ʻO ka hohonu o Sinforosa ka 1 830 m ma kāna wahi i kapa ʻia ʻo Cumbres de Huérachi, a ma lalo e holo ana ka Río Verde, ke kahawai nui ʻo Río Fuerte.
ʻO ka hohonu o Sinforosa ka 1 830 m ma kāna wahi i kapa ʻia ʻo Cumbres de Huérachi, a ma kona kahe e holo ana ka muliwai ʻo Verde, ke kahawai ʻoi loa o ka muliwai Fuerte.
Ke lohe mākou e pili ana i nā awawa a i ʻole nā kahawai ma ka Sierra Tarahumara, hiki koke i ka noʻonoʻo ka Copper Canyon kaulana; Eia nō naʻe, ma kēia māhele he mau awawa ʻē aʻe a ʻaʻole ʻo ka Copper Canyon kahi hohonu, a kupaianaha paha. Hāʻawi ʻia kēlā mau hanohano me nā canyons ʻē aʻe.
Mai kuʻu manaʻo, ʻo kekahi o nā mea kamahaʻo loa i kēia pae mauna holoʻokoʻa ʻo ke kahawai ʻo Sinforosa liʻiliʻi i ʻike ʻia, kokoke i ke kaona ʻo Guachochi. ʻO Mrs. Bernarda Holguín, kahi mea hoʻolaha kaulana o nā lawelawe mākaʻikaʻi ma ia wahi, ua kapa pololei ʻia " ka mōʻīwahine o nā kahawai ”. ʻO ka manawa mua aʻu i nānā aku ai, mai kāna kuanaʻike ma Cumbres de Sinforosa, ua kahaha nui wau i ka ʻike maikaʻi a me ka hohonu o kona ʻāina, ʻaʻohe mea like i nā mea āpau aʻu i ʻike ai ma nā kuahiwi a hiki i kēlā manawa. ʻO ka ʻāpana o ka mea kupaianaha e pili ana i kona ʻano ʻāina he ʻiki loa ia e pili ana i kona hohonu, ʻo ia ke kumu e kū ai i waho a puni ka honua. ʻO ka hohonu o Sinforosa ka 1 830 m ma kāna wahi i kapa ʻia ʻo Cumbres de Huérachi, a ma kona kahe e holo ana ka muliwai ʻo Verde, ke kahawai ʻoi loa o ka muliwai Fuerte.
Ma hope ua loaʻa iaʻu ka manawa kūpono e komo i ka Sinforosa ma o kāna mau ʻaoʻao ʻokoʻa. ʻO kekahi o nā ala nani loa e komo ai i kēia awāwa ma o Cumbres de Sinforosa, mai kahi e hoʻomaka ai kahi ala e iho i lalo e hana ana i nā pali he nui ma waena o kahi e hoʻokū nei i nā paia kū. Ma kahi o 6 km wale nō, i uhi ʻia ma kahi o 4 mau hola, iho ʻoe mai ka ulu lāʻau pine a ʻoka o kahi ʻāina semi-arid a semitropical ma lalo o ke awāwa. E iho ana ke ala ma waena o nā kahawai hohonu a hala aʻe ma kahi o nā moʻo wai ʻole Rosalinda i ʻike ʻole ʻia, nona ka wai nui loa he 80 m a me kekahi o nā wailele maikaʻi loa o ka ʻāina.
ʻO ka mea i pīhoihoi iaʻu i ka manawa mua aʻu i iho ai i kēia ala ʻo ia e ʻike, ma lalo o kahi puʻu pōhaku, ka hale liʻiliʻi a me ka hale pōhaku o kahi ʻohana Tarahumara, a ʻoiai e noho ana i kahi wahi mamao loa, he ʻike maikaʻi kā lākou i ke awāwa. . ʻO ka hoʻokaʻawale loa kahi a Tarahumara e noho nei e kū nei.
