi ka magueys i ka ʻāina holoʻokoʻa. ʻO ka hapa nui o lākou i hana ma nā ʻāina nui. ʻElua mau manawa i ka lā ua ʻoki a lawe ʻo tlachiqueros i ka mead me nā acocote (guajes) a halihali i nā pahu pahu piha i nā tinacales i hiki ke hoʻopaʻa ʻia i 1 liters.
"ʻO kahi ʻāpana nui o ke kaʻina - hoʻomau ʻo Don Pazcasio - e hoʻohui i ka hua (xnaxtli) a i ʻole pulque palaoa me ka hoʻomaka o ka fermentation. I loko ona iho, maʻalahi ka hana o ka hana ʻana i ka pulque akā ua hoʻokau ʻia me ka hoʻomaloka. Ua manaʻo ʻia ka tinacal he wahi semi-kapu, a i ka hoʻomaka ʻana ua pule ʻia nā pule. ʻAʻole hiki iā ʻoe ke komo i ka pāpale, ʻaʻole ʻae ʻia nā malihini a wahine paha, a ʻaʻole pono ʻoe e ʻōlelo i nā huaʻōlelo maikaʻi ʻole, no ka mea hiki i kēia mau mea ke hōʻino i ka pā.
I ka hopena ua loaʻa iā mākou kahi maguey a lākou i lawe ai iā mākou e ʻono. Ua ʻono au! Ua wehewehe mai ʻo Don Pazcasio iaʻu ua loaʻa ka pulque mai ka fermentation o mead, ʻoiai mezcal a me tequila i loaʻa mai ka distillation o ka mead like.
"Mai ka ʻehiku a i ka 10 mau makahiki, ua hiki i ka maguey i kona wā makua, a mai ke kikowaena mai, e like me kahi artichoke nui loa e hoʻomaka ana e pehu, hoʻomaka kahi ulu nui o hoʻokahi pua e ulu," hoʻomau ʻo Don Pazcasio i kā mākou palapala. Ma mua o kona pua ʻana, hū ʻia ka mea kanu e ka ʻoki ʻana i ke koʻokoʻo e hōʻike ana i ka 'pineapple' mai kahi e wehe ʻia ana ma kahi o kanakolu a kanalima kenimika paha e wehe ai i ka mead. Hiki i kēlā me kēia mea kanu ke hana ma waena o ʻelima a ʻeono lita o ka lā. Pono e hōʻiliʻili ʻia ka wai momona i ʻelua mau lā i ka lā e pale aku ai i ka fermentation, a no ka pale ʻana i ka mea kanu mai nā mea kolo a me ka lepo, pelu ʻia kekahi mau lau ma luna o ka puka, a hoʻopili iā lākou me nā kākalaioa. Ma hope o ʻehā a ʻeono paha mahina ka mea kanu, ka mea i hana mua i nā lita o ka mead, nalowale ke kumu a maloo.
"Milky ʻo Pulque, momona a ʻono hoʻi a ʻoi aku ka nui o ka waiʻona ma mua o ka pia, akā ʻoi aku ka liʻiliʻi ma mua o ka waina. ʻOiai waiwai ia i nā wikamina, nā minelala a me nā amino acid, ʻōlelo lākou he hoʻokahi kēkelē wale nō ia o ka moa moa! Hoʻokomo ʻia nā hua pala i ka ʻola 'cured', kahi e hoʻomaikaʻi maikaʻi ai i kona ʻono a hoʻonui i ka momona. "
Aia kekahi mau hōʻike mōʻaukala o ka ʻai ʻana o kēia mea inu, ma waena o lākou kekahi mau hieroglyph Mayan a me kahi mural ma ka Great Pyramid o Cholula, ma Puebla, kahi e ʻike ʻia ai kahi hui inu inu hauʻoli. ʻO ka ʻoiaʻiʻo ʻaneʻane hoʻohana nā moʻomeheu a pau o Mekiko iā ia a hana kekahi pēlā no ʻaneʻane ʻelua tausani mau makahiki. Ua manaʻo kekahi ua komo ke akua wahine ʻo Mayahuel i ka puʻuwai o ka maguey a hoʻokuʻu i kona koko e kahe pū me ke kohu o ka mea kanu i hana i ka lāʻau. Wahi a kekahi poʻe, ua ʻike ʻo Papantzin, kahi aliʻi kiʻekiʻe o Toltec, pehea e lawe ai i ka mead a hoʻouna aku i kāna kaikamahine iā Xóchitl me kahi makana o kēia ʻono momona na ka Mōʻī Tecpancaltzin, ka mea i hoʻopūʻiwa ʻia e ka effluvia o ka inu, ua male ʻo ia iā ia. Wahi a kekahi poʻe ʻo ka mea i ʻike i ka pulque a lilo i ʻona mua loa he opossum ia.
Ua inu ʻia ʻo Pulque e nā aliʻi hanohano a me nā kāhuna e hoʻolauleʻa ai i nā lanakila nui a i ʻole nā lā nui hoʻomana haipule. Ua kaupalena wale ʻia kona ʻai ʻana i nā ʻelemākule, nā wahine lactating, nā luna a me nā kāhuna, ʻoiai no ka poʻe wale nō i kekahi mau hoʻolauleʻa.
Ma hope o ka naʻi aupuni ʻaʻohe kānāwai e kāohi ana i ka hoʻohana ʻana o ka pulque, a aia a hiki i ka makahiki 1672 i hoʻomaka ke aupuni o ka luna aupuni e hoʻoponopono iā ia.
E hoʻomaka ana i nā makahiki 1920, ua hoʻāʻo ke aupuni e hoʻopau i ka pulque. I ka wā o ka pelekikena o Lázaro Cárdenas aia he mau kūʻē anti-ʻona i hoʻāʻo e hōʻoki loa iā ia.
"I kēia lā ʻaʻole kēia he mea hoʻomakeʻaka hou," hoʻopau ʻo Don Pazcasio. Hana ʻia nā chestnuts a me nā acocote i kēia lā me ka fiberglass, a aia kekahi e makemake nei e hoʻouna i nā pūpū kēpau. I nā mokuʻāina hui pū ʻia. ʻLelo lākou ua kapa ʻia lākou he 'nectar mai Apan', akā ʻo ka ʻoiaʻiʻo ke ʻono nei e like me nā mea āpau, koe ka pulque! I kekahi manawa makemake ka poʻe mākaʻikaʻi e hoʻāʻo, akā paʻakikī loa iā lākou e ʻike i kahi maikaʻi maikaʻi. Ke nalowale nei ka ʻoihana pulque! Makemake wau e hana ke aupuni i kekahi mea i mea e loaʻa hou ai ka hanohano o ka pulque, kahi inu o ia ʻano maikaʻi a loaʻa ka boom i loaʻa i ka tequila i kēia lā a puni ka honua. Ua like ka maguey me ke aʻa o ko mākou ʻāina a me ka pulque i kona koko, kahi koko e hoʻomau e hānai iā mākou. "