I kekahi manawa ʻē aʻe, iho wau i waena ma Baqueachi, kokoke i Cumbres de Huérachi; ma aneʻi e ʻike ʻia kahi canyon ʻaoʻao i uhi ʻia me nā mea kanu he nui kahi e hui ai nā pine me nā pitaya a me nā lāʻau fiku ahiu, nā ʻohe a me nā lāʻau ʻohe. He ululāʻau pīhoihoi ia, ma muli o kona hiki ʻole, mālama ʻia kekahi mau pine a me nā táscates i ʻoi aku ma mua o 40 m kiʻekiʻe, kahi mea i ʻike ʻole ʻia ma nā kuahiwi. Ma waena o nā mea kanu āpau e holo nei kahi kahawai maikaʻi loa i loaʻa nā loko wai nani, nā awāwa a me nā wailele liʻiliʻi, nona ke ʻano hoihoi, me ke kanalua ʻole, ʻo Piedra Agujerada, ʻoiai ke kahe o ke kahawai e hele i loko o kahi lua i kahi pōhaku nui a hoʻi koke ma lalo i ke ʻano o kahi wailele nani ma kahi o 5 m o ka hāʻule, ma loko o kahi lua liʻiliʻi e hoʻopuni ʻia e nā mea kanu.
E hoʻomaka kekahi ala hoihoi i ka Cumbres de Huérachi, ʻoiai ke hōʻike nei i kekahi o nā hiʻohiʻona nui loa o Sinforosa. ʻO ia nō ke ala e loaʻa ai ka pā kaulike nui ʻole o ka pae mauna holoʻokoʻa i kahi mamao loa: ma 9 km ʻoe e iho ai 1 830 m, ka ʻaoʻao hohonu o kēia awāwa. Hele ʻoe ma kēia ala hele wāwae no 6 a i ʻole 7 mau hola a hiki i kou hōʻea ʻana i ke kaiāulu o Huérachi, ma ke kapa o ka muliwai ʻo Verde, kahi e ulu ai nā māla o nā mango, nā papaya a me nā maiʻa.
Aia nā ala ʻokoʻa kahi e hiki ai iā ʻoe ke iho i lalo i ka muliwai, ma ka ʻaoʻao Guarochi a ma ka ʻaoʻao o "La otra sierra" (e like me kā ka poʻe o Guachochi i kapa ai ma ke kapa kūlike o ke awāwa); nani lākou a kupaianaha hoʻi.
MA KA LOA O KA CANYON
Me ke kanalua ʻole, ʻo ka mea nui loa e hele wāwae i ke awāwa mai lalo, e hāhai ana i ka holo o ka muliwai ʻo Verde. Kakaʻikahi loa i hana i kēia huakaʻi, a me ke kanalua ʻole ʻo ia kekahi o nā ala nani loa.
Mai ke kenekulia 18, me ke komo ʻana o nā mikionali i kēia ʻāina, ua ʻike ʻia kēia awawa e ka inoa ʻo Sinforosa. ʻO ka moʻolelo kahiko loa i loaʻa iaʻu e pili ana i ka huakaʻi ʻana ma kēia kahawai i loko o ka puke ʻo El México Desconocido e ka mea huakaʻi Norewai ʻo Carl Lumholtz, nāna i ʻimi 100 mau makahiki i hala, e iho ana paha mai Cumbres de Sinforosa a haʻalele i Santa Ana a me San Miguel. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Lumholtz ma ke ʻano ʻo San Carlos, a he ʻekolu pule ka lōʻihi o kēia kaʻao.
Ma hope o Lumholtz ʻike wale wau i ka moʻolelo o kekahi mau hōʻole hou loa. I ka makahiki 1985 ua iho mai ʻo Carlos Rangel mai "ke sierra ʻē aʻe" e hoʻomaka ana ma Baborigame a haʻalele iā Cumbres de Huérachi; Ua hele wale ʻo Carlos i ke awāwa. I ka makahiki 1986 ua hoʻāʻo ka American Richar Fisher a me ʻelua mau kānaka ʻē aʻe e hele i kēlā ʻaoʻao ʻaoʻao o Sinforosa ma ke kaola akā ʻaʻole i holo pono; Minamina, i kāna moʻolelo, ʻaʻole hōʻike ʻo Fisher i kahi i hoʻomaka ai kāna huakaʻi a i kahi i hoʻomaka ai.
Ma hope, i ka 1995, ua hele wāwae nā lālā o ka Speleology Group mai Cuauhtémoc City, Chihuahua, no ʻekolu mau lā ma lalo o ke awāwa, e iho ana ma waena o Cumbres de Sinforosa a haʻalele iā San Rafael. Ma waho aʻe o kēia, ua aʻo wau ma kahi o ʻelua mau keʻa ʻē aʻe a nā hui haole i hana ai ma ka muliwai, akā ʻaʻohe palapala o kā lākou huakaʻi.
Ma loko o ka hebedoma o Mei 5 a 11, 1996, ʻo Carlos Rangel a me aʻu, me ʻelua mau alakaʻi maikaʻi loa o ka ʻāina, ʻo Luis Holguín lāua ʻo Rayo Bustillos, i huakaʻi i 70 km ma loko o ka ʻāpiki loa o Sinforosa, e iho ana ma waena o Cumbres. mai Barbechitos a haʻalele ma o Cumbres de Huérachi.
I ka lā mua ua hiki mākou i ka muliwai ʻo Verde e iho ana i ke ala wili o Barbechitos, kaumaha loa. Loaʻa iā mākou kahi pā nui e noho ʻia e ka Tarahumara. E ʻauʻau mākou i ka muliwai a nānā i kekahi mau wai māmā, i kapa ʻia he tapestes, i kūkulu ʻia e ka Tarahumara e lawaiʻa ai, no ka mea, nui ka iʻa, mojarra a me matalote i kēlā wahi. Ua ʻike kekahi mākou i kahi ʻano o ka ʻohe a lākou i hoʻohana ai no ka lawaiʻa ʻana. ʻO ka mea i pūʻiwa iaʻu ʻo ka wehewehe ʻana o Lumholtz i kēia ʻano lawaiʻa like me ka Tarahumara; A laila ua manaʻo wau e komo ana mākou i kahi honua i loli ʻole i nā makahiki he haneli i hala.
I nā lā aʻe ua hele wāwae mākou ma waena o nā paia kaona, ma hope o ke kahawai o ka muliwai, ma waena o ke ao o nā pōhaku o nā nui āpau. Hele mākou i ka muliwai me ka wai a hiki i kā mākou umauma a pono mākou e lele ma waena o nā pōhaku i nā manawa he nui. Ua kaumaha loa ka hele wāwae me ka wela ikaika i ʻike ʻia i kēlā kau (ʻo ka nui loa o ka moʻolelo he 43ºC i ka malu. Eia nō naʻe, ua hauʻoli mākou i kekahi o nā ala kamahaʻo loa o sierra a puni a ma Mexico paha, i hoʻopuni ʻia e nā paia pōhaku nunui ma luna o ke awelika o ke kiʻekiʻena, a me nā loko wai maikaʻi a me nā wahi a ka muliwai a me ke awāwa i hāʻawi mai ai iā mākou.
NA WAHI NANI NUI
ʻO kekahi o lākou ka pūnaewele kahi e hoʻohui ai ka muliwai ʻo Guachochi i ka muliwai ʻo Verde. Ma kahi kokoke nā wahi neoneo o ka hānai holoholona Sinforosa kahiko, ka mea nāna i hāʻawi i kēia awawa i kona inoa, a me kahi alahaka kuapo e hiki ai i nā poʻe ke hele i kēlā ʻaoʻao ke piʻi aʻe ka muliwai.
Ma hope, ma kahi i kapa ʻia ʻo Epachuchi, ua hui mākou i kahi ʻohana o Tarahumara i iho mai "nā sierra ʻē aʻe" e hōʻiliʻili i nā pitaya. Ua haʻi mai kekahi iā mākou e hele mākou i ʻelua mau lā i Huérachi; Eia naʻe, e like me kaʻu i ʻike ai i nā chabochis (e like me kā Tarahumara e haʻi ai iā mākou ʻo ka poʻe ʻaʻole) e hoʻolimalima i ʻekolu mau manawa ke hele lākou i nā wahi āpau i nā kuahiwi, ua helu wau e hana mākou i ʻeono mau lā iā Huérachi, a pēlā nō . Aia kēia mau Tarahumara ma lalo o ke awāwa no kekahi mau pule a ʻo kā lākou ukana wale nō he ʻeke pinol, nā mea āpau a lākou e pono ai mai ke ʻano maoli: ka meaʻai, ka lumi, ka wai, a pēlā aku. Ua ʻano ʻē wau me kā mākou mau ʻūlū i kaupaona ʻia ma kahi o 22 kilo kēlā me kēia.
Manaʻo ka Tarahumara hāʻawi ke kūlohelohe iā lākou no ka mea he mea liʻiliʻi kā ke Akua, ʻoiai ua ʻaihue ka Diabolō i ke koena. Akā naʻe kaʻana like ke Akua me lākou; No kēia kumu, i ka wā a ke Tarahumara i kono ai iā mākou mai kāna pinole, ma mua o ka inu ʻana i ka inu mua, ua kaʻana like ʻo ia me ke Akua, ke kīloi nei i kahi pinole liʻiliʻi i kēlā me kēia kikoʻī nui, no ka mea ua pōloli pū ʻo Tata Dios a pono mākou e kaʻana like i nā mea āna e hāʻawi ai. .
Ma kahi a mākou e bapetizo ai me ka inoa o ke Kihi Nui, huli ka muliwai ʻo Verde i kanaiwa kekelē a hana i kahi ākea ākea. Ma laila, e kahe ana nā kahawai ʻaoʻao ʻelua ma waena o nā awāwa kupaianaha; aia kekahi pūawai maikaʻi kahi i hōʻoluʻolu ai iā mākou iho. Ma kahi kokoke i kēia pūnaewele ʻike mākou i kahi ana kahi e noho ai ʻo Tarahumara; He metate nui kona, a ma waho aia kahi "coscomate"-kahi hale papaʻa a lākou e hana ai me ka pōhaku a me ka lepo- a me nā koena o kahi a lākou e hana ai i ka tatemado mezcal, a lākou e hoʻomākaukau ai ma ka kuke ʻana i ka puʻuwai o kekahi ʻano agave a he meaʻai nui ia waiwai. Ma mua o ke Kihi Nui ua hala mākou i kahi o nā pōhaku nui a ʻike mākou i kahi ala ma waena o nā lua, he mau ala liʻiliʻi ia e maʻalahi ai ka hele ʻana, no ka mea i kekahi mau manawa ua aneane 100 m a ua kahe ka wai o ka muliwai ma waena o lākou.
Ma ke ala he ʻohana Tarahumara i kanu i ka chili ma kapa o ka muliwai a lawaiʻa. Lawaiʻa lākou i ka iʻa me kahi agave a lākou i kapa aku ai he amole, ke aʻa o kahi mea kanu e hoʻokuʻu i kahi mea i loko o ka wai e hoʻomāinoino i nā iʻa a maʻalahi e hopu iā lākou. Ma kekahi kaula lākou i kau ʻia ai kekahi mau iʻa i hāmama a hāmama ʻole ʻia e hoʻomaloʻo ai.
ʻO ka huina o ke kahawai ʻo San Rafael me ka muliwai ʻo Verde he nani loa; Aia kekahi ulu lāʻau nui ma laila, ʻo ka mea nui loa aʻu i ʻike ai ma Chihuahua, a ke hana nei ke kahawai i kahi wailele 3 m ma mua pono o ka hui ʻana me ka muliwai ʻo Verde. Nui pū nā alders, popla, ulana, guamúchiles a me nā ʻohe; hoʻopuni ʻia a puni i nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua e nā kilomika pā kū palena o ke kahawai.
Kahi kahi i hana ka muliwai i kahi meander nui e huli i ka 180º huli, kapa mākou iā ia ʻo La Herradura. Ma ʻaneʻi e hui ai nā awāwa kahaha nui loa ʻelua ma muli o ka pani a kū pono o ko lākou mau paia, a me nā kukui o ka napoʻo ʻana o ka lā, wanana ʻia nā hihiʻo i loaʻa iaʻu he mea kupanaha. Ma La Herradura hoʻomoana mākou ma kahi kokoke i kahi kiʻo wai maikaʻi a i ke komo ʻana o ka pō ua ʻike wau i ka lele ʻana o nā ʻōpeʻapeʻa ma ka wai e hopu ana i nā makika a me nā mea kolo ʻē aʻe. ʻO ka hiʻohiʻona i loko o mākou e bapetizo ʻia ai ua pīhoihoi wau, ua hoʻopuni ʻia mākou e kahi honua o nā paia kū i waena o nā huahana pōhaku nunui o nā hāʻule o ka millenary.
ʻO ke kahe nui wale nō e iho i kēia ʻāpana o "the sierra ʻē aʻe" ʻo ia ka muliwai Loera, e iho mai ana mai Nabogame, kahi kaiāulu kokoke i Guadalupe a me Calvo. Kupaianaha ka hui ʻana o kēia me ka Green, ʻoiai hui pū ʻia nā awawa nui ʻelua a hana i nā loko nui e pono e hele i ka ʻauʻau ʻana. Nani ka pūnaewele a he ʻōlelo mua ia ma mua o ka hiki ʻana i ke kaiāulu ʻo Huérachi. Ke hele nei mākou i Loera, hoʻomoana mākou ma ka wāwae o ka pōhaku hoʻokau o Tarahuito, kahi pali pōhaku e piʻi ana i kahi mau haneli mau mika ma waena o ke awāwa. Aia ia, ke kali nei no ka poʻe piʻi.
Ma hope loa ua hōʻea mākou i Huérachi, kahi kaiāulu wale nō i kū ma ka ʻaoʻao pali o ke awāwa ʻo Sinforosa, ʻoiai i kēia manawa ua haʻalele pono ʻia ia a ʻehā wale nō poʻe e noho ana ma laila, ʻekolu o lākou he poʻe hana o ka Federal Electric Commission, i kēlā me kēia lā hana lākou i nā ana ma ka muliwai a hele i ke kahua meteorological. Ua hoʻoholo ka poʻe e noho ana ma kēia wahi e neʻe i Cumbres de Huérachi, kokoke ʻelua mau mile i ke awāwa, no ka wela o ke aniau a me kahi kaʻawale. I kēia manawa, hoʻopuni ʻia ko lākou mau hale liʻiliʻi e nā māla nani kahi e nui ai nā papaya, maiʻa, ʻalani, lemona, manga a me nā avocado.
Haʻalele mākou i ke awāwa ma ke ala e hele aku ai i Cumbres de Huérachi, ʻo ia ka pali nui loa o ka mauna kuahiwi, inā piʻi ʻoe i ka hohonu o ke awāwa, ʻo Sinforosa, he kulu ʻaneʻane kokoke i 2 km, ka piʻi Kaumaha, hana mākou iā ia ma kahi o 7 mau hola e pili ana me nā haʻihaʻi; Eia naʻe, ʻike ʻia nā hiʻohiʻona ʻāina no ka luhi.
I ka manawa aʻu i heluhelu hou ai i ka puke El México Desconocido na Lumholtz, kikoʻī i ka ʻāpana āna i wehewehe ai i kā Sinforosa huakaʻi he 100 mau makahiki i hala aku nei, ua like ka hopena me ka like ʻole o nā mea āpau, ʻaʻole i loli ke awāwa i kēlā mau makahiki i koe: eia nō naʻe nā Tarahumara me kā lākou mau hana like a noho like, i ka honua poina. ʻAneʻane nā mea āpau a Lumholtz e wehewehe ai aʻu i ʻike ai. Hiki iā ia ke hoʻi i ka mākaʻikaʻi i ke awāwa i kēia mau lā a ʻike ʻole i ka hala o ka manawa.
